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  #21  
Old 08-30-2013, 08:31 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,819
Does anyone have experience with gypsum mixed in with clay to help it percolate?? Does it really work???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2013, 03:53 PM
wrooster wrooster is online now
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by phasthound View Post
Buy the best seed, I like Jonathan Green Black Beauty (tall fescue blend).
+ 1 !!!

See many pics and much info at
http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...42#post4488442

Wrooster
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2013, 06:11 PM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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Location: St. Joseph, MI
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anon4once: I am having some trouble with my account here due to an email problem I caused. Thank you for your note on my user page.
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  #24  
Old 09-04-2013, 08:58 AM
turfcobob turfcobob is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anon4once View Post
Thanks for your suggestions guys... a few follow-ups.

I just recently realized I had the very clay like soil.. I'm learning as I go here and my contractor that did the new lawn screwed me with crappy seed and "top soil".. turns out to be clay, sand, and rocks with very little organic material at all.

I will definitely be aerating more often so I can condition the bad top coat I have and get some organics mixed in.

Some follow-ups:
- foreplease; you mention not doing granular weed killer in fall. Is this an absolute no-no?? I only have a residential pump sprayer and want to avoid spending any more money than I have to. If I really cant/shouldn't use granular and my spreader, is there a suggestion on what I can get from the Lesco dealer that may work well in a pump sprayer. (I have 10,000 sq feet, so I may need to buy a better sprayer)

- Considering I just used Merit+Fertilizer 2 weeks ago, if I aerate and seed in the next 3 weeks, what should I use for fertilizer when I seed (from Lesco)

- will I risk over-fertilizing so close to the last application?

- I have some VERY sunny sunny areas and VERY shady areas. Should I try to use different seed mixes in both areas, or just one mix for all areas and let the strong seeds "win" in their favorite areas?"

- Is the sandy compost something I get by the truckload or something that comes in bags? I'm having a hard time finding a bulk material dealer with quality stuff and really need to introduce organic matieral into the lawn.

Current Plan -
1. Next week, Aerate (rent)
2. Within a week after (depending on my schedule) - SliceSeed with a good cultivar, putting proper shade seed and sun seed in appropriate locations.
Immediately after seeding, fertilize using _________(??)
3. Trim trees in shady areas to let some more sun through.
4. 4-6 weeks after seeding, attack broad leaf weeks using ____ (TBD).
Winterize and Lime.

Any major flaws?

THANKS SO MUCH for all your advice!!!
Correction on #2 go in and slice seed as soon as you can after aeration. Schedule lawns so you can aerate in the morning and slit seed them in the afternoon. The cutting action of the seeder will break up the cores giving your seed better seed / soil effectiveness. Weeds should take care of themselves this time of year save the money for the broadleaf app. Do it in the spring after the first mowing.
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  #25  
Old 09-05-2013, 03:11 PM
anon4once anon4once is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Stamford, CT
Posts: 9
I aerated yesterday morning, and slit seeded in the afternoon. Some areas of my soil were so packed/clay the aerator didn't even scratch the surface. The slice seeder broke up the top layer a little, but I think I'm going to need to really get in those areas with a tiller and mix in some compost to introduce organic material. (I probably should have soaked those areas 24 hours in advance, but it was too late once I had the machine)

The places my soil was sparsest were the same areas the aerate wouldn't puncture, so I did learn alot about my lawn in this process.

Overall, I'm happy with the work yesterday and only time will tell how it turns out. I ended up using Lesco Teammates Athletic in the sunny areas, and their Connecticut shade mix in the shaded areas, and mixed of both of those (using broadcast spreader) in the transition area after slit seeding.

I ended up paying $68 for the aerator, $68 for the seeder, and $190 for 100# of seed. I thought I was going to have a ton of seed left, but I really couldn't control the seed flow on the rental seeder - even in the closed position it was pissing out seed - I think I definitely put more seed down than needed.

This part of CT is $$$$ (but I'm poor). Local guys wanted $375-$450 to aerate, so I saved a ton by doing this myself and really appreciate everyone's input and time. (I got a good workout too!)
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  #26  
Old 09-06-2013, 09:30 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Location: Central Wisconsin
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Cover the hardpan areas with generous amounts of compost, even if it is just a few bags in small areas and there will be a noticeable change by Spring...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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aeration , connecticut , fall , powerseed , winter

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