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  #21  
Old 09-25-2013, 11:04 AM
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phasthound phasthound is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
It is about time that the "Scholarly" thinking caught up with the real world... I noticed on lawns that were definitely faded, when I applied Oct. 3rd the grass changed color; the lawns applied on Oct. 23rd that year,,, received no visible benefit, even though the grass was green all winter...
Much has been discovered since then...

As far as putting down "Slow-Release" and the prills surviving Winter,,, Is that any different from a new Spring App. of N when it rains???
The slow release I'm referring to comes from the organic matter contained in a bridge fertilizer, not prills.
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  #22  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:03 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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WIN from organic sources would probably last just as long as coated synthetics. Remember, N release for coated synthetics is mediated by temperature, so release is slow when its cold and faster when its hot. WIN N from organic sources is mediated by microbial activity -- essentially temperature and moisture. When moisture is not limiting, WIN releases slower when its cold and faster when its hot.

I don't think there's much difference between the two when it comes to overwintering.
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  #23  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:21 PM
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Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipster View Post
WIN from organic sources would probably last just as long as coated synthetics. Remember, N release for coated synthetics is mediated by temperature, so release is slow when its cold and faster when its hot. WIN N from organic sources is mediated by microbial activity -- essentially temperature and moisture. When moisture is not limiting, WIN releases slower when its cold and faster when its hot.

I don't think there's much difference between the two when it comes to overwintering.
Would I be correct in saying that skipping out on a organic based fert for Fall makes more sense in favor of a synthetic product with slow release or even fast release due to added cost of product....? Pound for pound synthetic has more N value for the dollar.

Especially if a client insists on Spring power racking and haul off...?

In repeated tests....my experience has been a low mow in the Spring and even leaving the debris in place promotes a faster green up than the power racking/ dethacth drill.

Many on lawnsite make a chunk of change on this spring service and regardless of facts or what is best for the lawn...will continue to do this service for cash flow.
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  #24  
Old 09-25-2013, 09:01 PM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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This is a good thread.

If I may add, how is a coated synthetic fert going to last all winter in snowbound areas? We frequently get some freeze/thaws in the winter. If that fert is underneath 6" of snow, it is at or slightly above 32 degrees in there. Probably a bit warmer on those freak warm winter days of 40+. Nitrogen has to be leaching downward a lot of that time. And if the plants aren't using it, bingo, wasted. Any thoughts?

This is not to mention the melt off we get in March, the N waste during that time has to be tremendous.
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  #25  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:43 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS View Post
... If I may add, how is a coated synthetic fert going to last all winter in snowbound areas? We frequently get some freeze/thaws in the winter. If that fert is underneath 6" of snow, it is at or slightly above 32 degrees in there. Probably a bit warmer on those freak warm winter days of 40+. Nitrogen has to be leaching downward a lot of that time. And if the plants aren't using it, bingo, wasted. Any thoughts?

This is not to mention the melt off we get in March, the N waste during that time has to be tremendous.
I start Spring cleanup with a blower as soon as the surface gets warm enough during the day to unfreeze the leaves frozen to the grass... I found the prills from the previous season still intact lying amongst the grasses... it took about 2 or 3 rains before they were gone...
So mypoint would be,,, What difference is there if I put those prills down as soon as the snow was gone or if I put those prills down in Oct??? Isn't the end result N on the surface ,,, causing more root growth there,instead of roots growing down looking for water???

In my experience, slow release N that lasts till Spring is no different than an application of N as soon as the snow is gone... I don't care if it is organic N or synthetic N,,, Spring N is NOT a good thing for cool season grasses... even the extension offices are finally coming around to that conclusion... Once they learned to Ask the Right Question,they've been a benefit to healthier turf...
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  #26  
Old 09-26-2013, 02:27 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Here is some science about nitrogen fate urea applied at different times of the year. It is clear the 5 lbs urea results in excess in ground water...but...less than 4 pounds applied leaves the ground water at lower nitrate levels, drinkable levels.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...53217764,d.b2I

Referring to the original posters question about timing for crabgrass control, air temps of 70 consistently would be OK, but perhaps a bit late. Companies that have several weeks worth of crabgrass control to complete in the spring, usually start well before that...more like at the date of the first mowing. This link shows the best dates for crabgrass control--divided into early, target, and late. Other pests treatment dates are also shown. Around here we used to say:"Anytime in April."
http://www.gddtracker.net/

Last edited by RigglePLC; 09-26-2013 at 02:36 PM. Reason: link
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