Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 05-15-2014, 11:43 PM
greenbaylawns's Avatar
greenbaylawns greenbaylawns is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 554
Quote:
Originally Posted by crawler tech View Post
If it's over 96 degrees, neither me nor my mower will be working!
I'd be out of business if I stopped at 96. Raise the deck and keep mowing.
__________________
www.Greenbaylawns.com
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-16-2014, 12:18 AM
weeze's Avatar
weeze weeze is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: weezertonfieldville, AL
Posts: 5,297
kawi says use 30 or 10w30. either one.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 05-16-2014, 08:36 AM
Tennesseepowerstroke Tennesseepowerstroke is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mt. Juliet TN
Posts: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by weeze View Post
kawi says use 30 or 10w30. either one.
My Kawasaki manual lists 30W, 40w, 10w30 and 10w40 all as acceptable depending on the outside air temps. I have always used Mobil 1 10w30 but just switched to Rotella 5w40.
__________________
Ford F350 & Ranger
Exmark Lazer AS 60" 28hp Kawasaki
John Deere GS30
John Deere 14PZ
Honda HRC 216
Shindaiwa T270, M231 Muliti-Tool & EB802 Stihl MS230 CBE
Echo 210s
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 05-16-2014, 11:28 PM
jmoney7269 jmoney7269 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: brenham texas
Posts: 31
10w-30 or SAE 30 is fine. I tend to lean towards the thinner multi grades for the thinner viscosity at startup. Most of all of your engine wear is at startup or within the first 8 hrs of a oil change and that's a proven fact. Conventional DINO or HYDROCRACKED oil in stages of 1-3 are more dependent on shear additives to maintain a film to prevent metal to metal contact. All in all it's worth it to spend a little more now or a lot more down the road. I run 100% PAO/Ester oils in all my gasoline engines. Those types of oil virtually eliminate dry starts and you can go literally twice as long between changes with occasional oil analysis monitoring. Because I get it at cost I run kawasaki 10w40 synthetic in everything I own. The kawasaki oil is blended my motul which IMO is the best oil in the world. Never bought into the amsoil "snake oil" hype. In my diesel Motorhome I run kawasaki CJ-4 rated semi synthetic. Just FYI never run a oil that is reccomended for gasoline engines only in a diesel. Seen my fair share of oil caked in diesel oil pans because it didn't have the overbase detergent additives to keep acid and soot suspended in the oil. I had 12k hrs on my last Onan 5500 generator and my new 7.5kw generator has 2.5k hrs on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I'm a big time believer in not changing your oil too often, especially before the manufacture recommendation.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 05-17-2014, 12:14 AM
Tennesseepowerstroke Tennesseepowerstroke is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mt. Juliet TN
Posts: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoney7269 View Post
10w-30 or SAE 30 is fine. I tend to lean towards the thinner multi grades for the thinner viscosity at startup. Most of all of your engine wear is at startup or within the first 8 hrs of a oil change and that's a proven fact. Conventional DINO or HYDROCRACKED oil in stages of 1-3 are more dependent on shear additives to maintain a film to prevent metal to metal contact. All in all it's worth it to spend a little more now or a lot more down the road. I run 100% PAO/Ester oils in all my gasoline engines. Those types of oil virtually eliminate dry starts and you can go literally twice as long between changes with occasional oil analysis monitoring. Because I get it at cost I run kawasaki 10w40 synthetic in everything I own. The kawasaki oil is blended my motul which IMO is the best oil in the world. Never bought into the amsoil "snake oil" hype. In my diesel Motorhome I run kawasaki CJ-4 rated semi synthetic. Just FYI never run a oil that is reccomended for gasoline engines only in a diesel. Seen my fair share of oil caked in diesel oil pans because it didn't have the overbase detergent additives to keep acid and soot suspended in the oil. I had 12k hrs on my last Onan 5500 generator and my new 7.5kw generator has 2.5k hrs on it and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I'm a big time believer in not changing your oil too often, especially before the manufacture recommendation.
Posted via Mobile Device
Other than the Kawasaki oil, can you give us some examples of 100% PAO/Estor Oils?
__________________
Ford F350 & Ranger
Exmark Lazer AS 60" 28hp Kawasaki
John Deere GS30
John Deere 14PZ
Honda HRC 216
Shindaiwa T270, M231 Muliti-Tool & EB802 Stihl MS230 CBE
Echo 210s
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 05-17-2014, 08:13 AM
jmoney7269 jmoney7269 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: brenham texas
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke View Post
Other than the Kawasaki oil, can you give us some examples of 100% PAO/Estor Oils?
Mobil 1 is around 70% Pao with some esters
German Castrol edge at auto zone
Motul
Amsoil but not for the price
Bel-ray
No oil will usually be more than 90% pao due to poor seal compatibility so other additives are used. I like oils that have esters in them because they bond with the metal to eliminate dry starts where as regular Dino oil uses film strength. The film strength is the weakest at startup since the engine has been sitting and the pump has no pressure. Another good practice to start is to let a engine idle for 2 minutes or so before shutting it down. Running an engine at WOT and shutting it down without proper procedure causes oil COKING in the rings and that causes premature wear And oil consumption also. This practice is mainly used in diesel turbocharged engines but the practice on smaller engines doesn't hurt. Any synthetic oil with a JASO MA or JASO Ma2 rating is good, because of the extra anti wear additives for crankcase with clutches True synthetic oil doesn't break down and consume as easily in multi grades as Dino oil. But I know some law care places that get 3-4k hrs out of their engines with regular old oil they get in bulk but it's rare. Usually some failure happens or some preventative maintenance from a operator doesn't allow long engine life though
Posted via Mobile Device

