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  #21  
Old 02-28-2013, 08:28 PM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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If the top sheave has a set screw, it will be fine. As for the taper lock, you should have a space between the sheave and the hub. If you over tighten it, it's trash. Didn't it come with a torque spec?
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  #22  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:40 PM
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banjoman banjoman is offline
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I looked in my box and it did not come with any torque specs. The transmission pulley has a set screw, I knocked it all the way to the top of the shaft and tightened the screw up. The way the blade pulley works is a bad design to me, I don't understand why they cant make the pulley in one piece. The bolts that came with the hub were cheap, I broke one while tightening the hub down the first time. I had it positioned wrong, so I had to beat the pulley off the hub to re-position it. I had to beat the crap out of the hub to get it back on the shaft and I think I might of bent one side of the hub a little bit. I hit them both quite a bit, but I don't think they are damaged beyond use. There are no cracks anywhere. Does that look like the correct position on the shaft for the blade pulley in the picture on my previous post?
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  #23  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:52 PM
ricky86 ricky86 is offline
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From a design aspect, they are pure genius. They NEVER loosen if installed correctly. The other 2 holes in the hub are for hub removal. You most likely overtightened the bolt, thus breaking them. Placement of the pulleys has to do with belt alignment. Do a little research on taper loc hubs and sheaves. Browning QD series. You will run into them again.
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