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  #11  
Old 05-13-2013, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post

Another common occurance with maple bark is that with a lot of water the bark can crack and the microbes make a home and live off the moisture flowing through the cambium... who knows what the microbe is,but getting rid of the bark and allowing the healthy bark to grow over it for the future is a good idea...
This tree is a matter of fact next to the natural flow of water out of my backyard. The ground next to one side of it stays wet for a day more at least after a rain.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
What's up with the tie, and don't you think it might be more than coincidental that this is occurring around the tie?
I wasn't sure when to take the ties/bamboo off of them (3 total trees). My Tulip Popular still is very flexible seems like. I've attached a pic of the whole tree. The sun made it difficult to tell, but the smaller upper half has quite a few reddish leaves and is obviously smaller than the bottom growth.
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  #12  
Old 05-14-2013, 10:22 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by User Name Taken View Post
I wasn't sure when to take the ties/bamboo off of them (3 total trees). My Tulip Popular still is very flexible seems like. I've attached a pic of the whole tree. The sun made it difficult to tell, but the smaller upper half has quite a few reddish leaves and is obviously smaller than the bottom growth.
That bamboo stake is not intended to be used after planting. Looks to me like the tie might have partially girdled the tree, and quite possibly leading to the damage. You should have properly staked the tree once you planted it, assuming it needed to be staked at all. Avoid staking unless absolutely necessary. In other words, take the stakes out.

For your reading pleasure, I chased down a couple of sources on staking trees.

http://www.umass.edu/urbantree/facts...kingtrees.html

http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/634.pdf
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  #13  
Old 05-14-2013, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Actually what you just described is known as frost cracking.

@User Name Taken

What's up with the tie, and don't you think it might be more than coincidental that this is occurring around the tie?
That was my first question...seen many dead or dying trees girdled because the installer forgot to take off the top of burlap or wire basket/ didn't come back and loosen the straps...sad.

It looks like this tree had low tie wraps and wind or whatever might have cracked the trunk
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  #14  
Old 05-14-2013, 11:06 PM
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I staked the trees but left the bamboo on to stabilize the flimsy tops. I'll remove them immediately. I also removed the burlap from the tops of the root balls . What is my course of action with what I've done so far ?
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  #15  
Old 05-15-2013, 10:54 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Maintain tree vigor, avoid over/under watering, and keep an eye on the areas for insect damage. With respect to that area and surrounding areas that would be the root collar borer and the Columbian timber beetle. The following contains some information on pest insects commonly associated with yellow-poplars.

http://www.fs.fed.us/ne/newtown_squa...R/ne_rp159.pdf

More importantly, given this may likely be causing or will cause continued damage, canker diseases. Specifically neonectria canker and possibly fusarium canker as well, in any part of the tree.

Prune the tree at the appropriate time to build a strong scaffold, to eliminate any crossing/rubbing branches, and to remove diseased wood.
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  #16  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:22 PM
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User name,
I had a maple die last season from a situation like yours.
Our weather subsequent years back was of drought. During drought, this brings on verticillium wilt.
Frost cracking as I think the problem is leads to hypoxylon cankers.
The reddening or bronzing of leaves is remnant to lack of nutrient uptake and will eventually kill this tree. My tree lived for two more season and died last year after the crown turned reddish purple. The leaves all turned brown and stayed on the stems.
Establishing water, fertilizing, and insect control will prolong life, but if you have hard winters, and hard springs reappearing again..............I wouldn't feel so inclined to think this tree will survive.
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  #17  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:27 PM
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username,
After reading back more intensively, how long has this tree been planted?
I can't say that leaving this stake with bands on there isn't part of the problem, but something more is making me curious. I worked at nurseries, and for a grower in Tennessee. I have seen where these larger trees are taken from the soil, dressed with burlap and the ropes attached to the trunks for a bobcat to lift for loading. This leads to bard damage to the cambium. The strength straps do cut into the bark and inhibit sap flow and also damage the cambium. As the trunk swells, it cracks and allows entry points for canker bacterium.

I can't forget about tailgate injuries. When the crown of the tree hangs over the tailgate of a truck during delivery and planting.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:44 PM
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they have been planted since Oct. of 2010
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2013, 06:59 PM
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That long?
Then the bands whether they are loosened will stress the sap flow. Usually one season is all the stakes and straps is needed to be left on for.
If the tree was still to topple, then a triangular pattern of arbor stakes should have been used.
Take those bands off and allow for the tree to callus around those damaged areas. Remove and damaged or dead bark. Left on the tree will not allow water to exit those areas. Also, these areas will hide invading insects.
If this tree is truly strong....it will survive and callus up around the problem.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2013, 10:28 PM
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I've been using some black tar looking tree repair product. I found a small area on my 4" pin oak that had the same condition about a month ago and treated it the same.
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