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  #1  
Old 07-03-2013, 11:21 PM
prosper prosper is offline
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Spee-d basin or diy basin?

Doing some drainage work and like pvc with glue for pipes. I am looking at surface drains for a few areas one is about 40' x 50' slight incline with grass. Soil type is sandy loam.

The NDS square ones are more than I need and want to spend so I looked at the spee-d basins. The issue is that there is no way to seal the pipe to the basin. The pipe also fits loose so it is harder to make sure the basin is set right and I dont see how alot of water will not exit the connection on the input side.

Since a catch basin is recommended in this case, would making one out of 4" PVC "T" fitting with a cap on the bottom to give it a sump area with a grate on top be ok? This way it can all be glued. I was planning on three in this area. Also the PVC would be stronger (this riding mower)

I do understand that larger grates are available for the spee-d but I really want the stongest, glued setup possible. What are your thoughts? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2013, 11:45 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Plastic/PVC catch basin's break, so do plastic/PVC grate's. The weight of a mower is usually too much. You might want to reconsider using glue just to make repair easier, just about every drain system i have seen need's repair's sooner or later.
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  #3  
Old 07-04-2013, 12:47 AM
prosper prosper is offline
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leakage

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
Plastic/PVC catch basin's break, so do plastic/PVC grate's. The weight of a mower is usually too much. You might want to reconsider using glue just to make repair easier, just about every drain system i have seen need's repair's sooner or later.
What about the leakage?

Also if I am using straight hard pipe to the basin, something would need to be cut anyway in case of replacement because there would be no "wiggle" room to remove the basin, right?

Is there any way to seal these?
I read about silicon but I cant see it holding while get the pipe setup in the trench, too much movement.

I guess I wouldnt mind if the connection was tighter but its loose.

What about using a rubber coupling with clamps? I would have to keep the pipe off the basin flange halfway to get some space to screw it on to...
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  #4  
Old 07-04-2013, 01:57 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Cohesion is going to make almost all that water stay together, this work's on the same principal as those gutter's that only have a quarter inch opening in the front of the gutter, it does work. You will have few drop's escape but not enough to worry about. Use pea gravel underneath the catch basin's for leveling and drainage and you will never see water.

If you have to replace a catch basin, dig a big enough hole that you can pull that basin off of the pipe. This is where not using glue is big.

You can use silicon but it's not necessary and i wouldn't do it. Use duct tape to put everything together, but that's all it's for.

When you talk about 4" drain line's, they aren't airtight, if it's not sloppy loose, it's fine, "cohesion" is your friend.

A rubber coupling with clamp's is overkill, not to mention a unnecessary expense. I would use the speedi-drain's, they aren't that expensive. I have used a 4" 90* elbow with a round grate in a pinch.

As long as you have vented (airflow from one end of the drain to the other) your drain's and have at least a 2% fall over 10 feet, your drainage should work. Good luck.

Last edited by agrostis; 07-04-2013 at 02:03 PM.
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  #5  
Old 07-04-2013, 08:17 PM
prosper prosper is offline
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ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
Cohesion is going to make almost all that water stay together, this work's on the same principal as those gutter's that only have a quarter inch opening in the front of the gutter, it does work. You will have few drop's escape but not enough to worry about. Use pea gravel underneath the catch basin's for leveling and drainage and you will never see water.

If you have to replace a catch basin, dig a big enough hole that you can pull that basin off of the pipe. This is where not using glue is big.

You can use silicon but it's not necessary and i wouldn't do it. Use duct tape to put everything together, but that's all it's for.

When you talk about 4" drain line's, they aren't airtight, if it's not sloppy loose, it's fine, "cohesion" is your friend.


A rubber coupling with clamp's is overkill, not to mention a unnecessary expense. I would use the speedi-drain's, they aren't that expensive. I have used a 4" 90* elbow with a round grate in a pinch.

As long as you have vented (airflow from one end of the drain to the other) your drain's and have at least a 2% fall over 10 feet, your drainage should work. Good luck.

OK glue isnt an absolute need.
Some of the catch basins will be "in line" on the main run so no matter what when it comes to replacing I will still need to handle that, glue or no glue but that is fine.

Now since I already have the pvc "t", caps and 4" square grate, if I glue the cap on the bottom, is that OK as a catch basin or is a 4" pipe and cap to small for a sump area (I can make it as deep as needed)?

The spee-d basins have a 6 inch round sump but its not that deep, dont know if that matters.

I have a basic grate question:
As long as the GPM can be handled by the grate, does it matter if I use a 6 inch square, 4 inch outlet or is a 9 inch square 6 inch outlet grate better?
Is the bigger one easier to grade to? Should I only use the bigger one if the GPM is needed to be that high?

My pitch is easy to get and I am day lighting.

Thanks for all the answers so far.
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2013, 08:44 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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I'm not sure what you mean by 'sump area'. Do you mean the area inside the catch basin itself? If that is what you are talking about, it is not important. I think the size of the grate is directly related to how much water you are trying to move, but if it all go's into a 4" pipe, then that really doesn't matter. Keeping the grate (no matter what size it is) free from debris during a rain event is more important and will mean a lot more water get's moved quickly. If you can post picture's of the problem area, maybe i can give you a more definitive answer.

This link might help - http://www.ndspro.com/

Last edited by agrostis; 07-04-2013 at 08:51 PM.
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  #7  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:05 PM
prosper prosper is offline
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sump and grate

Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
I'm not sure what you mean by 'sump area'. Do you mean the area inside the catch basin itself? If that is what you are talking about, it is not important. I think the size of the grate is directly related to how much water you are trying to move, but if it all go's into a 4" pipe, then that really doesn't matter. Keeping the grate (no matter what size it is) free from debris during a rain event is more important and will mean a lot more water get's moved quickly. If you can post picture's of the problem area, maybe i can give you a more definitive answer.

This link might help - http://www.ndspro.com/
Yes the sump area is what nds calls the area that collects sediment. It seems to me that either solution, the pvc glues "t" basins with a 6*6 4inch outlet grate or the spee-d basin with 9 inch grate will work because they will both handle the water...

Here is a sketch of the area. The drop of the grade from fence to building is about 8inchs
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  #8  
Old 07-04-2013, 09:25 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Yes, the smaller grate's and pipe will work just fine. I would still go with the ready made basin's but your home-made catch basin's will work. Don't leave the trench open any longer than you have to, one good rain and you will have a giant mess on your hand's.
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