Register free!


Reply
 
Thread Tools   Display Modes
  #51  
Old 01-05-2014, 09:48 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 7,428
Things not dying is a clue. I am aware of the nuances involved in public area weed control. Johnson grass hit with Arsenal or Velpar does not grow back. I have what is called Napier grass and itch grass in Hawaii. Those grasses are inherently resistant to glyphosate. A treatment with glyphosate normally partially kills it only to have it grow back from the clump. 1 qt per acre of Arsenal kills it and keeps it dead.
__________________
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin 1775

Sell not virtue to purchase wealth, nor Liberty to purchase power.
Benjamin Franklin Poor Richard's Almanac1738
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 01-05-2014, 09:51 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 7,428
My expectation for roadside weed control in a subtropical area is at least 6 months of bare ground. No vines, grasses or invasive trees coming back in an area treated with herbicides. In a temperate area with seasons, the expectation is for year long control.
__________________
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin 1775

Sell not virtue to purchase wealth, nor Liberty to purchase power.
Benjamin Franklin Poor Richard's Almanac1738
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:48 PM
ted putnam's Avatar
ted putnam ted putnam is offline
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4,172
Quote:
Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
Good point. A set of effective broadcast applications means I will not need to apply more for the rest of the year. No need to even spot spray. My impression of lawns that are spot sprayed is that the weeds are never gone. I will apply to less than the total area if that is what is going to work. It is not exactly a spot spray because it is an application over a patch of weeds and several feet around that patch.
Greendoctor. I wanted to respond to this the other night but found myself waiting for a couple of answers from Skipster. I guess I'm not going to get them from him.

If I were in your situation(12 month growing season), it would seem that once I had a lawn thickened and weed free, I would most likely find it unnecessary to apply much if any pre's except in high pressure areas of certain lawns. I mean once they are established and stay on your program, there should really be no need for pre's right?...just regular maintenance that includes spot spraying.

The only thing living in our bermudas at least 3 months of the year are stolons and rhizomes in the thatch layer. This leaves the lawns susceptible to seed germination of broadleaf weeds all the way from the time they are going in to until the time they are fully out of dormancy. IMO, pre's are absolutely necessary here. If not for the crabgrass, for everything else that is looking for a way in when the bermudas are at their weakest...
__________________
"The Poor Fish" circa 1930's: The Poor Fish wouldn't have been caught if he'd known enough to keep his fool mouth shut.

"Opportunity is missed by most because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work"- Thomas Edison, businessman/inventor
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:58 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 777
This thread isn't supposed to be about me. I wanted to better understand what other LCOs thought about herbicide resistance. You guys helped me understand that.

But, I am still here. So, what questions do I need to answer?
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 01-08-2014, 11:58 PM
ted putnam's Avatar
ted putnam ted putnam is offline
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 4,172
Never mind Skip.No need to argue. There are plenty here who spent the time and have bothered to read my post and they see the same things in their areas.

We know the truth...

I'm done here.
__________________
"The Poor Fish" circa 1930's: The Poor Fish wouldn't have been caught if he'd known enough to keep his fool mouth shut.

"Opportunity is missed by most because it is dressed in overalls and looks like work"- Thomas Edison, businessman/inventor
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 01-09-2014, 03:13 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 7,428
Quote:
Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Greendoctor. I wanted to respond to this the other night but found myself waiting for a couple of answers from Skipster. I guess I'm not going to get them from him.

If I were in your situation(12 month growing season), it would seem that once I had a lawn thickened and weed free, I would most likely find it unnecessary to apply much if any pre's except in high pressure areas of certain lawns. I mean once they are established and stay on your program, there should really be no need for pre's right?...just regular maintenance that includes spot spraying.

The only thing living in our bermudas at least 3 months of the year are stolons and rhizomes in the thatch layer. This leaves the lawns susceptible to seed germination of broadleaf weeds all the way from the time they are going in to until the time they are fully out of dormancy. IMO, pre's are absolutely necessary here. If not for the crabgrass, for everything else that is looking for a way in when the bermudas are at their weakest...
I do have some rare zoysia lawns that do not belong where they are because there is barely enough sun for them during the "summer" months. In the "winter", the sun shifts and the days get short causing the lawn to be light deprived. Those are the lawns that are treated with a grass preemergent and Gallery in November. Failure to do so results in crabgrass and broadleaf weeds everywhere. Those people are cut a lot of slack by me because what is causing this problem are trees surrounding the lawn. My instructions concerning irrigation and mowing are followed. The trees are only strike one.

You are quite right about a thick lawn. My idea of thick is complete coverage of the soil and no stems or stolons visible. Stems or stolons visible means the height of cut is wrong. Which is why I have a cow when St Augustine is scalped and bermuda or zoysia is cut over an inch.

In a well managed lawn, the only thing that comes up is purple nutsedge. Its emergence is fostered by rain followed by hot weather. Removal of that normally takes 2 years. Thinking past just killing leaves and understanding the weed helps. That is a weed I do not spot spray. Effective herbicides are also active through the soil, so not treating the whole area leaves the weed free to emerge elsewhere.
__________________
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin 1775

Sell not virtue to purchase wealth, nor Liberty to purchase power.
Benjamin Franklin Poor Richard's Almanac1738
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 01-09-2014, 09:37 AM
rcreech's Avatar
rcreech rcreech is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: OHIO
Posts: 5,717
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skipster View Post
This thread isn't supposed to be about me. I wanted to better understand what other LCOs thought about herbicide resistance. You guys helped me understand that.

But, I am still here. So, what questions do I need to answer?
We have asked you many questions and you have yet to answer any of them. You just keep spewing inaccurate information.

Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 01-09-2014, 10:17 AM
Skipster Skipster is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 777
If you have any additional questions, ask them here. I'm not dodging the questions, but I'm also not going to sort back through older posts to figure out what you want. If you still have a question, simply ask it here.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:49 AM.

Page generated in 0.07084 seconds with 9 queries