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  #21  
Old 03-16-2013, 08:21 PM
windflower windflower is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: wilmington nc
Posts: 697
It is tick seed. Don't let the plant go to seed. They are a pain to remove. The brush killer (triclopyr) will be fine if you don't over apply it. Page 4 http://www.bayeradvanced.com/tree-sh...ler-plus/sizes says it may cause temporary yellowing. I've never had that happen... yet. If you have anything that is labeled for dandelions that will work as well. The two plants are both in the same family.
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  #22  
Old 03-16-2013, 09:09 PM
windflower windflower is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: wilmington nc
Posts: 697
Plant # 2 is bedstraw. Wish I knew how to get rid of it.http://www.google.com/search?q=bedst...BCAjrcUp8-M%3A
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  #23  
Old 03-18-2013, 09:51 PM
monk707 monk707 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by windflower View Post
It is tick seed. Don't let the plant go to seed. They are a pain to remove. The brush killer (triclopyr) will be fine if you don't over apply it. Page 4 http://www.bayeradvanced.com/tree-sh...ler-plus/sizes says it may cause temporary yellowing. I've never had that happen... yet. If you have anything that is labeled for dandelions that will work as well. The two plants are both in the same family.

Thanks for the reply. I applied the brush killer this weekend and will see what happens. I only applied to one quadrant of the yard (not connected to other areas of yard) so if it kills everything I'm ok. Its like 70% infested. I'm not sure if the one is tick seed - I looked at some pictures online and these are very low growing items. Unless they just take a long time to get that tall.

Was pulling some of them out this weekend and some look like mini bonzai trees!! The stanrgest things growing out there. I'm convinced there are like a dozen different ones.
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  #24  
Old 03-18-2013, 11:37 PM
herler herler is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3,389
Judging by the three pages of posts this isn't going to be over anytime soon, may I suggest... Reading the labels on any and all herbicides, pesticides, fertilizers, seeds, and most anything that you are about to put down, read the label and the application statement, read how to put it down, when, what it affects and what its side effects are... In short, learn what you are doing while you are doing it, that will at least help keep the learning curve down to the essentials, and believe me it's still plenty long so you won't get bored anytime soon, please read that and many of the other things...

As a rule, when two statements contradict themselves, it is generally safe to ignore that until further evidence presents itself.
As a rule, when the majority of statements lean in one direction, that tends to be the truth.

One thing I can tell you...
Weed killer and grass seed interfere with each other, specifically the weed killer will keep grass seed from germinating.
You can try it like I used to do, and get smart and realize the interference only lasts 30 days and ...
You know, throw one down now and then if I wait 30 days I can put the other one down, yeah that's it!
Until you make a mistake, anyway.

Or you can do what I learned to do in my later years.
Fight Weeds in the Spring.
Seed in the Fall.
No more interference.

Last but not least, start learning how to cut your grass high.
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:47 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Eastern KS
Posts: 2,713
I could be mistaken, but many of your sproutlings could indeed be tree seedlings.

Contact your local extension office as to a timetable for YOUR area with regards to WHEN to apply pre-emergents...and HOW OFTEN to do so.

And like herler said, learn to cut your turf TALL...as a tall/thick lawn is one of your best defenses against weeds.
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2013, 10:39 PM
monk707 monk707 is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valk View Post
I could be mistaken, but many of your sproutlings could indeed be tree seedlings.

Contact your local extension office as to a timetable for YOUR area with regards to WHEN to apply pre-emergents...and HOW OFTEN to do so.

And like herler said, learn to cut your turf TALL...as a tall/thick lawn is one of your best defenses against weeds.
Thanks for the reply....yea some of them DO remind me of small trees starting to grown.

I've treated one area and going to give it a couple weeks and see what happens. Then every night I have been working through a section and pulling up what I can trying to "thin it out."

I've not cut the grass for a few weeks and going to let it grow for awhile and then just trim it on highest level of mower I can.

I was reading up on St. Augustine grass and have a solid root foundation is crucial. The grass rows in "runners" which seem to snake out like vines.

Thanks again for the input
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