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Old 07-16-2013, 10:22 PM
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jnrogers jnrogers is offline
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John Deere 950 quality of cut/striping

Guys, I bought a John Deere 950R with a 60' MOD and a striping kit about a month ago. I mow at 3.5" high. The problem I have is my mower leaves a windrow on the right side when mulching. I have changed out to OEM mulching blades which my dealer did not provide. It still does it and I am having to double cut everything. If I side discharge it leaves the yards looking like a hay field which is unacceptable to me, especially with a $12000 machine. It doesn't have a roller for a striping kit, John Deere came out with a rubber flap that mounts behind the deck. This thing is worthless unless I have something out of adjustment. It doesn't stripe at all. I have done some searches on here and found some info but nothing that has seem to help. My dealer which is usually good really hasn't helped me at all on this issue. They just look surprised and go Huh, never heard of this. Anybody have any suggestions or have run into this problem? Thanks guys.
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:57 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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I have a 2012 Z950A w/60" MOD. I am not all that happy with the deck. I wish I'd have went with my gut and bought the std Pro deck instead. The MOD needs to be set up correctly for the conditions you have at any given time to do its best work. The std deck cuts great no matter what.

The windrow is going to happen due to the design of the deck. It is better than using an OCDC, but not a whole lot. There are changes that can be made that improve it tremendously for mulching though. I don't know how familiar you are yet with your deck, but for side discharging, taking the two adjustable baffles between, and at the rear of each cutting chamber, completely out makes a big difference. The deck is just too tightly baffled for high lift blades with them installed. For mulching, I made my own adjustable baffles that close each chamber off much more than the stock adjustable baffles do, and they make a huge difference. No more windrow at the right side, and they chop leaves up much better with no blowout at the front all using OEM wavy mulcher blades. The stock adjustable baffles leave too large a gap between cutting chambers to prevent the clippings from all ending up eventually at the chute plate.

I made my own rubber striper for mine for $15 and a half hour of time. It isn't quite as good as a roller, but it is a lot better than none at all even though the deck stripes great without anything, as long as you have the pitch set correctly. The rubber needs to drag the ground just slightly to lay the best stripes.
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:47 AM
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jnrogers jnrogers is offline
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Thanks Ridin Green. Yes I am not to happy with the MOD either. Next time I am buying the standard deck and putting on a mulch kit. My 717 and my 7H17 cut great and they only have mulch kits. I guess it just pisses me off that I have to modify something that should be top of the line. Its like buying a Lexus and having to do something to it just to use it. I will have a friend make those baffles longer and see if it works. I was wondering about that because my other two true mulching mowers are completely closed off. You should be an engineer for John Deere you fixed their screw up. Cant believe they sent these out knowing they don't work right. Thanks again.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:40 PM
dc33 dc33 is offline
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Ive got a 72" 930A PRO 7 Iron deck and not real happy with the striping and uneven dishevled cut, and I have the roller striping kit too!!

Had a roller on my old Super Z and Lazer Z and they did great and a good inch thicker. Half the time the JD roller wont even turn

Looking for a soltution with my dealer too. They have always been great and got my QuikTrak in line and cutting great, hopefully they can sort this one out too.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:22 PM
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jnrogers jnrogers is offline
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Yep DC33 I am taking mine back to the dealer too. They have always taken care of me so Im sure they will figure something out. Maybe they will do what ridingreen said and just put longer baffles in it. I am going to let them know about that. I wish they would just take the mod deck off and give me a standard deck with a mulch kit. I am also going to complain about the stripe kit.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:48 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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I mowed today with mine and my homemade striper kit. It lays down some nice stripes. It was getting too dark to take any pics though. Having the correct pitch on your deck makes a big difference, as does making sure the rubber flap only overlaps the tires inside edges by an inch or two. More than that and the flap stops air flow intake at the rear of the deck.

dc33- the roller is supposed to have grease zerks at each end. Have you ever checked or greased them?
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:06 AM
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jnrogers jnrogers is offline
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ridingreen, my flap is barely over the inside of the tires, but how far should it hang below the deck? There are 3 carriage bolt holes on each side. They are straight up and down for different heights. I have mine in the middle which puts the flap about maybe an inch below the bottom lip of deck. I have tried the upper and lower holes but still had no effect. Maybe I should just try to adjust the deck maybe the dealer didnt get enough pitch on it. I was going to take the machine back to the dealer with my problems but I may just try your suggestions. This thing has me spoiled and I do not want to be with out it. Thanks man for your advise.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:51 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Being only an inch or so below the deck lip is your problem right there. The thing can't really bend the grass blades over like that. Look at what your tires or an actual roller does. They ride right on the ground. Since rubber is flexible, and doesn't put near the pressure of a steel roller like Deere has or one like the Big League lawn striper kit, I have my flap just dragging the ground while the deck is in the cutting position and sitting on smooth cement. That puts decent pressure against the grass blades while not tearing thin grass loose on sandy soils. Mine is designed so that it mounts to the rear deck gauge wheel bolts themselves which are in the lowest position since I cut at 3.5". That allows me to adjust it along with the gauge wheels if I need or want to lower the deck cutting height. It really does a pretty decent job for a $15 striper, and rubber itself can be easily replaced when the time comes to do so. The rubber I bought at TSC and is approx 1/4" thick by 5" high or so.
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:50 PM
dc33 dc33 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin' Green View Post
I mowed today with mine and my homemade striper kit. It lays down some nice stripes. It was getting too dark to take any pics though. Having the correct pitch on your deck makes a big difference, as does making sure the rubber flap only overlaps the tires inside edges by an inch or two. More than that and the flap stops air flow intake at the rear of the deck.

dc33- the roller is supposed to have grease zerks at each end. Have you ever checked or greased them?

You sir are correct! I never noticed them. When i tried to grease em though the zerks were recessed too far into the hole they are in for me to get the grease gun to attach to the zerk. Ill ask my dealer how to get em greased. Thanks!1
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:46 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc33 View Post
You sir are correct! I never noticed them. When i tried to grease em though the zerks were recessed too far into the hole they are in for me to get the grease gun to attach to the zerk. Ill ask my dealer how to get em greased. Thanks!1
Seriously? That's just flat out crazy, unless you have a fatter than normal grease gun tip or something. The zerks may even need to be unscrewed and replaced if the tiny ball is rusted into place. That's an easy fix though. Good luck, and let us know what happens.
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