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  #1  
Old 07-26-2013, 09:54 PM
devo20 devo20 is offline
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Lawn Rescue

Hi Everyone. My yard has officially been taken over by weeds this year. Last year creeping charlie started to take over and this year it has overtaken the yard. I have re seeded about 200 sq ft of grass and am trying to recover the rest of my yard without such drastic measures. I have tested the soil it came back at 6.5, I aerated in the spring and have fertilized twice thus far. I sprayed for weeds with Weed-B-Gon which is a Chealated Iron weed killer. I have attached some pictures below of the problem area and also the newly seeded area. There is also a red leaved weed that is popping up in my newly seeded area that I need to figure out how to get rid of. Also there is a picture of the lawn that had grown in nice and thick in the same area?? Any and all help is appreciated.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:14 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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When the creeping Charlie is actively growing and there is adequate moisture in the root zone and the temps are not too high,,, find yourself a spray that has adequate 'Dicamba' and get it on the weed...
All of my Spring spraying was defeated by rain for the CC... other weeds died but the rain was adequate to cause the CC to revive and keep living... get the grass established this Fall and leave it alone in the Spring...
If you have a problem with CC,,, your aeration is going to diminish the grass and allow the CC to take over the disturbed ground... CC is a lot tougher than grass...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:29 AM
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cwnla cwnla is offline
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the weed looks like curly dock. should not realy aerate or do lawn renovations in spring..u will battle weeds all season if your not on top of things as u have found out thus far.good weed control is speedzone.(1.3 oz. per gallon/1K) i beleive u can use if air temp is up into the low 90"s.i myself specialize in lawn reno's. so i know alot of do's and don'ts. u could have used siduron in spring to fert with. has pre emergant for grassy weds.

corey
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:20 AM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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All pesticides (herbicides at least) have been outlawed in Canada, right?
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:23 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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If you cannot use conventional herbicides in Ontario...perfect lawns are going to be nearly impossible...clearly the iron compound is not doing the job. Don't give up--it may take repeated treatments or getting the timing just right. Some weeds are killed by short mowing and some are killed by frost. But the ground ivy will persist through both of those.
I suggest reseeding or overseeding with one of the Canadian dense sports-type Kentucky bluegrasses, like Quantum Leap or Touchdown. The ability to compete with poa annua as claimed in their advertising, is a good sign.

The best types of fine fescue are also very dense. Perennial ryegrass is not particularly dense.
http://pickseed.com/ECanada/proTurf/...uchdown_ts.pdf

The best bluegrasses are competitive and crowd out most weeds, especially at high fertility levels. Keep the fertility levels at the maximum recommended in your town, (probably 5 treatments per year--using 50 percent slow release nitrogen). Irrigate regularly to avoid thin spots due to dryness.

Better still, resod with a top-quality bluegrass sod of a type that has grows tight, and has great density and competitive ability.

The reddish weed in the new grass could be a summer annual, a type killed by frost--or killed by just mowing at 2 inches--hopefully not a major weed. Tall weeds do not withstand short mowing.
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Old 07-27-2013, 02:36 PM
devo20 devo20 is offline
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Pesticide use on weeds for looks is now banned in Ontario for cosmetic purposes. The pesticide I used is about the best that is available to use right now. Re Sodding is out of my budget so I am going to take the time and try and recover the yard that I have right now. My next plan of attack is no hard rack all the CC that I can, and mow short for a few weeks. I know this is a bad time of the year to mow short but am hoping like you said that this may kill/deter the growth. I will than overseed in the fall and topdress with compost to build up the organic matter in the soil. Also would you suggest aerating the fall before I topdress and overseed? Or would you spray the CC in the fall and allow the roots to take in more of the herbicide?
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:18 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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If you cannot spray chemicals, there is nothing to spray for crabgrass. I suggest, as much as you can, hand pull the crabgrass, (actually, cut if off flush to the soil with a saw knife). Keep in mind crabgrass will be killed by frost about October 20th in our area.

If you seed, start about when temperatures drop below 85, about August 15 in our area. Seed germinates fast when the soil temperature is warm, (if you keep it moist).

Not sure, but heavy raking may remove most of the ground ivy--try a dethatcher rake. The stems creep and root as they go; a rake may catch the stems or rhizomes. Keep soil most so that the roots pull out.

Hats off to Canada for sending us some cool air this week. Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:19 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Aerating anytime is going to encourage the CC... mowing short will stress the grass and make it easier for the CC to kill and take over... removing the CC when ever it is noticed over a period of time,,, WITH the strengthening of the grass may do it, without chemicals...
However IF it is bad enough, till up the roots of the CC and be sure the roots are all dead when it comes time to reseed this Fall... carefully remove any sign of CC or any other nondesirable weed...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:46 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Mowing short will stress the grass...as will heavy raking. My suggestion: skip two mowings--let the crabgrass get tall and luxurious; then AMBUSH! Surprise it by cutting at 1/2 inch. Rake or bag as much crabgrass as you reasonably can--don't worry about the roots; frost kills them. Crabgrass is a hot weather annual. Apply your seed when the weather is still hot. Then its a battle between your new grass and whatever remains of the crabgrass. However, the crabgrass stops growing when the nighttime temps fall to about 45. The new grass then begins to take over. Stimulate it with fertilizer about this time. Get it to grow as fast as you can...the idea is to get as much growth and density as you can before the weather stops further growth in the fall. Crab disappears. Growth of the new grass stops when the day temps fall below 45 or the night temps fall below 32. In Michigan, that happens about mid November. Away from Lake Michigan, it will be a few degrees colder.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 07-28-2013 at 03:48 PM. Reason: added
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  #10  
Old 07-28-2013, 03:55 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Riggle,,, this is about CC,,, not CG... perennial,,, not annual...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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