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  #21  
Old 07-31-2013, 02:29 PM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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I don't get what it is you are trying to say.
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  #22  
Old 07-31-2013, 06:06 PM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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I have a big pile out behind my place, around 20 cubic yards. None of it has up and gone anywhere.
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  #23  
Old 08-01-2013, 02:21 AM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Let's just say implementing a bridge program is vastly easier vs a strict organic only program.

I won't even waste my time putting down fertilizer of any kind for a client unless a mowing height minimum of 2.5" is maintained for cool season grass. Same goes for spot spraying.
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  #24  
Old 08-01-2013, 07:47 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Let's just say implementing a bridge program is vastly easier vs a strict organic only program.

I won't even waste my time putting down fertilizer of any kind for a client unless a mowing height minimum of 2.5" is maintained for cool season grass. Same goes for spot spraying.
I agree that there is no reason to mow below 2" for any cool-season lawn and 2.5 - 3" is about the best for that full manicured look...
I don't get why anyone would decide that scalping a lawn for seeding is a good idea either... It is as if they don't believe that the seed will find its way through 3" of grass blades to get to the soil...
For spot spraying,,, I'm going to start that up again to hit the weeds that survived in June and then get going on overseeding...
The 10 day forecast shows moderate temps with nite time lows in the 50s so I think it will be simple enough to put down a synthetic fert to get the grass primed for Labor Day weekend...

My bridge lawns will becoming quite active since the heat of Summer appears to be over...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #25  
Old 08-01-2013, 02:50 PM
NattyLawn NattyLawn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I agree that there is no reason to mow below 2" for any cool-season lawn and 2.5 - 3" is about the best for that full manicured look...
I don't get why anyone would decide that scalping a lawn for seeding is a good idea either... It is as if they don't believe that the seed will find its way through 3" of grass blades to get to the soil...
For spot spraying,,, I'm going to start that up again to hit the weeds that survived in June and then get going on overseeding...
The 10 day forecast shows moderate temps with nite time lows in the 50s so I think it will be simple enough to put down a synthetic fert to get the grass primed for Labor Day weekend...

My bridge lawns will becoming quite active since the heat of Summer appears to be over...
I could post a childish comment here, but a reason to scalp before slice seeding is the thatch from the slice seeder will be too excessive which will in turn suffocate areas of the turf.
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2013, 11:30 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NattyLawn View Post
I could post a childish comment here, but a reason to scalp before slice seeding is the thatch from the slice seeder will be too excessive which will in turn suffocate areas of the turf.
So you set the mower deck low enough to scrape thatch off the dirt??? You might have the slice seeder set too deep...
Thanks for avoiding the childish post,,, but I forget what this thread really is about right now...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #27  
Old 08-03-2013, 09:23 AM
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mikesturf mikesturf is offline
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Grassmaster, I use a bridge program. My fertilizers contain traditional synthetics but also contain milorganite, composted chicken manure, etc. If your local supplier does not carry something like this, try:

http://shop.techterraenvironmental.c...rganic-matter/
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