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  #121  
Old 01-25-2013, 10:27 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Location: FL
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Thanks Darryl, teck and bshus. I have been taking plenty of pictures. It also helps to try and keep the parts on the donor mower until the are absolutely needed. I finally got a chance to work on it again tonight. The drive idler assembly is complete now. I have also removed one of the fuel tanks from the donor. You can see how badly bent the fuel tank bracket is on the donor. I am preparing a burned bracket. There is also a pic where you can see the overall states of the donor mower and the mower being rebuilt.
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Last edited by pjm123a; 01-25-2013 at 10:28 PM. Reason: typo
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  #122  
Old 01-27-2013, 07:20 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Got to spend most of the day today working on the mower and have made lots of progress. Bolted down the pumps and re-installed the pump pulleys and hubs. Followed Richard Martin's advice and used anti-seize, Moved one of the fuel tank brackets and the hour meter. I thought more parts on the donor would be bent. It turned out that everything support the fuel tank was OK except the frame piece itself see pic). If that were to be straightened that whole side of the donor would actually be OK. As I am getting deeper into the donor I see that it is bent in 3 places. I might consult a welder to see if the donor frame is possible to save (and worth it).
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  #123  
Old 01-27-2013, 07:30 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Also today instead of a chassis sitting up on cinder blocks, I now have a rolling chassis. Was a really nice day today in my neck of the woods so I rolled it outside to work on. Here are a few pics from some different angles.
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  #124  
Old 01-27-2013, 07:43 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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The final accomplishment for the day was to get the engine moved to it's new home! Some pics showing the puller getting the main engine pulley off. Next pic shows the ground wiring that had to be disconnected. Third pic is the mowers right after having moved the engine. The last pic shows the mower with the engine all bolted down and in place. I used blue loctite on the engine mounting bolts. Next trick is to move the wiring harness and then try to get the engine running in it's new home. For now, its Miller time!
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  #125  
Old 01-27-2013, 08:37 PM
laman laman is online now
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Looking great..
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  #126  
Old 01-28-2013, 07:42 AM
dboyd351 dboyd351 is offline
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I think a lot of people that saw the beginning of this thread wouldn't believe where you are now! Great job.
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  #127  
Old 01-30-2013, 09:02 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Thank you laman and dboyd (David). Nice to hear your comments. I am by no means done but I am gratified that I have come this far. A lot of what I have done so far though is the grunt work. Now I really need to continue with a bit more finesse and thought. I also need to consider the sub-systems that make this thing run. Attached are 3 pics. You can see the fuel tanks have been added and the wiring harness is now installed. The plastic on the connectors is not in best shape. When I am all done and satisfied things are all OK with the safety switches I will either replace the connectors or at least wrap them in electrical tape.

I have not yet hooked up the hyrdo lines. I have also not yet connected the main pulley at the bottom of the engine and the electric clutch. My next task and what is giving me some frustration is getting the engine running in it's new home. Note I said running not started. This is my current road-block. The engine turns over fine. If I externally give it a fuel source (pour a little gas into the carb or spray some starter fluid), it will immediately start and run for a few seconds. Obviously I have a fuel delivery problem. I have cleaned the carb to within an inch of it's life and replaced some gaskets. Along the way the carb choke linkage retainer broke and I have a generic one on order. I do not however think this should keep the engine from running. It should run, just run badly. When the carb is on the engine, if I take off the bowl I find it is full of fuel. There is fuel getting into the carb. Apparently though it is not getting out of the carb and into the intake. I would say this is the classic symptom of a clogged jet. The problem is I can't see any clogs. They look clear and I can blow air through them. The model carb is a Nikki 4818. I am going to stare at some parts diagram for a while. It seems that Kawi has used a couple of different flavors of the nikki on the FH601V. I am wondering if there was a problem along the way somewhere that one of the newer styles solved that I don't know about. Anyway that is where I am. Until I can get this thing to run reliably there is not much point in moving on. Is there a way to test for a clogged jet? Any thoughts or suggestions are most welcome.
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  #128  
Old 01-30-2013, 09:24 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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You didn't mention the fuel solenoid.....you have it wired and working?
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  #129  
Old 01-30-2013, 09:32 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Hi ed2. It is connected. I don't know for sure that it is working. I am doing some research to see how to test it. I thought however that the solenoid is used to prevent back-firing at engine shutdown. I did not think it would prevent the engine from starting and running even if it was disconnected. Are you saying that it could be the culprit?
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  #130  
Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 PM
dboyd351 dboyd351 is offline
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Don't want to rain on your parade, but I thought I'd offer a suggestion.
Look at this link:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...buretor&_rdc=1

Several carbs for your model of engine, running from $40 to $125.

Not sure if the different ones are interchangeable, but if you could buy one of these, bolt it on and get her running, it might help keep the project moving forward for a relatively minimal investment.

There is a reason many small engine repair shops will often just bolt on a new carb instead of messing with the repair kit.

Either way, good luck!
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