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  #21  
Old 03-27-2013, 09:58 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
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That type of layering is tricky... 4-6 inches of sandy topsoil would be the minimum for just 'covering' undesirable soils... your clay would then become a water barrier sub-soil, which is generally workable as long as it it at least 4" down...

Once your grade is set you still want to grow grass, correct??? Tilling should be done once your bulldozer has finished anyways... especially with clay...
I know a lot of people don't want to expend the time/money to do that, but the quality of the turf suffers greatly when the dozer leaves the clay looking like a parking lot and you try the grass from there,,, unless you can add your sandy topsoil over it, it should be tilled... it's always worth it...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #22  
Old 03-27-2013, 10:36 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodlawnservice View Post
Yes there is more research to be done.. waiting on a heavy rain downpour at the moment so I can watch and take.photos and see where most of the problem lies.. along with checking soil structure what are u recommending other than "get a professional"or hire someone as far as I know these are all steps a "professional" would take... and to become a "professional" they all start out somewhere and start with there first big drainage job.
Is this an issue of surface water, subsurface water, perched water table, shallow water table, all of the above? Different situations have different solutions.

Have you mapped the site, determined hydraulic conductivity, hydraulic gradient, etc... of the soil? Are you designing for a 50 year storm, 100 year storm? Have you determined a design flow, flow velocity, drainline size, spacing requirements? These are but a few questions you need to address.

FYI, checking the soil structure doesn't tell you squat. Determining the hydraulic conductivity does. Designing an appropriate and functional drainage system can be extremely complex. If you are looking for the homeowner type of half-assed most likely won't work "solution" then listen to axe. If you are trying to deliver a functional professional solution to a client that will work in nearly any storm event scenario, then you either need to learn how to do it properly or hire someone to design it for you. You can start learning here.

http://fyi.uwex.edu/drainage/files/2...e-Handbook.pdf
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