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  #11  
Old 03-31-2013, 02:22 PM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Granted location is huge.

I stick a tempature probe in the ground in numberous places around my own yard to watch and see how it progresses. Once it hit 60 degrees at 2-3" in the morning it is time to start. It will vary a lot between early morning and late afternoon.
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  #12  
Old 04-01-2013, 06:52 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yatt View Post
Granted location is huge.

I stick a tempature probe in the ground in numberous places around my own yard to watch and see how it progresses. Once it hit 60 degrees at 2-3" in the morning it is time to start. It will vary a lot between early morning and late afternoon.
In good turf 60 degrees isn't going to allow CG to germinate... these tests only work in thin or barren regions of the lawn that recieve a heavy dose of sun at some point during the day...

Do you ever cooperate with a h.o. that wants to grow sees in the Spring???
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2013, 11:07 AM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
In good turf 60 degrees isn't going to allow CG to germinate... these tests only work in thin or barren regions of the lawn that recieve a heavy dose of sun at some point during the day...

Do you ever cooperate with a h.o. that wants to grow sees in the Spring???
In the past I have always treated all the lawns with Pre-M. However with the drought last year, many have bare spots and seeding is going to be in order. Therefore Pre-M is only going on lawns that have significant crab grass problems. Lawns that have it under control are going to get straight fertilizer.

My conundrum is the Signature brand poly coated sulphur coated urea fertilizer has either Barricade or Dimension in it. They do not carry it without at my source so I have to find another vendor. It's too bad, I like this fertilizer a lot, good slow release and spreads excellent.

I have dealt with JD landscapes/Lesco for chemicals and was not impressed.

I just opened an account with Reinders. Anybody know anything about this Nutri-sphere - N slow release fertilizer they carry.
http://www.reinders.com/golfsoftgood...-EC%20Grow.pdf
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2013, 11:29 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS View Post
First off you are jumping the gun to the extreme thinking you are close to flinging out fert and pre now.
Hold the horses.
Crab begins to germinate at 50 deg. soil temps, and that has to be a consistent temp not just a daytime hi temp.
Around there, that doesn't happen normally until mid May or so. Last year was anomaly. You have to adjust each year. Find a soil temp website online to use, or go according to your own meter.
The potential for crabgrass to germinate when soil surface temp is 50F degrees is low. The temperature you should be using is when soil surface approaches 60F on average and over.
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  #15  
Old 04-01-2013, 11:52 AM
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Yatt Yatt is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
The potential for crabgrass to germinate when soil surface temp is 50F degrees is low. The temperature you should be using is when soil surface approaches 60F on average and over.
Hi Kiril,

That is my understanding too. Once you hit 60 degrees three consecutive days and crab grass can start to germinate. Granted it is the starting point as it continues ALL season long.
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  #16  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:14 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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The key point to remember is soil surface temperature on average. If you don't have local data or the equipment/time to determine this, then your best bet would be to use an appropriate SGDD model to estimate soil temps.

https://www.ars.usda.gov/services/so...softwareid=112
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  #17  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:18 PM
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Grassmechanic Grassmechanic is offline
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Originally Posted by boss75 View Post
Hello, do you know of such a web site that that would give me the temp. for SE Mich.
http://www.gddtracker.net/
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  #18  
Old 04-01-2013, 12:19 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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You may recall I planted some crabgrass seed I collected from my daughter's lawn 2 years ago.
I planted it in containers of potting soil inside during the winter. We keep our house very cool; it is 68.3 at the moment.
After 6 weeks at 68 degrees, no crabrass germinated. When I moved the containers outside at 85 degrees germination was fine.

Maybe I can try it again this week.

Soil temp here is 35 under turf.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 04-01-2013 at 12:24 PM. Reason: add
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  #19  
Old 04-02-2013, 09:35 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You may recall I planted some crabgrass seed I collected from my daughter's lawn 2 years ago.
I planted it in containers of potting soil inside during the winter. We keep our house very cool; it is 68.3 at the moment.
After 6 weeks at 68 degrees, no crabrass germinated. When I moved the containers outside at 85 degrees germination was fine.

Maybe I can try it again this week.

Soil temp here is 35 under turf.
That is an excellent point...
It takes a long time for the CG to germinate in the "Hot Spots" of a lawn, and almost never in GOOD lawn,,, even though the soil temps are above 60 degrees for the entire summer...

There's a place for numbers and then there is a place for reality in the field...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #20  
Old 04-02-2013, 09:43 AM
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Grassmechanic Grassmechanic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You may recall I planted some crabgrass seed I collected from my daughter's lawn 2 years ago.
I planted it in containers of potting soil inside during the winter. We keep our house very cool; it is 68.3 at the moment.
After 6 weeks at 68 degrees, no crabrass germinated. When I moved the containers outside at 85 degrees germination was fine.

Maybe I can try it again this week.

Soil temp here is 35 under turf.
2 things - 1) how did you plant it? CG germinates best when on soil surface. 2) CG needs sunlight, along with soil temp. Did you provide an artificial light source?
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