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  #1  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:23 AM
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Green Sweep Green Sweep is offline
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Weathermatic question.

We just replaced a homeowners THREE controllers with a WM Smartiline. I am getting a 'Fault - Open' for three zones. These zones ran fine on the previous controllers and I am confident that there are no wire problems in the field. I have swapped zones in the timer and am still getting faults. That eliminates module issues. Any ideas/suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:07 AM
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1idejim 1idejim is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Sweep View Post
We just replaced a homeowners THREE controllers with a WM Smartiline. I am getting a 'Fault - Open' for three zones. These zones ran fine on the previous controllers and I am confident that there are no wire problems in the field. I have swapped zones in the timer and am still getting faults. That eliminates module issues. Any ideas/suggestions?
Have you measured the field wiring or are you assuming that the field wiring is fine?

You say that you say that you eliminated the mods.

Are these zones from the same previous controller?

Are they consecutive?
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:11 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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....and what's your shoe size....
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2013, 09:35 AM
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DanaMac DanaMac is offline
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Just because they were operating before, doesn't mean that there is not a fault. The solenoids are most likely the culprit, and were probably on their way out, but can still operate. I'd take measurements with your volt/ohm meter.

My trucks can still run with components on the brink of failing, and I may never know it.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:48 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Sweep View Post
We just replaced a homeowners THREE controllers with a WM Smartiline. I am getting a 'Fault - Open' for three zones. These zones ran fine on the previous controllers and I am confident that there are no wire problems in the field. I have swapped zones in the timer and am still getting faults. That eliminates module issues. Any ideas/suggestions?
If there are no field wiring problems, then it is the solenoids. Solenoids that are going bad and near failure will generate a fault on those controllers.
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2013, 11:12 AM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is online now
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I'm going to assume you've removed the field wires from the clock and used your volt-ohm out to the field solenoids. Depending on the type of valve, on the "ohm" setting, you should have read betwen 20 and 60 ohms.
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  #7  
Old 05-02-2013, 03:42 PM
Stillwater Stillwater is offline
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Still awaiting the shoe size.....
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  #8  
Old 05-02-2013, 06:51 PM
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CAPT Stream Rotar CAPT Stream Rotar is offline
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like stated you are nothing without your facts brother.
Get yourself a multimeter or get it out of the tool box and ohm and volt out your stations/ solenoids.

Assuming anything is just silly....

Good luck remember 20-60 ohms is a good solenoid!
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:11 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAPT Stream Rotar View Post
like stated you are nothing without your facts brother.
Get yourself a multimeter or get it out of the tool box and ohm and volt out your stations/ solenoids.

Assuming anything is just silly....

Good luck remember 20-60 ohms is a good solenoid!
....Removes Eddie from "ignore"..... Let's not forget amps.
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  #10  
Old 05-02-2013, 07:53 PM
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CAPT Stream Rotar CAPT Stream Rotar is offline
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Man I can see amps if you are on a golf course..


but ohms and volts seem like a good start.....then if you want to get tricky id go short to earth
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