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  #1  
Old 04-16-2013, 01:38 PM
grenneam grenneam is offline
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Location: Jacobus, PA
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Problem with JD LX176 Tractor

Hi,
I'm new to the forum and have a problem with my LX176 tractor. Took it out today and cut my lawn for about an hour or so. The tractor began to sputter and then shut off. I thought i was out of gas but that wasn't the case. I started it up again and it seemed ok, but I decide to take it back to the garage anyway. It died again about a minute later, but again it started right back up, but was getting progressively worse. It will turn on and run smoothly "as long as i don't release the brake"! I tried this a number of times and as soon as I start letting the brake out the tractor starts to shut off. If I push the brake in the engine continues to run. Can anyone tell me where I should be concentrating my efforts in trying to fix this problem???
Thanks goodness I got most of my lawn mowed before this incident..
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2013, 01:41 PM
Vecchio Lawn Care's Avatar
Vecchio Lawn Care Vecchio Lawn Care is offline
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Problem with JD LX176 Tractor

Check the fuel filter. With the ethanol in the gas nowadays filters tend to gum up and restrict gas flow. If that's not the problem check the carburetor floats to make sure they aren't sticking.
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Doesn't matter what kind of equipment you run as long as you get the job done correctly and up to par.
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2013, 03:09 PM
grenneam grenneam is offline
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Thanks for your comments. The engine will run fine as long "as I don't take my foot off of the Brake". At half throttle, with the engine running smooth, if I release the brake the engine will run for about 5 to 10 seconds and then start to shut down. If I'm quick enough and press the brake back in, the engine will pick up and continue to run smoothly! Fuel does not appear to be the problem, unless it's somehow tied in to the brake position. It appears that all of the fuel lines are on the opposite side of the tractor from where the brake is positioned.
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Old 04-19-2013, 07:53 AM
grenneam grenneam is offline
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Some additional Information and a question

I let the tractor sit for a couple of days and started it up again yesterday. It ran fine. I didn't move it, I just let it sit there and run at about 1/3 throttle for about 30 minutes with the brake off (disengaged). There wasn't any problem and the motor ran smoothly. I've been looking around trying to find out how the brake actually works. All of the drawings I've seen appear to show that the brake linkage goes directly into the Hydrostatic box. I looked in the User Manual and it states (emphatically) to NOT change the transmission fluid which is supposed to be 10w30 oil. When I look at the transmission filler neck the oil appears to be black, which has me concerned. Does anyone think or know whether this could be the problem with the motor shutting down when the brake is released ??? Should I drain and refill the transmission ???
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:21 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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The trans oil will have nothing to do with the engine running well or not. None.

It sounds to me like you may have a faulty micro switch on the brake pedal. Get down under the machine (Take the deck off if you have to) and start looking for a small push button type switch that is located somewhere along the brake linkage. It can be anywhere from right up near the pedal, to all the way back to the trans where the linkage goes in. They are usully located under the foot rest on most Deere tractors. There may be a bad switch, but it may simply be a wire has been rubbed raw and is shorting out on the frame when you move the pedal.
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2013, 02:53 PM
ztman ztman is online now
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It probably has nothing to do with the brake. Look at the kill switch under the seat. If the kill switch is not fully engaged, it will kill the engine when you release the brake. Some times they vibrate loose
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:00 PM
grenneam grenneam is offline
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Thanks for both of your replies. I did check the kill switch under the seat and it looks OK. I guess the odd part for me is, that in many cases, when the problem was occurring the engine would continue to run for a number of seconds (up to 15 or so) before stopping. It seemed to me that whatever went wrong had to do with something that got heated up while I was cutting my lawn. Like I said I ran the engine testerday with the brake dis-engaged, for 30 minutes or more and could not reproduce the problem. It's been raining here so I haven't been able to take the beast out on the lawn for a good test run. Maybe tomorrow. I'm going to change the transmission oil first. It sure doesn't look like any 10w30 I've ever seen.
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Old 04-19-2013, 08:09 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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If it says not to change it- don't. Usually the system on machines that say not to change the oil is sealed, and opening it will alllow contaminants in or leak points to start. I had a Toro garden tractor that had a sealed Tuff Torque trans that contaioned 10w-30 oil. It looked black to me too, and I was so tempted to try to change it, but it ran so well and functioned so well that I never tried.

The fact that it ran 30 minutes with you off the seat makes me think that it may just be the seat's kill switch acting up. You can't always tell by looking at it. Before you do too much, try to ask your dealer tomorrow and tell them exactly what you've experienced so far. They may be able to check your seat switch for you.
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  #9  
Old 04-19-2013, 09:22 PM
ztman ztman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grenneam View Post
Thanks for both of your replies. I did check the kill switch under the seat and it looks OK. I guess the odd part for me is, that in many cases, when the problem was occurring the engine would continue to run for a number of seconds (up to 15 or so) before stopping. It seemed to me that whatever went wrong had to do with something that got heated up while I was cutting my lawn. Like I said I ran the engine testerday with the brake dis-engaged, for 30 minutes or more and could not reproduce the problem. It's been raining here so I haven't been able to take the beast out on the lawn for a good test run. Maybe tomorrow. I'm going to change the transmission oil first. It sure doesn't look like any 10w30 I've ever seen.
Good Luck. Like Ridin Green says, you cant tell by looking at the switch under the seat, I had a brand new JD that would do the same thing. Figured it was the switch, wiggled it a little and then endend up squeezing the conntection together and then wraped it with electrical tape to secure the connection until the dealer replaced.
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:57 PM
grenneam grenneam is offline
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Well, I think I've got it running again. I jumpered the seat switch and that had no effect. Looked but couldn't find another switch for the brake. Mower is probably close to 20 years old and things might have changed. I took the skins off, and power washed most everything, especially the hydro. Finally found the brake switch - It's mounted on the Hydro. I could only get to the plug, the actuator is inside the Hydro, it seemed to be working ok. I could not ignore the color of the Hydro (10W30) fluid and decided to replace it. I let it drain over night and started the refilling process the next day. Put everything back together to take it for a spin. IT WOULDN'T MOVE! My heart sanK! I started searching the Net looking for a good deal on a new mower. In the process I found something from a guy who rebuilt his Hydro and referenced the Tuff Torq website. I went there and after identifying what I thought was my hydro found a bunch of info, most of which I couldn't/wouldn't use, but among the info was a procedure for purging the air out of my version of the hydro. At first I thought it wasn't going to fix my problem because nothing happened, my heart sank even further. But after about 5 minutes or so the wheels started to move. Talk about your ray of sunshine - that was mine today! I spent the next hour performing the procedure until the wheels seemed to be responsive to the pedals. I put everything back together and cut my back lawn without incident.
My lessons learned - Don't drain your Hydro oil unless you know which Hydro you have. Not all Hydros are supposed to be drained. Procedures for those that can be drained are DIFFERENT! Don't mess with it unless you have a clear understanding of everything that's involved, i.e. all the procedures necessary. Finally, thanks to all who offered their input in trying to help me with my problem.
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