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  #1  
Old 03-17-2013, 05:15 PM
Cleancut59840 Cleancut59840 is offline
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Walker hydro break in

I just replaced the right hydro pump on a walker yesterday and now it will act sluggish intermittently. They will track together until I try to turn and then the new one will slow down and not power through the turns. The reservoir appears appropriately full. Is there a break in procedure for these or an adjustment other than for the control levers? Help!

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Old 03-17-2013, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleancut59840 View Post
I just replaced the right hydro pump on a walker yesterday and now it will act sluggish intermittently. They will track together until I try to turn and then the new one will slow down and not power through the turns. The reservoir appears appropriately full. Is there a break in procedure for these or an adjustment other than for the control levers? Help!

Thanks!
There is no break in procedure. In fact, the hydros are sealed for warranty purposes so that no one tampers with them. Check and make sure that the control lever is not getting hung up. Is your pulley on that hydro worn at all? Is the damper on that hydro worn? What was the reason for replacing the hydro in the first place? Did you check your final drive while the old hydro was removed?
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:18 PM
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Air bubbles in the reservoir?
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:25 PM
Cleancut59840 Cleancut59840 is offline
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I had to replace the hydro because the control arm bearings were bad and it had a lot of lateral movement. The final drive looked and felt real good. I put on a new pulley at the same time. I will double check that it is not getting hung up. I have never replaced the steering dampers and have just over 1400 hrs. How do I k ow if they are bad? It worked fine with the old hydro.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:36 PM
Cleancut59840 Cleancut59840 is offline
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I had to replace the hydro because the control arm bearings were bad and it had a lot of lateral movement. The final drive looked and felt real good. I put on a new pulley at the same time. I will double check that it is not getting hung up. I have never replaced the steering dampers and have just over 1400 hrs. How do I k ow if they are bad? It worked fine with the old hydro.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleancut59840 View Post
I had to replace the hydro because the control arm bearings were bad and it had a lot of lateral movement. The final drive looked and felt real good. I put on a new pulley at the same time. I will double check that it is not getting hung up. I have never replaced the steering dampers and have just over 1400 hrs. How do I k ow if they are bad? It worked fine with the old hydro.
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Operate the lever and see if it gets hung up as the damper spring compresses and returns.
In addition, I know that Eaton has had some issues lately with these hydros. It could be that you got a defective one out of the box. Normally, especially on Walkers, you install them, set up the linkage and go.
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Old 03-17-2013, 10:41 PM
Cleancut59840 Cleancut59840 is offline
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I operated the lever about 50 times or so and it appears that the damper is moving full motion pretty well. It almost feels like there is an air bubble. Would a bubble work itself out without breaking the seal? I can't see how it would without a vent of some sort. Is there a place where I can read about the eaton issues to see if they are similar?
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  #8  
Old 03-18-2013, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleancut59840 View Post
I operated the lever about 50 times or so and it appears that the damper is moving full motion pretty well. It almost feels like there is an air bubble. Would a bubble work itself out without breaking the seal? I can't see how it would without a vent of some sort. Is there a place where I can read about the eaton issues to see if they are similar?
Here is a link to the repair manual for the unit
http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics...0_492-4003.pdf
Removal of the hex bolt for venting is only recommended when initially filling the unit.
If you want to try it you can but these hydros are self contained and do not normally require bleeding like a separate pump/wheel motor setup.
I would call Eaton if the problem does not get resolved.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:00 AM
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I would not unseal that unit in any way.

This will void your 1000 hr warranty.



Check your belt and tensioner. I've had issues with those that produced sluggish results.
When all else fails call the dealer.
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Professionals are people who can do their job when they don't feel like it.
Amateurs are people that can't do their job even when they do feel like it.
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  #10  
Old 03-18-2013, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by BPS## View Post
I would not unseal that unit in any way.

This will void your 1000 hr warranty.



Check your belt and tensioner. I've had issues with those that produced sluggish results.
When all else fails call the dealer.
Thanks BPS, that is what I was trying to get across. Eaton seals the units for a reason and any tampering voids the warranty on a $800 unit.
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