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  #31  
Old 06-08-2013, 11:51 AM
cecropia11 cecropia11 is offline
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2.95 Oz per gallon assuming you were using a 41% glyphosate. Or are you talking acid glyphosate equivalent per gallon? acid equivalent weight is what you go by when talking overall active ingredient in glyphosate.
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  #32  
Old 06-08-2013, 01:45 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Same with 44% N at 100% time release, or 15% time release...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #33  
Old 06-08-2013, 04:57 PM
cecropia11 cecropia11 is offline
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quote:

I apologize for sounding sarcastic or unkind,,, my only point is that AI is the only measure that is discussed because math isn't required at every step of a discussion, normally...
I mixed up a coucouple gallons of roundup yesterday and used 6 oz/gal.
How much active ingredient did I use???



It would depend what kind of round up you were using. Also it goes by acid equivalent when using Glyphosate so are you wanting to no the calculations for 6 Oz of round up you put down, you have to calculate the active amount of acid equivalent to glyphosate you were using, and sense you just said glyphosate I have no clue the active ingredient percentage of glyphosate.
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  #34  
Old 06-08-2013, 06:05 PM
dogsluvtrux dogsluvtrux is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I apologize for sounding sarcastic or unkind,,, my only point is that AI is the only measure that is discussed because math isn't required at every step of a discussion, normally...
I mixed up a coucouple gallons of roundup yesterday and used 6 oz/gal.
How much active ingredient did I use???
Ummmmm....depends. Is it 4lb glyphosate, Roundup from your local lawn and garden store? How about Durango? Touchdown? Roundup Powermax has NIS added and is a different formulation than Roundup WeatherMax. Not to mention the umpteen different generics on the market that are all called by the ubiquitous name of "Roundup".

Amatuer??? I represent that remark!. Just because I don't get paid to cut grass anymore, doesn't necessarily mean that I'm not familiar with chem and ferts...my experience is in corn and soybeans. I was asking for an expert opinion, and I got berated for for "abusing" my lawn from 2 applications of 12-12-12 and spot treatments of 2,4-d...if you don't have an answer, why not just subscribe to the thread and maybe learn something as well?

cecropia, thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I'll give the ESN a shot this fall.
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  #35  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:25 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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My point was that cool season grasses do not grow healthier when fert is applied just as it is awakening in the Spring... The second point was that when we talk about 6 pounds of N we mean 6 lbs of N, not 6 pounds of fertilizer of which 44% of it is N... that was the meaning of the Roundup question...
Anyways, there are always laws restricting the use of fertilizers(esp. containing P), being debated in the legislature and the results are never good... the proponents of banning ferts/'cides always have a reason for their side by noting that people are dumping ferts/'cide on their lawns to excess...
So when someone is irritated to hear how irresponsibly ferts are beingdumped onto lawns, you shouldn't just assume "Berrating" w/out reason, but may want to consider that your practices create a problem for everyone else...
I remember TGCL dumping fert in granules on the frozen turf of a hillside overlooking the Lake and you can bet I "berrated" them to anyone and everyone that would listen... overtime TGCL was fired by everyone in those neighborhoods...
BTW, I don't need to learn how to force green in the Spring at the expense of the roots development, during that period... but thanks for the offer...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #36  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:08 AM
marksj marksj is offline
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I would like an answer if someone could give me one.My lawn was taken over by dandelions so bad that I sprayed for them.This was done in the first week of May at full bloom here.Dandelions have been killed no signs of them now.I have a 2 acre lot and had a soil test done last year.I took 4 samples in the yard and got these recommendations.
1 lime 0;0 sulfur 0 Fert. 18-25-12 waterph6.2 buffph6.8
2 lime 73;64 sulfur 0 Fert. 29-3-5 waterph6.0 buffph6.6
3 lime 46;46 sulfur 0 Fert. 18-25-12 waterph6.1 buffph6.7
4 lime 23;18 sulfur 0 Fert. 29-3-5 waterph6.2 buffph6.8

