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  #21  
Old 08-18-2013, 05:46 PM
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mwalz mwalz is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 736
Quote:
Originally Posted by QLM View Post
First belt drives suck. They really do take more effort to use and a real reverse is great. If you are new to the game they are great but as soon as you can get yourself a hydro something do it. I am partial to walkbehinds with a sulky. I like the less weight and can cut wet conditions sooner by walking behind them. Parts are less expensive seem to last longer.

About what you can cut with them? Anything. Don't listen to you won't make enough an hour stuff around here. If your schedule is not full who cares what you make hourly. If you make less an hour using a machine that is paid for that is still a win. If you pass on a job cuz it is too big and are on the sofa not earning is that a win? Save money for a bigger mower that will speed up those jobs later. Just don't take on huge jobs.
Well I'm just starting out so I figured for the price why not. He's throwing in a 33" troy-built that needs new belts and new throttle plate. But if he wud take $800 for it that would be even better
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2013, 08:44 PM
32vld 32vld is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: LI NY
Posts: 3,190
There is no best mower.

There are things that make one size/type mower the best mower for one size/type property.

Every property is different. The best mower is a assortment of mowers that handles all of the properties one has.

When a new guy asks is my mower to small for a property, or what size mower the best mower the answer is the one he has.

New guy's as a rule do not have the money to go out an buy the best mower for a job. The best mower is the one that they already have that they can make do with and still make some money. That extra money will provide the savings to make buying another size/type mower. Thus the business grows.

New guy's usually have large blocks of time open in their schedule and are working solo. Better to do that large lawn then sit home and not make anything.
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  #23  
Old 08-19-2013, 12:14 AM
DA Quality Lawn & YS's Avatar
DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Rochester, MN
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Up to an acre I would say, or any VERY nice lawn you want to do an exceptionally good stripe job on without rutting like a Z would.
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7x14 Stealth SE Enclosed with 48" side ramp
08 Toro Z400 48" deck, 21HP Kaw with EZ Vac twin bag
09 Exmark Turf Tracer HP 36"
21" Toro SR4 Super Recycler
Stihl KM90 Kombi w/ straight shaft trimmer & tiller heads
Husqvarna 125B Blower
PG Magnum
Turfco XT5 Aerator
Turfco LS-22 Overseeder
EcoLawn 200 Applicator

I can do all things through Him who gives me strength.
Philippians 4:13
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2013, 05:26 PM
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mwalz mwalz is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: St. Louis
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Well thanks to all of you for your input. It has really helped
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  #25  
Old 08-22-2013, 11:10 PM
SaberLawnCare SaberLawnCare is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: St Louis Mo
Posts: 265
I have a 36 inch Ferris and the smallest lot I mow is 1000 sq feet, the largest is an acre. most are about 5 to 10 grand in size.

I could only get one mower, I chose a 36 inch so I could say yes to more lawns due to size, gates etc......I made a mistake, I have one freakin lawn the 36 is needed because of the gate, I have 44 other lawns the 36 inch is ok at...but a 52" would be better. I'm kickin myself in the butt for not goin with the 52" to begin with. Hindsight is 20/20 but I can deal with it until next year.

if you have 5000 sq foot lawns as an average, a 36 will suit you well, but if gate size isn't an issue then a 52" will suit you better.

Luckilly it was a great year and I'll be ploppin down money for the 52" next spring.
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