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  #31  
Old 04-16-2013, 09:40 AM
B-2 Lawncare B-2 Lawncare is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Buffalo wy
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Can we see pictures of the the lawn of the unhappy customer.
What we do is we bought a x728 4wheel steer and have a track-vac that we pull behind it.
The extra suction from the vac picks up all most all of the thacth. It also holds a lot more than any badger on a mower. And we only do jobs that we can get into the yards with our equipment.
Works great for leaves as well.
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  #32  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:38 AM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Gardener View Post
Not sure what turf you guys are talking about, but 3/4 of an inch of thatch on sports turf is unacceptable. That stuff gets verticut yearly down here.
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Cool season turf.
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  #33  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:46 AM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oomkes View Post
Cool season turf.
Gotchya. Not my wheelhouse lol
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  #34  
Old 04-16-2013, 12:23 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Let's get a couple things straight.

1) It is called dethatching ..... not thatching

2) Even if you double passed with a vertimower you will still be able to rake stuff up, not to mention a double pass will tear the shiit out of any lawn

3) Thatch is a problem primarily in turfgrasses that spread via rhizomes and secondarily by stolons. Those that exhibit both stand the highest risk of producing significant thatch. One inch of thatch is the upper threshold where it needs to be addressed IMO.

4) Kentucky bluegrass is the only cool season grass that is likely to produce significant thatch, and therefore is the only one that really needs to be monitored. All this talk about thatch and cool season grasses without specifying the type of grass is idiotic.
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  #35  
Old 04-16-2013, 02:54 PM
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GreenUtah GreenUtah is offline
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I am also puzzled by the talk of dethatching on cool season vertical grasses.

I liken it to combing your hair with a strip of duct tape.

If you are managing you irrigation, fertilization and mowing frequency properly and keeping the soil open to air circulation, via aeration, you shouldn't be dealing with thatch issues on vertical turfs. Cultural practices ARE the key and if they don't fall into your service offerings, then it's your duty to educate so that a system doesn't develop that's counterproductive to the services that you are doing.

Verticutting or any soil disruptor is going to break your pre layer, which is why most will aerate then follow with preemergents after a cutting or two can be made to redistribute core soil.

Leave the random ripping to the bermudas, zoysias, etc. and just aerate and low cut/bag those Bend yards to get them started off, then apply your pre. Visited the year before last, stayed in Sunriver, very nice area with a fantastic park downtown on the river. Loved the pedal bar circling the park, hated the winding streets that change names without changing streets..lol
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  #36  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:13 PM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rochester, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonniebud View Post
if you take pics and the job was done correct and the guy bitches it wasn't done to his satisfaction and does not pay .id write it off as bad debt and never do a thing for them ever again .remember customer is always correct but you never have to work for them again.sooner or later they always seem to want to get **** done later and I'm always to busy
Ha in this case the customer is not correct. If it was a big job, take him to court. Sounds small though, so you will have to eat it.

New customers, for me, I try to get money down. I do money down on ALL landscaping projects over $500 no matter who it is. And if the customer just looks like a cheat, I say 'nah' and move on.
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  #37  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:29 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 6,351
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Let's get a couple things straight.

1) It is called dethatching ..... not thatching

2) Even if you double passed with a vertimower you will still be able to rake stuff up, not to mention a double pass will tear the shiit out of any lawn

3) Thatch is a problem primarily in turfgrasses that spread via rhizomes and secondarily by stolons. Those that exhibit both stand the highest risk of producing significant thatch. One inch of thatch is the upper threshold where it needs to be addressed IMO.

4) Kentucky bluegrass is the only cool season grass that is likely to produce significant thatch, and therefore is the only one that really needs to be monitored. All this talk about thatch and cool season grasses without specifying the type of grass is idiotic.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenUtah View Post
I am also puzzled by the talk of dethatching on cool season vertical grasses.

I liken it to combing your hair with a strip of duct tape.

If you are managing you irrigation, fertilization and mowing frequency properly and keeping the soil open to air circulation, via aeration, you shouldn't be dealing with thatch issues on vertical turfs. Cultural practices ARE the key and if they don't fall into your service offerings, then it's your duty to educate so that a system doesn't develop that's counterproductive to the services that you are doing.

Verticutting or any soil disruptor is going to break your pre layer, which is why most will aerate then follow with preemergents after a cutting or two can be made to redistribute core soil.

Leave the random ripping to the bermudas, zoysias, etc. and just aerate and low cut/bag those Bend yards to get them started off, then apply your pre. Visited the year before last, stayed in Sunriver, very nice area with a fantastic park downtown on the river. Loved the pedal bar circling the park, hated the winding streets that change names without changing streets..lol
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