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#11
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Whta I was talking about was regular light sand topdressing applications (done monthly or so) in loamy soils. If you compared that to regular light compost applications, you would get more benefit out of the sand. |
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#12
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![]() When clay is too heavy I like to use a sandy compost after aerating... Your biggest advantage will be to build soil structure of course and pay attention to how much sand is adding into areas with sidewalks, houses and hardscape, becuz there is a big difference betwen sanding putting greens and residential lawns...
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* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#13
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Above Par,
One of the best things to do in our area is to aerate in the fall and apply Pelletized Gypsum. Gypsum breaks down clay over time. Also by adding the Gypsum in the fall, it will work into the aerated plug holes and work even better by going through the freeze/thaw cycles of winter and then into spring. If you aerate in the spring and apply gypsum, would recommend topdressing with loam or sandy compost. You really do not want those aerated holes exposed when we get in June, that will only speed up the evaporation of the soil moisture. |
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#14
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There are numerous benefits to topdressing with compost rather than sand, even on sports turf, do your research. There is absolutely no need to manage resi/com turf in the same manner as sports turf. If you need to level the surface use a sand & compost or loam and compost, providing you aren't creating a substantial layer.
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#15
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Apply gypsum if you have determined a need for it via a soil test. Also it doesn't break down clay, it helps to flocculate it in some cases.
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#16
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When I working down south(Bama, Florida) we would bring in sandy loam to top dress about the time the warm season grasses were waking up from winter. A thin layer, less than 1/4 inch in any areas that were tracked or just low. After a few cuts, the yard was mostly level and no eveidence that was done. Here, spring growth is crazy and just dont see much of that happening here. Golf Courses, yes, but residental and commercial, no. Complete yard renovations I see from time to time. |
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#17
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Gypsum does little to nothing for pH adjustment. If anything, you will see a decrease in pH, not an increase. Not a good choice for acidic soils. It also will not help a mechanically (physically) compacted soil. Understand what your amendments will do to the soil before you apply them as you can easily do more damage than good.
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#18
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No, he doesn't. He either asks more questions or tells YOU need to inform or educate yourself. It's a never ending circular discussion if you will look at his threads.
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#19
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Posted via Mobile Device |
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#20
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