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  #11  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:50 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Its not a farmer thing Might be a Midwest word
Smallaxe Might call it something else
If you just used gly you seed right behind it
I always wait 7-10 days So I make sure I have 100% kill no green grass or weeds showing before I break ground
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2013, 10:53 PM
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JB1 JB1 is offline
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I think the mistake was putting 24d in it when it was not needed, and cost you some time.
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  #13  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:28 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coadman View Post
Ha,,,,that is the farmer in me, as we notil all of our fields, and when you kill all the weeds prior to planting any type of grain crop, it is called, "Burndown".
That's what I thought it meant... so when the henbit is dead and dry, it is burned down and ready to seed...

More interestingly for me however, is that you've been doing no-till... Our experience around here is that no-till works OK for a few years but then the soil loses too much humus and needs to be turned...

How many years have you skipped plowing? and what kind of soils do you have??and are they holding up OK???

Thanks for any replies on the subject... I know that is not what yousigned up for...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #14  
Old 04-29-2013, 02:30 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coadman View Post
My son used a glyphosate/24D mixture to burndown some weeds in his backyard. He is going to plant Fescue in this area. How long does he have to wait, until seeding the grass? Thanks for any replies.
Jim
Hint ...... what does the label say?
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  #15  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:29 PM
coadman coadman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Hint ...... what does the label say?
Label says plenty about applying 24d onto existing grass stands, but I could find nothing about time period to wait after applying 24d, such as we did. I checked the label before I posted on here initially.
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  #16  
Old 04-29-2013, 08:35 PM
coadman coadman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
That's what I thought it meant... so when the henbit is dead and dry, it is burned down and ready to seed...

More interestingly for me however, is that you've been doing no-till... Our experience around here is that no-till works OK for a few years but then the soil loses too much humus and needs to be turned...

How many years have you skipped plowing? and what kind of soils do you have??and are they holding up OK???

Thanks for any replies on the subject... I know that is not what yousigned up for...
Went full notil here in 2004, had experimented on a couple of fields for several years before I went all in in 2004. Wished I had done it 20 years ago ! We rotate quite a few crops, and the past few years have been incorporating cover crops into our rotation, with excellant results. Soils run from a clay gumbo type soil, to very, very, sandy. Notil has worked very well for me, no matter what soil types I have. The only thing that has been troublesome the past two years, is the summer drought we have all been experiencing in the Midwest.
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  #17  
Old 04-29-2013, 11:12 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coadman View Post
Label says plenty about applying 24d onto existing grass stands, but I could find nothing about time period to wait after applying 24d, such as we did. I checked the label before I posted on here initially.
How much 2,4-D was applied per acre? If it was 1 lb or more, 30 days at least.
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2013, 08:04 AM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
That's what I thought it meant... so when the henbit is dead and dry, it is burned down and ready to seed...

More interestingly for me however, is that you've been doing no-till... Our experience around here is that no-till works OK for a few years but then the soil loses too much humus and needs to be turned...

How many years have you skipped plowing? and what kind of soils do you have??and are they holding up OK???

Thanks for any replies on the subject... I know that is not what yousigned up for...
I cant remember last time, We had are plows out. Was going plow the Food plots but weather went bad last fall

No-till drills are faster and save on fuel
All we do is Soy beans every year We add Fertilizer and Drill beans
bottom ground sandy black dirt what We have on
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  #19  
Old 04-30-2013, 08:47 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coadman View Post
Went full notil here in 2004, had experimented on a couple of fields for several years before I went all in in 2004. Wished I had done it 20 years ago ! We rotate quite a few crops, and the past few years have been incorporating cover crops into our rotation, with excellant results. Soils run from a clay gumbo type soil, to very, very, sandy. Notil has worked very well for me, no matter what soil types I have. The only thing that has been troublesome the past two years, is the summer drought we have all been experiencing in the Midwest.
That's good to hear... thanks...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #20  
Old 04-30-2013, 09:38 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coadman View Post
Label says plenty about applying 24d onto existing grass stands, but I could find nothing about time period to wait after applying 24d, such as we did. I checked the label before I posted on here initially.
A label for 2,4-D

http://www.southernag.com/docs/labels_msds/2_4-D.pdf

LAWNS, GOLF COURSES, CEMETERIES, PARKS, AND SIMILAR
ORNAMENTAL TURF

Apply 3 pints per acre ( 6 1/2 tsp. per 1000 sq. ft.) in sufficient water to give
good coverage (usually between 3 to 5 gals water per 1,000 sq. ft.) In-
crease this to 4 pints per acre (3 Tablespoons per 1000 sq. ft.) if hard to kill
weeds (Spurge) are present. Do not apply to newly seeded lawns until
grasses become well established. Injury may result if applied to Bentgrass,
St. Augustinegrass, Carpetgrass, Centipedegrass, Dichondra, and Clovers.
After weeds have died remove all dead vegetation. Prepare the seed bed
by addition of top soil, peat moss or other soil amendments. Work into the
topsoil. Wait 2 weeks then seed the area at 1 1 /2 times the recommended
seeding rate.
Keep soil moist through the first cutting.
The Maximum number of broadcast applications per treatment site is 2 per
year.
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