This was an independent soil testing company and that was there recommendations.I also listed ph levels.They do not sell fertilizer or any other products.I really do not want to go to a "Chem Green" or chain outfit to take care of my lawn.I do live in a rural area with cool season grass.Is it to late to do anything else till fall?Lawn is 35 years old mostly KGB with some fescue.Have not been able to afford much to apply to lawn but would like to start now.Any help suggestions or ideas would be very help full
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  #37  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:37 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I would think it is early enough to still apply a 1/2 pound of N now... The thing that becomes too late is adding N during the heat of Summer, when the cool-season turf maybe more interestted in partial dormancy or what I think of is rest...
What kind of soil is it, i.e. sand,clay or loam??? do you have irrigation???
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #38  
Old 06-09-2013, 10:53 AM
cecropia11 cecropia11 is offline
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Smallaxe:

I think when people are talking about run off. they are talking more of the phosphorus problem. nitrogen does not have near the effect on streams that phosphorus has. Not to mention go look at a duration CR label, a 3 month polymer coated nitrogen fertilizer and you will see for your self that 6lbs per 1000Ft is not that far off if you have problems with the amount of nitrogen fertilizer people are using try talking to Agrium advanced technology they wright the labels not me. The only thing that makes my lawn healthy enough is in the spring to apply nitrogen the building blocks of cell structure in turf and all life, it is the carbs and amino acids for cell development it is the only thing that is going to give the grass the sugars in the cells to make it all the way through a tuff summer. And yes I know potassium nitrate does that as well but trying buying pure potassium nitrate.
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  #39  
Old 06-09-2013, 05:43 PM
marksj marksj is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: New Windsor Ill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I would think it is early enough to still apply a 1/2 pound of N now... The thing that becomes too late is adding N during the heat of Summer, when the cool-season turf maybe more interestted in partial dormancy or what I think of is rest...
What kind of soil is it, i.e. sand,clay or loam??? do you have irrigation???
Soil type is loam no irrigation I can answer any other ?s also.I really appreciate someone taking the time to help me.Anything I can do to help you help me I will gladly do.
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  #40  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:43 PM
dogsluvtrux dogsluvtrux is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: St. Joseph, IL
Posts: 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by marksj View Post
I would like an answer if someone could give me one.My lawn was taken over by dandelions so bad that I sprayed for them.This was done in the first week of May at full bloom here.Dandelions have been killed no signs of them now.I have a 2 acre lot and had a soil test done last year.I took 4 samples in the yard and got these recommendations.
1 lime 0;0 sulfur 0 Fert. 18-25-12 waterph6.2 buffph6.8
2 lime 73;64 sulfur 0 Fert. 29-3-5 waterph6.0 buffph6.6
3 lime 46;46 sulfur 0 Fert. 18-25-12 waterph6.1 buffph6.7
4 lime 23;18 sulfur 0 Fert. 29-3-5 waterph6.2 buffph6.8

This was an independent soil testing company and that was there recommendations.I also listed ph levels.They do not sell fertilizer or any other products.I really do not want to go to a "Chem Green" or chain outfit to take care of my lawn.I do live in a rural area with cool season grass.Is it to late to do anything else till fall?Lawn is 35 years old mostly KGB with some fescue.Have not been able to afford much to apply to lawn but would like to start now.Any help suggestions or ideas would be very help full
Well, if it were a corn field I would recommend killing them in the fall plus a residuatial herbicide next spring. Since dandelion are a deep rooted perennial, it is much more effective to control them in the fall with a growth regulator such as 2,4-d or dicamba when they are actively storing energy in their roots. Follow up n the Spring with a long lasting residual such as pendimethilin or dimethamid, not sure what they would be called in the specialty/turf market, but Prowl or Outlook in the ag side of things. Dandelions tend to take off when the soils are slightly alkaline, but your soil tests indicate acidity. I'm not sure how much of my practical experience/knowledge translates into the turf market....which is why I asked the questions I have.
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