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  #31  
Old 01-29-2013, 11:03 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,793
If you are going to till,,, then that is the best time to add your micro-nutrients, lime and compost... Unless there is a chance of transferring disease organisms into your soil from the current lawn debris into your soil, it is generally best to incorporate ALL available OM into your soil...

Eventually, lawn debris enhances SOM(Soil Organic Matter) and CEC(Cation Exchange Capacity)...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #32  
Old 01-29-2013, 01:22 PM
stackz stackz is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: charleston, sc
Posts: 17
ok so just leave whatever is there, there.

should I weed whack to soil level first so that whatever is currently growing will be severely damaged and help it get outcompeted by the new grass seed?

also, where do I get the micronutrients that the test results posted on page 3 say I need? I just dont see bags of manganese and copper at the store...or even at the nurseries that have store fronts.
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  #33  
Old 01-29-2013, 04:04 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,793
I'm not sure what material you are trying to severely hinder, by weed whacking, but any lawns that are tilled up around here, the biggest problem is always the clumps of roots... they make for bumpy seed beds that get bumpier when they 'settle' and if they are undesirable they will grow back and create competition that way... busting up the tops may very well solve some of that problem so it doesn't hurt to do so,,, IMO..

I don't worry about micros so much for cool-season grasses as it has never been an issue for anyone in the business, to my knowledge... a decent soil with adequate SOM and water/air ratio will allow for the root hairs and their symbiotic microbes to get most of the nutrients the plant needs from the soil, if not all of it...

Keeping the nutrients on your turf is best done by mulching the clippings back onto the lawn... I'm not sure how you think about that, but it is a good idea to recycle nutrients that way...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #34  
Old 02-01-2013, 02:11 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston-Salem NC
Posts: 1,639
In your sandy soil it won't hurt to add the micro's.

http://www.kbadamsturf.com.au/scotts...ackage)_22.7kg

$60 for a 55 Lb. bag. This is something you only have to think about every 5 year's or so. But if you don't do it at all, you probably won't notice it.

Don't worry about those daffodil's, the foliage and flower's are frost-proof, just don't cut the old foliage off, let it rot away naturally or you won't have flower's next year.

I would spray everything with a 2% roundup solution one week prior to planting.

Last edited by agrostis; 02-01-2013 at 02:17 PM.
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