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  #11  
Old 03-04-2014, 09:13 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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no hint septic smell,

unfortunately, despite many offers, and though I like to think that atleast several folks consider me their go to guy on the "irrigation only side", my early mowing customers will seemingly always imagine that my abilitys as an licensed irrigatior have been perminately hindered by me having experience with routine mowing/maintenance lol.


people...
Someday they will know i mean business. It breaks my heart to see the work left behind by some irrigators, within the yards that I still mow. Sure Sure I have more early days and hack work still ahead of me,

but its odd to consider how customer psychology works.... especially with the irrigation shamelessness i have seen left behind on my mow route.

(and as only fair, thanks to the vets that are much better than me, from whose beautiful work I may learn from)
Something tells me they know who they are...

Last edited by RhettMan; 03-04-2014 at 09:17 PM. Reason: Until i win them on irrigtion, maybe i can win them on drainage (which i know absolutely nothing about.) yet.
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  #12  
Old 03-05-2014, 09:06 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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If it is an irrigation issue, fix the irrigation. Why would you put in drainage to fix a problem with irrigation management/design? If the problem is due to lot drainage, then you might consider drainage solutions.
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2014, 01:41 PM
kellanv kellanv is online now
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Is it a run-off issue or ground water issue? Since you mentioned clay soils, if its a runoff issue, it could be a matter of reducing run time or cycling the run time on that zone.

If its a "the ground is holding water for weeks with no rain and no irrigation" issue, drainage might be a solution.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2014, 06:15 PM
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1idejim 1idejim is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
If it is an irrigation issue, fix the irrigation. Why would you put in drainage to fix a problem with irrigation management/design? If the problem is due to lot drainage, then you might consider drainage solutions.
well said.

Another thought is checking both meters for a slight leak. It's possible that one of the properties has a slight crack with a low volume output.

If the problem is drainage I would suggest consulting an engineer.

I'm curious why the city was called about the situation to begin with.
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  #15  
Old 03-06-2014, 03:00 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post

If the problem is drainage I would suggest consulting an engineer.

I'm curious why the city was called about the situation to begin with.
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Thats why i have contacted you james.

bc thats what homeowners, hoping to save money, do first. (as yall might say : look no further into this, there is no opportunity here. )
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  #16  
Old 03-06-2014, 03:08 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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I cant touch the irrigation, bc,

even if i did have lamenated pressure loss charts, and lamenated nozzle performance data for most professional products, with individual copys for: my trailer, truck, and breifcase. ....

I still like to mow yards, as you know.

Which of course, rules me out.

and, not able to without doubt rule out possibility that issue is from "non-arromatic sewage" or neighboring lawn water charity.
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  #17  
Old 03-06-2014, 04:55 PM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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You need to break through the hard pan in the lawn.

An NDS flow well, or even simple augured holes in the lawn will alleviate the problem.



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  #18  
Old 03-06-2014, 07:21 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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I have been wanting to try a dry well for a while now, but dont know much about them.
Whatever I do, must work, how convinced are you, considering what i have thought to mention regarding this saturation, of the "guaranteedness" of success of the water relocation to and from those points?

To help me get an idea of (NDS) strength.....supposed a 3/4ton truck (for whatever crazy reason) drives directly over the top of completed and backfilled well?

Is it to be expected that the top will simple give way under the load of the trucks weight transferred onto the well via the front wheel, and cave in?

or will it take the load as if the transferred weight of the truck were not an issue at all?

(they better be strong! i paid 30 bucks for a 12"x12" square grate lid yesterday, and I almost died...)

((but i wouldnt give yall that relaxation from my pestering questions, so....here I is
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2014, 10:53 PM
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1idejim 1idejim is online now
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With metered systems, the meter itself makes proving or disproving the existence of a leak so easy that even I can do it. The first thing I look for when approached with a drainage issue or constant wet area is a leak.

If you disprove a leak, overwatering is next and then the issue of drainage. It amazes me that a lot of irrigators are contacted to mitigate "drainage" rather than being contacted to inspect the irrigation. Many times adjusting the controller is the answer.
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  #20  
Old 03-07-2014, 09:49 AM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhettMan View Post
I have been wanting to try a dry well for a while now, but dont know much about them.
Whatever I do, must work, how convinced are you, considering what i have thought to mention regarding this saturation, of the "guaranteedness" of success of the water relocation to and from those points?

To help me get an idea of (NDS) strength.....supposed a 3/4ton truck (for whatever crazy reason) drives directly over the top of completed and backfilled well?

Is it to be expected that the top will simple give way under the load of the trucks weight transferred onto the well via the front wheel, and cave in?

or will it take the load as if the transferred weight of the truck were not an issue at all?

(they better be strong! i paid 30 bucks for a 12"x12" square grate lid yesterday, and I almost died...)

((but i wouldnt give yall that relaxation from my pestering questions, so....here I is
Personally I think It will work and work well. I'd be willing to bet money that there is a nicely packed clay layer just under the surface. Most of the time in newer sub-divisions, you can get through that layer and find black dirt.

Even if you didn't use a flow well, I'm almost guaranteeing that taking a 6" auger, drilling 1 hole every 2', or as far down as far as you can, lining the hole with fabric, and back-filling with a washed angular rock, then covering over with 6" of dirt, thus creating a flow well without the actual unit.

Or just insert a Drain tile with a sock, vertically, and fill it with rock.

We used to do this with a 3 point hitch auger on a tractor back home on the farm in wet holes out in the fields. (minus the rock of course).

Just went out and augured in a bunch of holes to break through the hard pan and it helped alleviate the problem. Lasted for a few years until you had to do it again, or eventually run a tile system through the field.




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