Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-16-2013, 09:35 AM
silicuda silicuda is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Crab Grass + Moss Problem

I am having major issues and need some advice how to tackle never ending crab grass and moss problem.

The lawn is watered at 6AM every morning, once per day at the moment. If I water it less than that (ie every 2 days) then it starts to go yellow and dry out quickly as we have over 90-100 degrees here during July/August months.

What should I do?
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-16-2013, 09:45 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by silicuda View Post
I am having major issues and need some advice how to tackle never ending crab grass and moss problem.

The lawn is watered at 6AM every morning, once per day at the moment. If I water it less than that (ie every 2 days) then it starts to go yellow and dry out quickly as we have over 90-100 degrees here during July/August months.

What should I do?
If you want any worthwhile advice you need to include a general location and more information. At a minimum you need to include how long are you irrigating, type of sprinklers, type of soil, type of turf, rooting depth, exposure, plant density, microclimates, etc.... You should also know the PR and DU of each zone at a minimum if you want to irrigate properly.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-16-2013, 09:51 AM
silicuda silicuda is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
If you want any worthwhile advice you need to include a general location and more information. At a minimum you need to include how long are you irrigating, type of sprinklers, type of soil, type of turf, rooting depth, exposure, plant density, microclimates, etc.... You should also know the PR and DU of each zone at a minimum if you want to irrigate properly.
I'm just a simple home owner in Serbia, there's no land scaping company here (to them the term is alien) so, i can't give answers to type of soil, type of turf, rooting, etc etc etc etc as I have no clue and the terms are new to me.

But I have HUNTER irrigation system and it is 3 zones, the zone that gets the most sun around the pool runs for 10 minutes in the morning and soaks it well, the other zone in the front which isn't so sun heavy runs for 5 minutes, and by the side of the house which is always in shade (90%) of the time, it runs for 2 minutes on low output sprinklers.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-16-2013, 10:06 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,903
If you have a decent loam, that soaks up water and retains it well, you should be getting the soil wet 4-6 inches deep when you water... If the grass can't survive 1 day w/out a drink,, you need better roots...

CG and Mosses,,, indicate to me that there is surface moisture w/out a lot of depth...

How deep does your irrigation get into the ground???
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-16-2013, 10:09 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,309
Until you get your irrigation under control you will never control your moss, and even when you do, shady areas may continue to present a problem.

The things I listed are necessary to understand the water requirements of the zone and the performance and type of irrigation. Without the information I, nor anyone, can provide any insight or advice on irrigation. Your crabgrass problem is not related to irrigation directly, but rather turf maintenance. Short list .... get it under control with herbicides, reseed the area and maintain a high density stand of turf cut at an appropriate height.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-16-2013, 10:12 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: District 9 CA
Posts: 18,309
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
If you have a decent loam, that soaks up water and retains it well, you should be getting the soil wet 4-6 inches deep when you water.
You should irrigate to a depth that covers the effective root zone of the plants in the zone, plus any leaching requirements. That could be 4 inches, or it could be 8, 12, 16, 18, 24, etc.......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
CG and Mosses,,, indicate to me that there is surface moisture w/out a lot of depth...
This is categorically untrue.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-16-2013, 10:40 AM
silicuda silicuda is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
Until you get your irrigation under control you will never control your moss, and even when you do, shady areas may continue to present a problem.

The things I listed are necessary to understand the water requirements of the zone and the performance and type of irrigation. Without the information I, nor anyone, can provide any insight or advice on irrigation. Your crabgrass problem is not related to irrigation directly, but rather turf maintenance. Short list .... get it under control with herbicides, reseed the area and maintain a high density stand of turf cut at an appropriate height.
What herbicides should I use? They don't sell anything here for crab grass - only general weed killer which killed many weeds just not crab grass..

for grab grass they say pull them with that V shaped knife by hand.


Q2: The other person said my grass roots might not be deep enough or strong enough? How can I make them better?

PS: Should I water at NIGHT, or early in the morning.. this too puzzles me...
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-17-2013, 10:43 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,903
OK ,,, you win... make it into a huge deal about statistics and calculations rather than just poke a shovel into the ground and take a darn look at a cross-section of your soil profile... I love it how college boyz know so much about growing grass they don't even have to see where the water is in the soil
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-17-2013, 11:12 AM
silicuda silicuda is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
just poke a shovel into the ground and take a darn look at a cross-section of your soil profile...
thanks, will do that

BTW: when is it best to water, at 9PM, or 6AM?
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-18-2013, 10:15 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,903
Early morning watering is best, becuz you don't want the turf to be wet overnight...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:20 AM.

Page generated in 0.07218 seconds with 9 queries