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  #1  
Old 11-29-2013, 06:23 PM
dnrsslr dnrsslr is offline
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Spark Plug for FH601V BPR4ES vs BPR5ES

I have a Kawasaki 19 HP FH601V CS13. (Actually, it's more like a 23 HP because I had the throttle shaft modified!) Anyhow, it ran fine Wednesday morning but Thursday morning it would not start. It cranked for awhile, popped once or twice then the battery died. I charged the battery and tried again but it wouldn't start. So, I got a new battery, new air filter and new spark plugs and it started better than it has for a long time. Better than ever!? When I changed the plugs, I saw the ones I took out were BPR4ES and the ones the dealer gave me are BPR5ES. What is the difference between these plugs? partstree.com and repairclinic.com both seem to say the BPR5ES is correct but other sites say BPR4ES. Is the BPR5ES "hotter"? Is that why it started better?

Also, one of the old plugs was wet with either gas or oil when I took it out. It that significant?
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Old 11-29-2013, 07:23 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Here's a little read for ya; http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...k_plugs/p2.asp

It likely started better because you removed the fouled spark plug...... When's the last time you checked/adjusted the valves ?

Per Kawi, It should be done every 300 hrs......
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:00 PM
dnrsslr dnrsslr is offline
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Thanks, at that link I found out the only difference between these two plugs is the "5" is a colder plug. How will this affect operation?

I just found out the filter and plugs were changed 4 years ago which was about 170 hours of mowing and about 20 hours of blowing snow. I wonder if the air filter was plugged?

By "adjust the valves", do you mean the clearance of the rocker arms under the valve covers? I think I did that about 135 hours ago but I'm not sure. Would you hear them "clacking" if they need adjusted?
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dnrsslr View Post
Thanks, at that link I found out the only difference between these two plugs is the "5" is a colder plug. How will this affect operation? One step shouldn't hurt a thing.....

I just found out the filter and plugs were changed 4 years ago which was about 170 hours of mowing and about 20 hours of blowing snow. I wonder if the air filter was plugged? There's no tell'n.....

By "adjust the valves", do you mean the clearance of the rocker arms under the valve covers? Yes.....I think I did that about 135 hours ago but I'm not sure. Would you hear them "clacking" if they need adjusted?In most cases no......

If you did the valves that shouldn't be a issue now, Since you've done these things just run it and see how it does.......
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2013, 09:03 PM
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Breezmister Breezmister is offline
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Originally Posted by Restrorob View Post
Another good read Restro !
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2013, 09:53 PM
dnrsslr dnrsslr is offline
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Restrorob, thanks for your help and info!
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  #7  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Breezmister View Post
Another good read Restro !

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrsslr View Post
Restrorob, thanks for your help and info!


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  #8  
Old 01-04-2014, 10:14 PM
dnrsslr dnrsslr is offline
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New problem? I tried to start the tractor again a few days ago so it would have been sitting for about a month. The temperature was about 10 degrees. It cranked over for awhile, kind of slow, but it would not fire at all! I finally gave up. Then, the next day, I heated the shed to about 45 degrees for about 5 hours (and put the battery charger on) and the tractor started VERY easily! Is it possible the BPR4ES sparks "hotter" to help it start when the tractor is cold? After I ran the tractor about 30 minutes, when I idled the tractor is ran rough and stalled!

Maybe I have a "weak" spark. Is there any way to test that? Bad coil or something in that system?

Last edited by dnrsslr; 01-04-2014 at 10:18 PM.
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  #9  
Old 01-04-2014, 11:36 PM
pugs pugs is online now
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Put some Champion 322's in it and be done with it.

As far as cold starting, make sure your choke is closing ALL THE WAY. Kawasaki's will not start well cold without full choke. Also if you are storing it without heat make sure you have changed the oil to something they recommend for winter use and have a good battery. Otherwise it may not crank fast enough to fire.
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  #10  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrsslr View Post
New problem?
You have a cold problem....

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrsslr View Post
The temperature was about 10 degrees. It cranked over for awhile,
kind of slow, but it would not fire at all! I finally gave up. Then, the next day, I heated the shed to about
45 degrees for about 5 hours (and put the battery charger on) and the tractor started VERY easily!
You warmed up the oil ( I'm sure it was like mollasses) and chaged the battery, it was weak or old or both...

Everthing that we have that needs to start in the winter here is South Jersey (it was 8 degrees here yeaterday)
gets 5w30 and if it has a battery, (Walker with a snowthrower) it gets a new battery if it is over 2 years old.....
We keep our diesels plugged in or in the heated shop....

If you want it to start in these cold temps, change the oil to 5w30 if that is not in it already, put fresh
winterized gas in it, make sure that the bettery is fully charged. Like Pugs said, check the choke
And if you can keep it warm......You should never have a problem starting it.......
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