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  #11  
Old 08-28-2013, 11:31 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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I have used a product that contains diquat in addition to glyphosate.
Diquat burns weeds fast.
But I also agree with you that sulfentrazone, carfentrazone and Octane work really fast, 6 hours under ideal conditions.
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2013, 05:31 PM
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Here's a little trick to improve the efficacy of any systemic pesticide; add one once of a 12% liquid humic acid product to 10 gal water then add 3/4 of the normal amount of pesticide. This mix will improve the uptake of the chemical by the plant and reduce your costs.
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:06 PM
ArTurf ArTurf is online now
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While we're on the subject of Gly what can be mixed with it to increase it's effectiveness in cooler temps?
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  #14  
Old 08-28-2013, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patriot Services View Post
I use the .41% generic from TSC mixed at 5% per gallon. Its still money from the Roundup name.
Is this the granule version like the quick pro? Do you still need to add surfactant?

I used to use a .41 generic from another supplier but found quick pro gave better results in many instances.

While we are on this subject...anything that is effective in action and cost in terms of controlling nut sedge in beds?
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  #15  
Old 08-28-2013, 10:27 PM
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wildstarblazer wildstarblazer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
I have used a product that contains diquat in addition to glyphosate.
Diquat burns weeds fast.
But I also agree with you that sulfentrazone, carfentrazone and Octane work really fast, 6 hours under ideal conditions.
I was gonna say Octane but I think that only gets broad leafs.
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  #16  
Old 08-28-2013, 10:34 PM
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AMS and MSO

You might try AMS (ammonium sulfate). It is supposed to make all herbicides work better. I don't know the technical term, but herbicides don't work well with really hard water and AMS cures this......ties up ions or something. supposed to be really critical for gly.

Also add a sticker like crop oil (coc) or methylated seed oil (MSO). It keeps the gly on the leaf longer and helps break down the waxy leaf cuticle for better absorption.

These are additives I've used in commercial crop spraying for corn or beans, so I'd have to do some number crunching to figure out the rates. But, around the house I've used 4 tablespoons of olive oil or veggie oil in in a 2 gallon sprayer and it really works fine as a sticker. You gotta shake the heck out of it because it doesn't disperse nicely like a proper commercial sticker, but it does the job.
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  #17  
Old 08-28-2013, 10:39 PM
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Snyder's Lawn Inc Snyder's Lawn Inc is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassmasterswilson View Post
I'm sorry if this has been talked about in the past.

Over the past few days of spraying I've noticed a nice crop of weeds in some of our mowing client's beds. I've had a talk with the mowing crew but obviously they have been slacking on spot spraying beds.

My gly mix is normally 2 oz per gallon and some 80/20 added. Is there something I could spike it with to speed up the kill? Some speedzone?

Hoping to avoid the calls.
One thing you want work super fast add little fertilizer to your mix
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  #18  
Old 08-29-2013, 04:24 PM
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4 - 6 oz per gallon of 41% Gly, plus LI-700.
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2013, 07:56 AM
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We use a heavy mix of 41% Gly generic; 6-8 oz per gallon and add a little "Knockdown" from Helena Chemicals; 1oz per gallon to the mix plus 1/2oz per gallon "Induce"; weeds are desiccating within the hour.
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2013, 11:04 AM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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A lot of us seem to be chasing false leads or misleading ideas -- and some of these have even made their way into the RTU market. Adding PSI or PPO inhibitors changes the way the target plant works, which often cuts the legs out from underneath your glyphosate app.

A study out of Auburn was published in 2008 that looked into the glyphosate + diquat combination (like RoundUp QuickPro) and found that, although the diquat addition gave quicker injury symptoms, total weed kill was slower, more regrowth happened, and more total glyphosate was required to kill the weeds than using glyphosate alone.

Remember that glyphosate inhibits the production of aromatic amino acids via interruption of the shikimic acid pathway. When contact herbicides are used, they prevent the shikimic acid pathway from properly functioning, which inhibits glyphosate from killing the plant. After the weed recovers from the contact herbicide damage, it grows like normal.

Most glyphosate formulations already include a surfactant, so adding more just costs you more money without improving control. Sometimes you may see some phytotoxicity from the surfactant, but it is only superficial damage and not improved control. It may even reduce control.

When adding AMS, it *can* help, but not because it is helping glyphosate enter the target weed any faster. Remember, the shikimic acid pathway has to be active in order for glyphosate to kill the target weed. Fertilizing plants usually increases activity in their internal pathways, which allows glyphosate to work more efficiently. But, you're only speeding up the activity here by a day, maybe two days.

The best thing to do to maximize your glyphosate application is to mix it properly (according to the label), apply so as to get thorough coverage of the target weed, and make sure that the weed is under as little stress as possible. Then, sit back and watch the magic happen!
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