Last edited by jmoney7269; 05-17-2014 at 08:21 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 05-17-2014, 08:36 AM
southerntide's Avatar
southerntide southerntide is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,763
Quote:
Originally Posted by weeze View Post
kawi says use 30 or 10w30. either one.
Mine does as well


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke View Post
My Kawasaki manual lists 30W, 40w, 10w30 and 10w40 all as acceptable depending on the outside air temps. I have always used Mobil 1 10w30 but just switched to Rotella 5w40.
Guess it depends on year of motor, what model year is yours ?
__________________

2014 JD 920M 7-Iron Pro 48" 23.5 hp Kawi
Echo - 210, 225
5x10 (upgrading winter)



All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
Arthur Schopenhauer, (1788 – 1860)
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 05-17-2014, 10:04 AM
Tennesseepowerstroke Tennesseepowerstroke is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mt. Juliet TN
Posts: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by B&M Lawncare View Post
Mine does as well




Guess it depends on year of motor, what model year is yours ?
My Exmark is a 07 model.
__________________
Ford F350 & Ranger
Exmark Lazer AS 60" 28hp Kawasaki
John Deere GS30
John Deere 14PZ
Honda HRC 216
Shindaiwa T270, M231 Muliti-Tool & EB802 Stihl MS230 CBE
Echo 210s
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 05-17-2014, 10:05 AM
Tennesseepowerstroke Tennesseepowerstroke is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Mt. Juliet TN
Posts: 260
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmoney7269 View Post
Mobil 1 is around 70% Pao with some esters
German Castrol edge at auto zone
Motul
Amsoil but not for the price
Bel-ray
No oil will usually be more than 90% pao due to poor seal compatibility so other additives are used. I like oils that have esters in them because they bond with the metal to eliminate dry starts where as regular Dino oil uses film strength. The film strength is the weakest at startup since the engine has been sitting and the pump has no pressure. Another good practice to start is to let a engine idle for 2 minutes or so before shutting it down. Running an engine at WOT and shutting it down without proper procedure causes oil COKING in the rings and that causes premature wear And oil consumption also. This practice is mainly used in diesel turbocharged engines but the practice on smaller engines doesn't hurt. Any synthetic oil with a JASO MA or JASO Ma2 rating is good, because of the extra anti wear additives for crankcase with clutches True synthetic oil doesn't break down and consume as easily in multi grades as Dino oil. But I know some law care places that get 3-4k hrs out of their engines with regular old oil they get in bulk but it's rare. Usually some failure happens or some preventative maintenance from a operator doesn't allow long engine life though
Posted via Mobile Device
So Rotella T6 5w40 would not fall into this category of oils?
__________________
Ford F350 & Ranger
Exmark Lazer AS 60" 28hp Kawasaki
John Deere GS30
John Deere 14PZ
Honda HRC 216
Shindaiwa T270, M231 Muliti-Tool & EB802 Stihl MS230 CBE
Echo 210s
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 05-17-2014, 03:44 PM
jmoney7269 jmoney7269 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: brenham texas
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke View Post
So Rotella T6 5w40 would not fall into this category of oils?
No, even though rotella t6 is 100% synthetic according to American standards, it does contain wax and petroleum making it a group 3 Hydrocracked oil. Group 4 and 5 pao and ester oils are pure synthetic. They have higher and lower operating temperature than any other oils.thats why mobil 1 filed that big lawsuit over conventional oils and Hydrocracked oils calling themselves synthetic. Also another top of the line oil is Redline
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.com™ - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:34 PM.

Page generated in 0.09612 seconds with 9 queries