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  #11  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:30 PM
tdr6874 tdr6874 is offline
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2013, 10:37 PM
btwint btwint is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
That is almost the correct order of doing things. Scalping and sanding when the weeds are not under control is a recipe for disaster. Scalping when the lawn is not adequately fertilized is even worse. Applying weed controls to a starved lawn is playing with fire. How I get it done is to fertilize first. Control weeds. Scalp. Sand level. Then keep it that way by mowing with a reel. What you see in the pictures is what happens when bermuda is not fed enough and mowed with a rotary.
Greendoctor - Thanks for clarifying this. Couple of last questions and I will leave everyone alone and get to work.

1. What fertilizer should I use for this first treatment?
2. How long after I fertilize should I treat weeds?
3. What type of weed killer should I use based off the weeds seen in the photos.
4. Once I apply the weed control how long until I should scalp?

Final question is about the mower. Yes I use rotary. I dont cut grass for a living and dont quite have the money to shell out for a decent Reel. So I have seen products like the Fiskars manual reel. With budget in mind is this OK to use. I realize its not as good as a Tru cut or anything like that so no need to tell me that but will using a manual reel be better than using my crapy old rotary? The Fiskars goes down to 1", will the be ok height to cut at?

Thanks for everyones help and understanding. Us homeowners have NO clue and Im not afraid to admit it but with everyones help, you give us a little hope, I think...
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:32 AM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
That is almost the correct order of doing things. Scalping and sanding when the weeds are not under control is a recipe for disaster. Scalping when the lawn is not adequately fertilized is even worse. Applying weed controls to a starved lawn is playing with fire. How I get it done is to fertilize first. Control weeds. Scalp. Sand level. Then keep it that way by mowing with a reel. What you see in the pictures is what happens when bermuda is not fed enough and mowed with a rotary.
True. I was mixing up a healthy lawn(fertilized properly) with one that isn't.
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2013, 11:02 AM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Originally Posted by antv20 View Post
I know this was asked but are manual reel mowers any good?
They are good for aerobic exercise.
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  #15  
Old 05-28-2013, 12:42 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btwint View Post
Greendoctor - Thanks for clarifying this. Couple of last questions and I will leave everyone alone and get to work.

1. What fertilizer should I use for this first treatment?
2. How long after I fertilize should I treat weeds?
3. What type of weed killer should I use based off the weeds seen in the photos.
4. Once I apply the weed control how long until I should scalp?

Final question is about the mower. Yes I use rotary. I dont cut grass for a living and dont quite have the money to shell out for a decent Reel. So I have seen products like the Fiskars manual reel. With budget in mind is this OK to use. I realize its not as good as a Tru cut or anything like that so no need to tell me that but will using a manual reel be better than using my crapy old rotary? The Fiskars goes down to 1", will the be ok height to cut at?

Thanks for everyones help and understanding. Us homeowners have NO clue and Im not afraid to admit it but with everyones help, you give us a little hope, I think...
It might be less expensive to hire a professional for the chemical treatments. If bought, what I would use on the lawn runs into the hundreds and the labeling states "for use by professional applicators". The sprayer is also a substantial investment.

As for the mower. I looked up the Fiskars mower online. That is probably going to work. A reel cut at 1" is a lot better than a rotary cut at 1.5" and higher. Trying to make a rotary go lower is more likely to tear up the lawn and gouge holes in it. Use of a rotary is a good way to thin out a bermuda lawn. I suggest using a rotary set as low as it will go with the bagger attached to scalp and remove debris. It does a fantastic job of sucking up and cutting off the grass runners. A reel mower does not disturb the runners attempting to crawl and attach to bare areas in the lawn.
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  #16  
Old 05-28-2013, 03:10 PM
RAlmaroad RAlmaroad is online now
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How big is the lawn? I could stop by and fertilize it and in a couple of weeks do a weed control. I'm near Greenville on I-26 about every two weeks and could take 285 to Greenville. If interested, let me know. Is the lawn in full greenup and I can't tell anything from the photos. Take some close ups of the weeds other than dandelions that are most prolific and post them. Won't be cheap but willing to give it a shot.
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2013, 05:43 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Take RAlmaroad up on his offer. He has the right materials on hand and suitable equipment to apply those materials.
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Sell not virtue to purchase wealth, nor Liberty to purchase power.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2013, 06:49 PM
wrager wrager is offline
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I started with a manual reel mower. I still have both a Brill and Mascot. Mascot is maybe the best manual reel, but it takes a lot to push. It makes sense to try before you buy, given what a good powered reel costs. I then moved onto a Maclane, followed by a Tru Cut. Sold 'em both. Just too bumpy. I finally had it leveled and bought a Trimmer and can finally cut below an inch.

What you'll find is that once you start taking care of the turf, fertilize every 30 days (with Lesco 39-0-0 and a little iron-Bonide liquid), it will be so thick and dense that using a push reel mower gets extremely difficult. And you have to do it every 3 days or so. The mower starts to "chatter" through the grass. I can see some of it in your neighbor's yard. I'll bet he uses a push reel.
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2013, 09:47 PM
btwint btwint is offline
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I would love to take RAlmaroad up on his offer. Only problem is this part where he says...."Won't be cheap...." LOL. I know I will get a few comments like, If you gonna have a nice lawn you gotta pay for it.

I do understand that and if I had the money I would hire someone but unfortunately I do not. I did however put some Lesco fert down today. Per Greendoctors recommendation, I will now work on the weeds. Below are some close ups of the 3 worst type. I would like to know what I should do for these so I can move on to laying some river sand to start the leveling process.

Wrager - My neighbor actually mows with a power reel. Im not sure what brand but it is red and white if that tells you anything. Thanks for everyones advice and input.





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  #20  
Old 05-30-2013, 07:39 PM
btwint btwint is offline
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Anyone got any comments on the previous post. Just curious what my next step should be with the weeds.

Since I laid the fertilizer how much should I water and how long should I wait until I do some sort of treatment for the weeds?

When would be the best time to level?

Any additional advice would be great.
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