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  #11  
Old 05-25-2013, 08:22 AM
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LifeBack Lawns LifeBack Lawns is offline
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Bashby: the only reason I bought from the guy is because he was 9 miles away compared to 40 . I understand how stupid that statement sounded, but I haven't bought anything from him since. He got me once that's for sure.
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2013, 11:49 AM
Jason Simmons Jason Simmons is offline
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Did you find out what was wrong with your mower. My 48" exmark metro does the same thing. When grass is high and a little wet engine starts running rough you can smell raw gas, engine is Kawasaki fs481v (i think) 16hp it has 204hrs and its a 2011 model. I thought it was bad fuel or a clogged fuel filter.
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  #13  
Old 05-26-2013, 12:12 PM
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LifeBack Lawns LifeBack Lawns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Simmons View Post
Did you find out what was wrong with your mower. My 48" exmark metro does the same thing. When grass is high and a little wet engine starts running rough you can smell raw gas, engine is Kawasaki fs481v (i think) 16hp it has 204hrs and its a 2011 model. I thought it was bad fuel or a clogged fuel filter.
Not yet. Mine is bad gas. I just changed the fuel filter too. My carburetor has some sediment in it and the mower only has 181hrs. Going to try and clean it really good.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2013, 12:57 PM
herler herler is offline
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I am guessing you run the cheapest gas you can find in it.
Techron can't help that.

How you get dirty gasoline, is by buying regular unleaded.

Pay now, or pay later.
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2013, 01:00 PM
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LifeBack Lawns LifeBack Lawns is offline
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Originally Posted by herler View Post
I am guessing you run the cheapest gas you can find in it.
Techron can't help that.
No. In fact I buy from usually whatever is around wen I am getting close or whatever. This was a shell gas station that was supposed to have nitrogen enriched gas as 93 octane. Oh well.
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  #16  
Old 05-26-2013, 02:12 PM
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Blade Runners Blade Runners is offline
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Backfiring is usually a lean condition. When you go to full throttel the carb isn't supplying enough fuel momentarily causing it to lean out and backfire. The same when you throttle down, it is cutting the fuel flow too quickly when you close the throttle.

I am not too familiar with mower carbs but on a motorcycle this is corrected using the accelerator pump adjustment. There are usually 2 screws, 1 for fuel amount (squirt) and one for timing to start/stop the fuel squirt.

If you are not familiar with carb air/fuel adjustments and which screws are which, I wouldn't mess with it and let a dealer or mechanic take care of it. If you can find a manual that clearly lays out carb adjustments and screw locations, it is not hard to do.

Did you clean the carb jets when you cleaned the carb? It is rare that dirty jets actually cause a problem but it is still something to keep in mind. Especially if you have run the mower out of fuel a few times and dirt and debris is sucked off the bottom of the tank.

As far as air leaks near the carb inlet, you can spray carb cleaner where the carb attaches to the engine and if the engine revs up you have a leak. Keep the spray away from your air cleaner as this will obviously cause the engine to rev. If you do find you have an air leak, don't run the mower anymore until you get it fixed. An air leak causes too much oxygen to enter the cylinders and causes a continuous lean condition which can damage or burn up an engine. It basically causes a blow torch effect inside your cylinders if the leak is bad enough. I don't think you have an air leak though. I think it is accellerator pump or jet related.

If it was a plug wire issue or running on one cylinder you would know for sure. It would run rough as hell and sound completely different.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2013, 11:33 AM
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LifeBack Lawns LifeBack Lawns is offline
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Ok, so I cleaned the carb with carb cleaner and compressed air. I tried to start it up and gas cam out of the exhaust. I figured it was flooded and got into the block somehow. I took it to a dealer to get a diagnostic on it for $35. He tells me the carb is stuck open and the diaphragm was stuck open so gas was getting in the engine and flooding it. He told me I would need a new carburetor ($290) and an hour and a half fo labor at $70/hr. I soon picked it up and found a new carburetor online. It was $100 from greenthumb. I overnighted it being that I have lost a weeks worth of work already and got a few gaskets. The total repair was $157.31 and 45min or less worth of work. She is up and running again!!!!!!

Problem=Bad carburetor. Anyone know someone that rebuilds them or it sounds like it's easy to do to be honest I just am not sure of the units or how they go bad. The dealer said they usually can go to 2000hrs. What is the proper care for these things so that they last?
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