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  #31  
Old 09-12-2013, 07:39 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazersandWildcats2009 View Post
Smallaxe,

I'm new to this so any information I receive is news to me. I understand what you mean as far as making sure the roots are not growing in mud. But I was instructed to keep the soil "moist". The problem with keeping the soil moist, is when temperatures soar 100 degrees in September, then there comes the question am I letting my new sod dry out? Am I keeping the soil moist. So then you obviously have to resort to watering weird schedules. When the temperatures are soaring the water is disappearing into the air. Then I then get paranoid about watering? I'm going to go ahead and spread out tuna cans today. The weather has been calling for rain from a Tropical Storm for four days straight. I've watched it go from Sunny to Thundering with no rain to sunny. We got a quick shower yesterday, then right back to sunny. I think I got it figured out though, I'm going to just keep the soil moist for the first two weeks three times a day, temperatures should be dropping in the next few days) I'm going to cut the rain to two times a day depending on rain. And slowly reduce from there.
What I was referring to was tugging up on the grass to see if it is rooted in soil yet... if the sod lifts right up I would visually inspect the soil itself to see if it is greasy and void of air or if it is of a moist yet airy consistency...
What I do for sensitive vegetation in the heat of the day is "Syringe" with a cool water shower,,, w/out adding too much water to the soil...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #32  
Old 09-12-2013, 08:53 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlazersandWildcats2009 View Post
Agrostics, what could white on the grass blades be from in one area of the lawn? Some of them are the tip and some like the middle of the grass blades?
I have no idea. That's pretty vague, be much more descriptive, post close-up picture's if you can.
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  #33  
Old 09-13-2013, 02:19 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
I have no idea. That's pretty vague, be much more descriptive, post close-up picture's if you can.
Agrostics, sorry I was to vague with my description. The white area is infecting what seems to be the blades of the grass. The areas are blotchy, no particular size and shape. They appear in many parts of the blades. Here is some more pictures let me know if this helps out any more.








Let me know exactly what you need a picture of if you need any more and I'll take them ASAP. I made a trip this morning to Callagan's Feed Store an hour away and was able to find the aluminum sulfate to help with the Alkaline soil also. Could this potentially help any?

Thanks!

Last edited by BlazersandWildcats2009; 09-13-2013 at 02:25 PM.
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  #34  
Old 09-13-2013, 03:31 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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So I narrowed it down to either too much nitrogen and burning the grass or fungi from being to wet. And they both need to be fixed in the opposite direction. Either more water, water, water, or less water, water, water.
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  #35  
Old 09-13-2013, 04:02 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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I'm not sure what that is, but i don't see stunting, wilting or yellowing in the grass around that. Even the grass blade's with the white spot's on them look healthy. The soil alkalinity may have something to do with that, so may the water, the soil or the fertilizer, it's hard to say. I would just watch it. It's really hard to diagnose any kind of turfgrass disease or mechanical damage over the internet (even with good close-up picture's), so to be on the safe side, and for your peace of mind, send a sample (and find out just what is a proper sample) to these people.

http://plantclinic.tamu.edu/

I think this is the right link. If this isn't your state funded university, then that is who want for cheap, accurate testing. They aren't far from you. Testing for in-state resident's is probably free or very cheap. Just be aware that it is probably slow, (like 4-6 week's) but you will know for sure. Guessing at this kind of thing can be huge waste of time and money, so do it right the first time.
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  #36  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:09 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Agrostics,

I went ahead and called them today. I'm going to send a sample off early this coming week to the A&M Research Center. After hours and hours or research and watching and looking at the grass closely, and also speaking with a local lawn person, I have a strong, strong, gut feeling telling me that it's Powdery Mildew. After looking on several websites, resources, and Google Images I see exact identical properties when compared to the images in Google. Also, being under the oak, the humid temperatures, high grass, and also the new privacy fence around the front, seems like it could restrict airflow and oxygen. Along with the humid and hot temperatures and water, I have a Gut feeling also telling me this is my issue.
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  #37  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:28 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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When it come's to turfgrass disease's, they are just to numerous and complicated to guess at. Trust me on this, i've been growing grass for more than 25 year's and while i can be pretty accurate on a lot of disease's i know that the lab can do a better job than i can and i will defer to them almost every time.

