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  #31  
Old 05-18-2014, 12:15 AM
Tennesseepowerstroke Tennesseepowerstroke is offline
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I may be going back to Mobil 1 on my next oil change for the Exmark. The Rotella T6 seems to be working for the diesel truck and the Goldwing. I had soot problems with the diesel truck before going to Rotella. My turbo vanes "coked up" 2 times in 36,000 miles when using dino oil. Maybe the Rotella helped or maybe it was just luck. I have been 37,000 more miles without any problems.
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  #32  
Old 05-18-2014, 12:54 AM
jmoney7269 jmoney7269 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tennesseepowerstroke View Post
I may be going back to Mobil 1 on my next oil change for the Exmark. The Rotella T6 seems to be working for the diesel truck and the Goldwing. I had soot problems with the diesel truck before going to Rotella. My turbo vanes "coked up" 2 times in 36,000 miles when using dino oil. Maybe the Rotella helped or maybe it was just luck. I have been 37,000 more miles without any problems.
Diesel oils have higher amounts of detergents to clean the engines and suspend soot in the oil. Coking is what happens to oil in bearings or ring lands when an engine is shut down without adequate idling or even too low of a viscosity for the heat the engine produces. Heavy Diesel engines are a whole different ball game than comparing air cooled engines. The duties of the oil totally change. When you say your turbo coked up, do you mean it sooted up? If your oil was not CJ-4 rated that could of been part of the problem. Like from extra fuel? If a Diesel engine is not tuned properly (too much fuel) and not enough air to offset the extra fuel, that's when your engine runs higher EGTs. Manufactures build engines to perform at it's optimal performance according to what's installed from the factory. For instance my Rv is a 99 holiday rambler, it came from the factory with a 300 hp cummins. I installed a 100 hp set of Bosch injectors because the Rv seriously lacked hill climbing torque when pulling my 7k# BBQ trailer. I pull speed going up hills when most rvs are jumping down 2 gears. The engine was making power but my egts were approaching maximum safe limits pretty quickly and the engine was running super rich with the factory turbo. I installed an aruara 3000 turbo and took the boost up to around 30-35 psi and the egts went down 400 degrees and the exhaust
Smoke is non existent. My little 5.9 is probably making 425 hp and around 1000 ft/lb now. Sorry for the hijack

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  #33  
Old 05-18-2014, 10:08 PM
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ProStreetCamaro ProStreetCamaro is offline
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I use 10W-30 and 30WT all in one.









For those that cant figure out how amsoil does this it is because the REAL synthetic group IV and V base stock they use is a straight 30WT but it is so good it actually flows like a 10W and meets the requirements to be labeled a 10W-30 and also straight 30WT. They don't add any viscosity modifiers to the oil at all. That makes it a superior oil because viscosity modifiers make oil less sheer stable and less stable in general. This is very important in these hot running high load air cooled small engines. The oil does not sheer out of spec as easily and it does not break down from the heat as easily as fake synthetics. On top of that the amsoil i posted is high in detergents and high in ZDDP which is great for the flat tappet cams in these small engines.

All 10W-30 oils bought at parts stores are fake synthetic and most people don't even know it. Group III base stock is not real synthetic. It is crude oil that goes through a process (hydro cracking) to make the molecules more even (simulate real synthetic).


Now take that information and do with it as you like. I know some people are set in there ways and refuse to make any changes. That amsoil can easily go 200+ hours before it should be changed in these small engines assuming you run a quality filter and your air filter seals up tight and does a good job like the big donaldson air filters do.
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  #34  
Old 05-18-2014, 10:12 PM
mattymax mattymax is offline
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That's what I use. Just did an oil change today with it

matt
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  #35  
Old 05-19-2014, 12:05 PM
rlitman rlitman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProStreetCamaro View Post
For those that cant figure out how amsoil does this it is because the REAL synthetic group IV and V base stock they use is a straight 30WT but it is so good it actually flows like a 10W and meets the requirements to be labeled a 10W-30 and also straight 30WT. They don't add any viscosity modifiers to the oil at all. That makes it a superior oil because viscosity modifiers make oil less sheer stable and less stable in general. This is very important in these hot running high load air cooled small engines. The oil does not sheer out of spec as easily and it does not break down from the heat as easily as fake synthetics. On top of that the amsoil i posted is high in detergents and high in ZDDP which is great for the flat tappet cams in these small engines.
But how does it taste?
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  #36  
Old 05-19-2014, 02:30 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Where's Tim Vipond when you need him.
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  #37  
Old 05-19-2014, 03:22 PM
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weeze weeze is offline
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now if only they would sell amsoil in stores.
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2014, 04:19 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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I ain't read ANY of the replies. C'mon man, four pages??
But to answer the O.P., it's usually best to follow the ENGINE mfg. owners manual. They all have a chart that tells you what to use. When in doubt, use 10w-30. In the warmer months I always use/recommend straight 30 wt HD.
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  #39  
Old 05-19-2014, 08:22 PM
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Billscaping Billscaping is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
I ain't read ANY of the replies. C'mon man, four pages??
But to answer the O.P., it's usually best to follow the ENGINE mfg. owners manual. They all have a chart that tells you what to use. When in doubt, use 10w-30. In the warmer months I always use/recommend straight 30 wt HD.
Everyone answered the OP and said the same thing you did
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