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  #21  
Old 04-26-2013, 07:17 PM
BostonBull BostonBull is offline
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If I had a strong PHC background I wouldn't be here educating myself and asking simple questions now would I?

would you mind sharing, and showing me the formula at the same time so I don't have these questions again?


Is it worth it for me to track down some milorganite as well?
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2013, 09:17 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
couldn't find milorganite.

Grabbed bonemeal. What is app rate with my results from above?

Also have some dolomitic lime as suggested going down same time
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Bone meal is generally produced for the purpose of P,,, whereas you would be more interestted in N...

You should have access to the the Milorganite type stuff MWRA, or what ever it is called, and use the bonemeal on your flowers...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2013, 10:00 AM
BostonBull BostonBull is offline
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Day late for the bonemeal suggestion.

Has 6% N though.

Couldn't find any bags larger than 2lb for blood meal, or other N rich meals locally.
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2013, 11:02 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
If I had a strong PHC background I wouldn't be here educating myself and asking simple questions now would I?

would you mind sharing, and showing me the formula at the same time so I don't have these questions again?
I don't know what PHC is, but if you are going to be applying ferts you should already know this. The internet is a powerful tool, take some initiative and find some credible resources.

That said
1) Collect your data (soil test, area square footage, fertilizer percentage of actual nutrients)

2) Decide what you want for a minimum level of each nutrient in the soil

3) Convert soil test values ppm to lbs/acre (multiply by 2)

4) Based on the above data, determine how much fertilizer in lbs you need to apply to meet your target minimum level for the area.

5) Determine what frequency you want/need to apply at with consideration to losses and divide by that number

Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
Is it worth it for me to track down some milorganite as well?
It is worth it for you to track down some compost.
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  #25  
Old 04-28-2013, 07:25 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
Day late for the bonemeal suggestion.

Has 6% N though.

Couldn't find any bags larger than 2lb for blood meal, or other N rich meals locally.
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They must be adding N to the bonemeal, becuz I remember buying it with negligable amounts of N , years ago, when I was getting organic sources for garden supplements... or perhaps there is still marrow inside during processing nowdays,,, who knows...

Anyways perhaps a better 'meal' for the lawn would be corn meal or soybean meal that you should be able to find as cattle feed, in more rural markets...
I also favor compost as the best,,, because it is already broken down and partially ready to be used by the plants...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #26  
Old 04-29-2013, 01:09 PM
BostonBull BostonBull is offline
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Thanks guys!

I am just a lowly Arborist learning this turf thing, appreciate the feedback and help.

The bonemeal had some N in it which is why I leaned that way, and they had the proper sized bags vs 2lb bags of blood meal.

Compost will certainly go down, I put it down 1-2 times per year ritually.

I added some milorganite as well, did one bag over the roughly 2,000 sq/ft and threw a little down for my hydrangeas and dogwood.

I think I am good for this app......


What should I be looking at doing for my next round, and when should that be? Is Late June about right?


I need to get rid of this creeping charlie, stuff is ferocious! Dandelions are easy by hand, ol Charlie is a bit different. Uggghhhh
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  #27  
Old 04-29-2013, 07:10 PM
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heritage heritage is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonBull View Post
Here is what I have, hasn't changed very much since last year. Umass is the lab who performed the test.

More N as per their recommendation.





Micronutrients:
Boron .1ppm
Manganese 3.2ppm
Zinc 5.4ppm
Copper .5ppm
Iron 6.7ppm
Sulfur 14.7ppm

SoilpH 5.8
Buffer pH 6.8
Nitrogen 31ppm
Organic Matter 2.6%

Nutrient levels:
Phosphorus 6ppm
Potassium 143ppm
Calcium 520ppm
Magnesium 37ppm

Cation Exchange Capacity 3.9 Meq/100g
Percent base saturation K=6.3 M=6.1 Ca=50.7
Micro nutrient levels all normal

Extractable Aluminum 40ppm
Extracted lead 16ppm
Estimated total lead is 219ppm

BB,

If I read your post correctly your Boron is 0.1 ppm. Mass has a lot of rainfall so no suprises there....

Creeping Charlie is sensitive to Boron. Before you go applying any B, know it's role.....It is the "Gate Keeper" for Calcium uptake in plants. It should be between 1.0-1.5 ppm on your soil test.

"IF" you do want to apply some B based on your test results, I would purchace some Sili-Kal-B from Grigg Brothers. Follow guidelines of product.

Far safer than applying B from another source until you gain enough knowledge to calculate ppm's in a solution.

Zinc should be a min 6 ppm and good range is 10-20 ppm.

The Boron, Zinc micros range is from Logan Labs.

As mentioned by others too, some good compost topdressing won't hurt either
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  #28  
Old 04-30-2013, 10:22 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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For Creeping Charlie removal,,, my son claims to have gotten it out by the root with an iron rake... you'll have to come back to it again and again but eventually you may get it all... I spray it when it is actively growing...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #29  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:21 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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dp......................
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  #30  
Old 04-30-2013, 11:24 PM
dishboy dishboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post



If you want a showcase lawn, you need to overseed yearly.
I do not see that being true. If your mulching isn't a significant amount of grass seed being returned incidentally? Regardless , at least in my area overseeding is not necessary "If you want a showcase lawn".
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