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  #21  
Old 04-22-2013, 09:04 AM
Turboguy Turboguy is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
From this I can tell you don't do much new lawn work.

Show me and OP the Equipment you have and would use on this type of job
and not a damn Slit seeder
If the lawn is done right first time you wont need a slit seeder period.
The Op is doing it right but no you want him cut corners and use a slit seeder.
Just out of curiosity what equipment would you use to do the job?

My experience is limited to hydroseeding. I think a slit seeder is good for lawn renovations and repairs but would agree it wouldn't be my first choice for a new lawn install. The two options I would look at are hydroseeding or applying the seed with a spin spreader and topdressing with compost but I would enjoy hearing what your approach to doing the job would be. Straw would be another option but not one I would consider as good as the other options.
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  #22  
Old 04-22-2013, 09:24 AM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turboguy View Post
Just out of curiosity what equipment would you use to do the job?

My experience is limited to hydroseeding. I think a slit seeder is good for lawn renovations and repairs but would agree it wouldn't be my first choice for a new lawn install. The two options I would look at are hydroseeding or applying the seed with a spin spreader and topdressing with compost but I would enjoy hearing what your approach to doing the job would be. Straw would be another option but not one I would consider as good as the other options.
What I use
Skidsteer to grade .
Rear tine tiller helps on grading.
Do my final grading apply fert/lime prep for seed bed I use my(( turf shaper)). They don't make it anymore, I bought it in 1981 it stirs ,drags, levels, and seed all same time
When ran 2 different ways The lawn will be smooth will have seed bed depth of 4-6 ''
Then I cross it with a hand seeder then Blow straw if needs it I'll glue the straw.

For Hydro seeding Everything up above beside appling seed with the truf shaper
Before I hydro seed I'll boardcast 1/3 of seed down before the hydro seed. Put 2/3 in the mix Blow the mix on the ground.
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  #23  
Old 04-22-2013, 10:19 AM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
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Originally Posted by Snyder's Lawn Inc View Post
That's BS What NRC says works doesn't always applies ((You read to much))
I don't use a Penn State seed and I wont, Been using My mix for 32 years with no issue.
You make me from some of the BS you give
Even though I do think the NTEP research has been invaluable, I also agree with what you say, because experience over may years is the best teacher. But to defend what I posted in a friendly way, I have discovered a lot of bad cultivars being put in the cheaper stuff since I can see how pathetic they did in the NTEP studies. It's made me realize that with seed, you get what you pay for, and when I see a blend with Midnight and Courtrard KBG, Uno and Defender PRG, etc etc I know that company is really doing quality stuff. The main thing is too read the regional tables, and find a supplier that is doing a professional job by paying attention to what the latest and best is. In MD, we have Newsom Seed located in Fulton, Maryland and let me tell you, those guys do their homework, so you don't have to read a lot of studies.
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  #24  
Old 04-22-2013, 11:48 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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I agree Maynard.
And...OP, take a careful look at the seed label. Look for indications that the seed company cut corners. Are the germinations all at 85 percent? That is the legal minimum. 90 percent is better. What is the percent weed seed? Below .1 percent hopefully. "Other crop" is bad as it means foreign grasses like crab or quack. And take a careful look for noxious weed seeds per pound--many times this means annual bluegrass--very undesireable. Check to see if it is old: last test date and "sell by" date. I don't do much seeding, myself.
Turbo Guy has good experience, perhaps he can advise you as to the climate suitability for the four main species, blue, rye, fine fescue and tall fescue.

And I agree...try to find varieties that did well in your area in the NTEP tests. Is it hot where you are located? Shady? Is the site irrigated?
Humid?
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  #25  
Old 04-22-2013, 12:47 PM
Turboguy Turboguy is online now
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I am happy to help in any way I can and am seeding in the same area as the OP. I am not sure what part of W. PA he is from but he has to be close so he would be using the same types of seed I would. We are usually a bluegrass, fine fescue and rye grass blend. Tall fescue we just use for stabilizing hillsides.
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  #26  
Old 04-22-2013, 08:24 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maynardGkeynes View Post
Even though I do think the NTEP research has been invaluable, I also agree with what you say, because experience over may years is the best teacher. But to defend what I posted in a friendly way, I have discovered a lot of bad cultivars being put in the cheaper stuff since I can see how pathetic they did in the NTEP studies. It's made me realize that with seed, you get what you pay for, and when I see a blend with Midnight and Courtrard KBG, Uno and Defender PRG, etc etc I know that company is really doing quality stuff. The main thing is too read the regional tables, and find a supplier that is doing a professional job by paying attention to what the latest and best is. In MD, we have Newsom Seed located in Fulton, Maryland and let me tell you, those guys do their homework, so you don't have to read a lot of studies.
I agree to what you are saying I know my seed company been in business since Thinking was around 70 years and They do there homework to
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