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  #11  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:25 PM
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1idejim 1idejim is online now
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Originally Posted by kellanv View Post
Will do. Hose bib flow rate of 3.5 should not have been affected however.



Apparently I am the 4th irrigator to try to figure this out so no, it likely hasn't been working well in recent years.



I believe I have done most of them but I am obviously still learning. I'm trying not to half-ass and actually learn how to troubleshoot these sorts of things which is the reason I asked here. I have not seen such a disparity between static/dynamic before. I found the bad PRV as part of my investigation so at least I'm making progress.
Place a tap saddle as close to the meter as possible. Install a temporary HB there to test the meter. I find it hard to believe that a muni supply only delivers 3-5 gpm. Without proceeding any further I would test the meter in this manner.

Next I think I'd knock on a few doors and ask if you could compare their meter flow with the results of your test. Offer them ten bucks for a couple buckets of water.

Kellan, you can figure out what your problem is fairly fast and without too much effort. Just break the system into segments and isolate each segment. Meter - PRV- DCVA- supply line to house - mainline to irrigation system.
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:40 PM
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Sprinkus Sprinkus is offline
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What type of DCA? Have you had it tested to make sure that the checks aren't stuck partially closed/open?
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2014, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
Place a tap saddle as close to the meter as possible. Install a temporary HB there to test the meter. I find it hard to believe that a muni supply only delivers 3-5 gpm. Without proceeding any further I would test the meter in this manner.

Next I think I'd knock on a few doors and ask if you could compare their meter flow with the results of your test. Offer them ten bucks for a couple buckets of water.

Kellan, you can figure out what your problem is fairly fast and without too much effort. Just break the system into segments and isolate each segment. Meter - PRV- DCVA- supply line to house - mainline to irrigation system.
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I neglected to mention that when I use a tap saddle, I use stainless hose clamps in addition to glue just for S&G. Helps me sleep better. Once the test has been completed I can remove the HB and plug the tap.

Something that you have said is the bucket test of 3.5 gpm was at the house and the dcva is isolated from the house supply. The dcva may be bad but that has nothing to do with the test at the house. The meter looks suspicious to me.
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2014, 11:00 PM
kellanv kellanv is offline
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Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
Something that you have said is the bucket test of 3.5 gpm was at the house and the dcva is isolated from the house supply. The dcva may be bad but that has nothing to do with the test at the house. The meter looks suspicious to me.
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That's where my mind has been going. I will get the DCVA checked but it has nothing to do with similar things I'm seeing with the hose bib. I will do as you mentioned and try to isolate the meter and see.

Thanks for the help.
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2014, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kellanv View Post
That's where my mind has been going. I will get the DCVA checked but it has nothing to do with similar things I'm seeing with the hose bib. I will do as you mentioned and try to isolate the meter and see.

Thanks for the help.
You're not trying, you're doing. Anytime you begin at the source and prove your way out, you're isolating each segment without closing anything down.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2014, 11:42 PM
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I've heard of people removing the meter and sticking in a straight pipe to check if the meter is defective.
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2014, 01:15 AM
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mitchgo mitchgo is offline
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Originally Posted by Sprinkus View Post
I've heard of people removing the meter and sticking in a straight pipe to check if the meter is defective.
How the hell are you man?!

I had one a few months ago I did that. My flow was like 8GPM with the meter removed and I shoulda got like 40. The WD came out and dug up the line prior to the meter and found out that the tap in the main water supply wasn't fully tapped in. They fixed it and resolved my all my problems with the irrigation system.

To the OP. Keep up the good work! Like Jim says. Keep it simple, don't over speculate too in depth just yet and start at your sources .. Isolating.. Verify and confirm.
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2014, 07:36 AM
ArTurf ArTurf is online now
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Originally Posted by mitchgo View Post
How the hell are you man?!

I had one a few months ago I did that. My flow was like 8GPM with the meter removed and I shoulda got like 40. The WD came out and dug up the line prior to the meter and found out that the tap in the main water supply wasn't fully tapped in. They fixed it and resolved my all my problems with the irrigation system.

To the OP. Keep up the good work! Like Jim says. Keep it simple, don't over speculate too in depth just yet and start at your sources .. Isolating.. Verify and confirm.
I had this happen one time also. Bad line from main to meter. I had the water company test it.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:00 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is online now
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Im going to guess that you are looking for a problem. Im also going to guess that what you actualy have is several problems.
1 its an old system, quite a good chance all valves are weeping.
2 zones were originally overloaded and system never did work quite right
3 handle on backflow my be turning but ball valve is not , keeping it partialy closed.

Can you see what the difference is from the tap to the hosebib? If they are coming off the same plumbing and all you have is 3 -1/2 gpm. that is where to start.
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:04 AM
Without A Drought Without A Drought is online now
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hose bibs can be quite restrictive as well, giving a false reading. especially if its a frost free, i usually don't see more than 5 or 6 GPM and as low as 3.
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