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  #11  
Old 03-08-2013, 03:54 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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Modern ceramic materials. AutoZone calls them C Max and have a lifetime warranty. I've used them on trucks and high perf autos with great results.
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  #12  
Old 03-08-2013, 04:02 PM
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grandview (2006) grandview (2006) is offline
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Quote:
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Is that Ur own purchase and install price ? Garages prolly want more ?
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  #13  
Old 03-08-2013, 05:48 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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brakes pads... all around.

Advance auto has wagners that have a one time replacement on commercial trucks 55 for the front 45 for the rear last about two years driving 15k a year 11 of which is towing 7k 75 properties a season and the rest is plowing.

When i rotate my tires i check my brakes and grease the pins every other time using permatex extreme brake lube.
This particular truck is an 03 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 with 7.3
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  #14  
Old 03-08-2013, 05:55 PM
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Doing disc brake isn't hard. The only part you can't do your self is machine the rotors. Once you get the wright tool for removing the pins. Other handy tools are one man bleeder kit and tool to press the caliper piston back.
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  #15  
Old 03-08-2013, 06:07 PM
mlavin73 mlavin73 is offline
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You're lucky you didn't need rotors as well. I have an 06 Ford F250 and when they were replacing my exhaust manifolds under warranty they said I needed brakes and rotors all the way around (approx 42K on the truck). In speaking with the mechanic he said the metals we use nowadays aren't as good as they use to be, plus in NJ they are constantly spraying brine solution on the roads and salting during the storms. Eats that metal up.
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  #16  
Old 03-08-2013, 06:41 PM
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dstifel dstifel is online now
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brakes pads... all around.

Should be able to do them urself take the tire off and two more bolts. I've done my own since I started driving when I was 14. Can do a whole truck in under an hour.
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:43 PM
Roger Roger is offline
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I have a 2003 F250, with about 47K miles. It has had two brake replacements, including rotors. In one case, the rotor broke, tore up the brake caliper, hoses, etc.

The second brake job was at about 15K more miles after the first. I only run about 5K per year, pulling a single axle, 3,000 GVW trailer. The problem for me was pretty simple. It sits outside, and I don't drive it hardly at all in the Winter. But, even on Spring, Summer and Fall days, it doesn't go far. My mowing routes are very close to my house, and two of those days, the full work day is clustered in one neighborhood.

The problem is the rotors get a rust from sitting. The rotors pit, making the surface rough. A rough rotor surface wears off the pads quickly. The rough pads further wear on the cast iron rotors. Most days, I don't drive it hard enough to even get the brakes warm, burning off moisture that makes the rust. There is little question about the rust -- I see it through the wheel often.

Brakes for this pickup, over the 9 years, and 47K miles, have been VERY expensive. There are penalties for driving hard and far, but there are also penalties for driving easy, slow and short distances.

I think the last brake job was about $700, full pads, new rotors (front ones are about $170 each). I chose not to do the work myself because the date was August, and I was full bore working. I was able to get myself, trailer, equipment, to an area where I could work all day, without needing the pickup.
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstifel View Post
Should be able to do them urself take the tire off and two more bolts. I've done my own since I started driving when I was 14. Can do a whole truck in under an hour.
Technically you need to machine the rotors if for no other reason than to deglaze the surface. I've never seen a rotor or drum that wasn't slightly out of true. Modern rotors sometimes have very little or no minimum machined thickness which means the must be replaced when runout exceeds a specified limit.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2013, 10:57 PM
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dstifel dstifel is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot Services View Post
Technically you need to machine the rotors if for no other reason than to deglaze the surface. I've never seen a rotor or drum that wasn't slightly out of true. Modern rotors sometimes have very little or no minimum machined thickness which means the must be replaced when runout exceeds a specified limit.
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I have found that just replacing rotors unless tons of unusual wear i can get away with doing it every other time. However i run a small operation and do not pull near the weight and equipment that you guys do so i imagine that you are in a different boat then me. However i can still pull everything off get it re machined and put back together in a lot cheaper then 600$ even if i pay myself my hourly rate of 40$ an hour i work to reach.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2013, 11:59 PM
herler herler is offline
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One thing I learned that greatly increases life expectancy of the brake pads (not to mention the truck as well) is to learn to drive with load.

Read: Gentle acceleration and Stop anticipation.

Another way to sum it up, is drive like an old lady.
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