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  #191  
Old 06-30-2013, 04:52 PM
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gulfjoe gulfjoe is offline
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http://www.keystonetoolrental.com/
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  #192  
Old 06-30-2013, 05:45 PM
Will P.C. Will P.C. is online now
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I just don't see how renting a proper topdresser will help all that much. Maybe if your yard it extremely flat to begin with like a putting green. Golf courses still do it the manual way on driving ranges with all the divots every season.
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  #193  
Old 06-30-2013, 09:20 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbljack View Post
this year was/is my first year with a reel mower. I keep hearing all the talk about the sand treatments, and have a question that may have been answered.

I thought there IS a difference between river sand and Masonry sand. One of them is rounded and compact (river sand) and the other has coarse edges (masonary sand) that is supposed to be better suited for the lawn because it wll hold the moisture better.

Am I correct, can some please post more info on which sand is best, or is it not that important? I think I can get some masonry sand, but they don't know what river sand is. Keep in mind we are in west Texas...LOL
You are correct. Any sand that has micro and macro pore's is going to hold moisture better than sand that has had those pore's worn away by the grinding action of being under water. The only way to really tell is to look at that sand under a microscope. Some application's that need sand that has pore space are brick layer's and golf course builder's (for putting green's). Sand's that meet those requirement's are mined on dry land. River sand is cheaper (but not by much) and much more common. If you topdress your yard once or twice a year you won't notice a difference but if you topdress once a month you will. Personally, i woudn't buy river sand. For all that work and expense, i want sand that hold's moisture, but if river sand is all that available in your area, then your choice's are limited, some area's just don't have sand's like that. But like i said, if you only topdress once or twice a year you will never notice the difference. And if your goal is to level out a lumpy surface then a sand's pore space isn't the main concern anyway. A thin layer of sand make's hardly any difference in a yard's ability to hold moisture. When you talk about sand, angular, sharp and masonry sand all mean the same thing, or should, pore space.
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  #194  
Old 06-30-2013, 09:27 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will P.C. View Post
I just don't see how renting a proper topdresser will help all that much. Maybe if your yard it extremely flat to begin with like a putting green. Golf courses still do it the manual way on driving ranges with all the divots every season.
If you have to topdress a large area by hand, you'll see that a topdresser help's a lot, topdressing by hand is a lot of hard work. But remember, a topdresser put's down a thin (1/4" at most) of sand, they really don't put down enough sand to fill a divot (i tried that). You have to do a driving range by hand.
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  #195  
Old 06-30-2013, 10:12 PM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Originally Posted by wrager View Post
Mac-who supplied the sand? Great job!
GJ-I've never seen a top dresser for rent. Have you found one?
Got it from mulch man in hickory flat/holly springs off 140.
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  #196  
Old 06-30-2013, 11:39 PM
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kbrashears kbrashears is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
If you have to topdress a large area by hand, you'll see that a topdresser help's a lot, topdressing by hand is a lot of hard work. But remember, a topdresser put's down a thin (1/4" at most) of sand, they really don't put down enough sand to fill a divot (i tried that). You have to do a driving range by hand.
A smart driving range caretaker will start the first line of hitting in the front and gradually move back.
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  #197  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:15 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
You are correct. Any sand that has micro and macro pore's is going to hold moisture better than sand that has had those pore's worn away by the grinding action of being under water. The only way to really tell is to look at that sand under a microscope. Some application's that need sand that has pore space are brick layer's and golf course builder's (for putting green's). Sand's that meet those requirement's are mined on dry land. River sand is cheaper (but not by much) and much more common. If you topdress your yard once or twice a year you won't notice a difference but if you topdress once a month you will. Personally, i woudn't buy river sand. For all that work and expense, i want sand that hold's moisture, but if river sand is all that available in your area, then your choice's are limited, some area's just don't have sand's like that. But like i said, if you only topdress once or twice a year you will never notice the difference. And if your goal is to level out a lumpy surface then a sand's pore space isn't the main concern anyway. A thin layer of sand make's hardly any difference in a yard's ability to hold moisture. When you talk about sand, angular, sharp and masonry sand all mean the same thing, or should, pore space.
In all the years I've worked with soils and studied their characteristics (especially sands used for building construction, golf course construction, and athletic field construction), I've never heard of sand particle shape or origin having much to do with water holding capacity. Particle size can certainly impact water holding capacity, but particle shape and origin usually have little to do with it.

There's not really much need to worry about how much water your topdressing sand can hold, since you're just making a layer on top of the heavier soil you already have, which already holds plenty of water. When you accumulate organic matter from plant growth, you'll have plenty of water holding capacity.

This whole thread is looking like an exercise in overthinking a problem and some guys are seeing poor results from not properly understanding what they're doing.
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  #198  
Old 07-01-2013, 05:34 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is offline
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True, this is fixing a leveling problem. If you have a nutrient problem you add compost and other amendments. Can't treat the problem until you properly identify it. I use the cheapest sand available for straight level jobs.
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  #199  
Old 07-01-2013, 06:28 PM
wrager wrager is offline
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Originally Posted by gulfjoe View Post
Thanks! Good to know, although $220/day, ouch.
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  #200  
Old 07-02-2013, 08:33 AM
macgyver_GA macgyver_GA is offline
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Here's a few pics taken last night, 2 days after sand. I'll snap some of the backyard tonight.

We had an intense afternoon thunderstorm yesterday that washed out a little on the left side of the front yard. I'm thinking about temporarily piping my downspout out into my neighbor's driveway (he's fine with it considering part of it is his property anyways). I re-graded most of it with the 36" landscape rake.



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