I'm glad your sending off a sample. How long will it take to get a answer? How much did it cost? See what i mean about air movement? Most people don't realize how important that is.
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  #38  
Old 09-14-2013, 06:33 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
When it come's to turfgrass disease's, they are just to numerous and complicated to guess at. Trust me on this, i've been growing grass for more than 25 year's and while i can be pretty accurate on a lot of disease's i know that the lab can do a better job than i can and i will defer to them almost every time.

I'm glad your sending off a sample. How long will it take to get a answer? How much did it cost? See what i mean about air movement? Most people don't realize how important that is.
Agrostics,

I completely understand what you mean. As much research as I did, I find there are so many varieties of diseases, some that infect certain grasses, some that infect many types of grasses. Much of them are close and hard to tell. As for the sample, I'm going with TAMU (University of A&M). They only charge $10. bucks, which is much less than I was thinking. I found the ammonia sulfate you was speaking up at Callahan's a few days ago, I suppose I should wait to send and receive the new soil test results first before I go putting anything on it. I'm pretty sure I'm still on the Alkine side, but I did add a bunch of compost and organic matter before laying. Maybe that possibly helped me a bit, but I suppose not enough to get me exactly where I want to be.

As for the spots on the leaf I have no early clue, but I suspect very highly that it was fungi. Too tell you the funny thing is it's completely gone. It's not visible in the grass whatsoever when I look at it closely. I did cut back on the water to once in the morning and once in the even. I started watering about two hours earlier in the evening to make sure to give the leaves time to dry before the sun goes down. It seems as if the slower areas in rooting are now taking root. The grass is growing thick, but is competing for weeds. Looks almost as if some type of wheat weeds or something you would see in the country. But I'm just going to let it do it's thing and hopefully it will help when I'm able to mow it and get the height adjusted. The temperatures are in the low 90's now, and the 80's fast follow the low 90's. So hopefully within the next few months the summer weeds will die down. I plan to weight to spray until next Spring like you said. I defiantly see what you mean by air movement. I think seeding would have been a much worse off option. I'll keep you updated.
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  #39  
Old 09-14-2013, 06:47 PM
turfmd101 turfmd101 is offline
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I'm guessing fert burn. N.
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  #40  
Old 09-14-2013, 06:53 PM
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BlazersandWildcats2009 BlazersandWildcats2009 is offline
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[QUOTE=agrostis;4861627]I'm not sure what that is, but i don't see stunting, wilting or yellowing in the grass around that. Even the grass blade's with the white spot's on them look healthy. The soil alkalinity may have something to do with that, so may the water, the soil or the fertilizer, it's hard to say. I would just watch it. It's really hard to diagnose any kind of turfgrass disease or mechanical damage over the internet (even with good close-up picture's), so to be on the safe side, and for your peace of mind, send a sample (and find out just what is a proper sample) to these people.



It looks like it's healthy and thick, huh? I know I'm going to have to do several mow applications before I can get it down to the right height, especially being so thick. I didn't want the fungi (if that's what it is) to spread any further. So I tried an organic method, from my understanding can't harm the grass. I applied 20 lbs of cornmeal and sprayed an application of 1 cup of milk for if the fact that I was having mold issues. Either way, I couldn't find a way that would explain that either of these would harm, but have seen that many people have had successful results with both of them. I'll let you know how the next 30 days go and surely by then I'll be cutting. I found a local shop that sharpens blades. I'm going to pick up new ones and alternate getting them sharpened every two mowings. Eventually, maybe I can catch me a Reel mower on CL.
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