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  #21  
Old 04-13-2007, 02:09 PM
pugs pugs is offline
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I dont think they use the same coils on the other system...but Kohler makes whats called "Smart Spark". The modules look very similar to the regular ones and the system uses a 3rd external "black box" that advances/******s the timing of the ignition system. I know those modules have a few connections on them, but I never looked to see if those modules are used in applications that do not use the Smart Spark box.
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  #22  
Old 10-18-2013, 01:05 PM
esignman esignman is offline
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My Problem Exactly....kind of

This thread is pretty old. I hope the contributors are still around. I have the exact same symptoms. Same tractor, (GT5000), same engine CV730. The only difference being that I've never removed the kill wire from the suspet ignition module but you better believe that I'm going to check it tonight. I had a mouse problem. They ate all the insulation from every wire under the hood and they ate clean through an ignition wire. I replaced the eaten ignition wire with a new module but never touched the other module. So from what I've read: after I confirm the IM kill wires are on the correct terminals, the next step would be to replace the plugs. Failing a resolution here, should I replace the second ignition module? A little expensive to shotgun tho....Oh, I'm not sure that I understand what I'm looking for with the timing light....
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  #23  
Old 10-18-2013, 09:06 PM
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Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esignman View Post
This thread is pretty old. I hope the contributors are still around. I have the exact same symptoms. Same tractor, (GT5000), same engine CV730. The only difference being that I've never removed the kill wire from the suspet ignition module but you better believe that I'm going to check it tonight. I had a mouse problem. They ate all the insulation from every wire under the hood and they ate clean through an ignition wire. I replaced the eaten ignition wire with a new module but never touched the other module. So from what I've read: after I confirm the IM kill wires are on the correct terminals, the next step would be to replace the plugs. Failing a resolution here, should I replace the second ignition module? A little expensive to shotgun tho....Oh, I'm not sure that I understand what I'm looking for with the timing light....
esignman,

What are ALL the numbers off your engine, Model, Spec. and Serial?

The reason I ask is Kohler has used several different coils/setups through the years. Depending on which version coils you have, it is possible that you may pay more for one coil of an older style that are prone to fail then to upgrade both coils to the almost bullet proof style they have gone back to that had almost no failures... Unless, mice eat the wires.
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  #24  
Old 10-19-2013, 07:55 PM
esignman esignman is offline
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Numbers

Hi Jeff,

Model CV730S
Spec: 0017
Serial:3326617101
OEM Product Number:185615

The new Ignition Module that replaced the "eaten" module is 24-584-45-S CDI FIXED.

I also installed a new breather and breather hose, (old hose was cracked). I took the cover off last night and my wiring to the kill wire is the same on both sides. It goes to the single terminal. The other side of the IM has a double terminal, (unused).

My next step will likely be replacing the plugs, just because....

Do you think my remaining/old IM is bad or weak? Is there a way to test this?

thanks__mike
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  #25  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:38 PM
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Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esignman View Post
Hi Jeff,

Model CV730S
Spec: 0017
Serial:3326617101
OEM Product Number:185615

The new Ignition Module that replaced the "eaten" module is 24-584-45-S CDI FIXED.

I also installed a new breather and breather hose, (old hose was cracked). I took the cover off last night and my wiring to the kill wire is the same on both sides. It goes to the single terminal. The other side of the IM has a double terminal, (unused).

My next step will likely be replacing the plugs, just because....

Do you think my remaining/old IM is bad or weak? Is there a way to test this?

thanks__mike
Mike,

I didn't forget about you... I will check the info I have at work, but I'm pretty sure the coil you have just has 1 terminal on it with a white ground wire to kill it... You say there are 3 terminals, but only one terminal is being used?
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  #26  
Old 10-20-2013, 09:17 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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I believe you're right Jeff....the coil he just bought is a standard induction coil...
If the other coil has 2 or 3 prongs on it...something is amiss....I'm guessing there's a black ignition box on it too...
To identify which ignition setup yo,u should have....identify the flywheel..
Near the flywheel bolt ....there will be a drilled indent...a drilled thru hole...or no drilled marks at all..
No drilled marks....standard coils...1 prong coils
Drilled indentation.....SAM ignition...2 prong sam coils..
Drilled thru hole.....DSAM ignition ...2 prong dsam coils...
Ventilated slots in flywheel...DSAI ignition....3 prong dsai coils..
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2013, 07:22 AM
esignman esignman is offline
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Coil pics

Here's a picture of the new coil. It looks exactly the same as the old coil. It's installed upside down in relation to other coil. The white wire is attached to the bottom terminal, (you can't see it here) on the top, which you can see are two other terminals that are unused. Piston Slapper, the only way for what you're saying to be true is that if I got this from Sears with the wrong coils. Possible I guess but it did run correctly for several years.

The original problem in this thread from Strysnie had three terminals as well and he found that he had put the wire on the incorrect terminal. I have the three terminals but the wire is correctly placed.

Jeff, I have to travel for work this week but will be watching this thread. I just won't be able to try anything.

It looks like this site won't accept a jpg and I have to catch a plane and cannot figure this out at the moment. I'll try to add the pic later.

Thanks__esignman
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2013, 07:44 AM
esignman esignman is offline
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Coil Pics

Ok, got a handle on uploading pics. The first pic is of the original and remaining coil. You can see that the kill wire is attached to the single terminal on the top. If you look closely you'll see two more unused terminals on the bottom. The second pic is of the coil I just replaced. You can see the two unused terminals on the top. Like I said, they are exactly the same physically. Hope this sheds some light.

esignman
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  #29  
Old 10-21-2013, 09:28 AM
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Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esignman View Post
Here's a picture of the new coil. It looks exactly the same as the old coil. It's installed upside down in relation to other coil. The white wire is attached to the bottom terminal, (you can't see it here) on the top, which you can see are two other terminals that are unused. Piston Slapper, the only way for what you're saying to be true is that if I got this from Sears with the wrong coils. Possible I guess but it did run correctly for several years.

The original problem in this thread from Strysnie had three terminals as well and he found that he had put the wire on the incorrect terminal. I have the three terminals but the wire is correctly placed.

Jeff, I have to travel for work this week but will be watching this thread. I just won't be able to try anything.

It looks like this site won't accept a jpg and I have to catch a plane and cannot figure this out at the moment. I'll try to add the pic later.

Thanks__esignman
Quote:
Originally Posted by esignman View Post
Ok, got a handle on uploading pics. The first pic is of the original and remaining coil. You can see that the kill wire is attached to the single terminal on the top. If you look closely you'll see two more unused terminals on the bottom. The second pic is of the coil I just replaced. You can see the two unused terminals on the top. Like I said, they are exactly the same physically. Hope this sheds some light.

esignman
Mike,

Ok, I see where the confusion is from now...

First off, the correct coil for your engine is in fact the 24 584 45-S which has a single push on terminal.

The "other two terminals" that you see are NOT terminals, but rather grounding legs from inside the coil that are spot welded to the laminations.

For reference, here are a few pictures of the coils... 1 verses 3 terminals (I didn't pull a 2 terminal coil).
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  #30  
Old 10-21-2013, 01:23 PM
esignman esignman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in AL View Post
Mike,

Ok, I see where the confusion is from now...

First off, the correct coil for your engine is in fact the 24 584 45-S which has a single push on terminal.

The "other two terminals" that you see are NOT terminals, but rather grounding legs from inside the coil that are spot welded to the laminations.

For reference, here are a few pictures of the coils... 1 verses 3 terminals (I didn't pull a 2 terminal coil).
Ok, so at least I'm working with the correct parts. Thank you for looking that up!
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