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  #11  
Old 05-20-2014, 08:01 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: On a green lawn
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My personal preference is to use a Slice Seeder (also called a slit seeder). It'll cut grooves into the soil and deposit seed into those grooves. The seed will then have soil contact on all sides except for the top. I also recommend running the Slice Seeder across the lawns in both directions to create a checkerboard pattern.

You could aerate if you wanted to but you'd really have to beat up the bare areas real good before seeding.

As for top dressing, I would only do that if there were a lot of uneven areas in the soil so that they could be leveled out.

Like programs, there's a 100 different ways this can be done. It's all based on personal preference, time constraints, etc.... I mean, you could bring in a bulldozer and re-level everything, rake it out, and then seed! However, do you really need to do that? LOL!
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  #12  
Old 05-20-2014, 10:43 PM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
A/c is the salesman's term for "All Chemical"--no slow release--cheap.

I don't think this is bad. Just one of many different ways to do it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Golf greens, baseball and football fields need the nitrogen--home lawns about half that much per year.

Most creeping bentgrass greens in your area are getting 2 to 2.75 lbs N/M/yr. I think most of your lawns are getting more than that.
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  #13  
Old 05-21-2014, 02:30 PM
macani macani is offline
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Hissing Cobra,

For my Step 2 was recommended 13-0-0 Dimension and 0-0-7 Lockup

They didn't have 0-0-7 Lockup so they gave me 2 following bags to achieve my Step 2
Lockup Extra 2 18-0-4M and Dimension 0.10% 0-0-7M

Is this sufficient enough for Dimension and Lockup? Thanks !
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  #14  
Old 05-21-2014, 04:23 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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It sure is. Read the label before application to understand what this product does. It is a fertilizer to green up the lawn and keep it growing, a Crabgrass pre-emergent (prevents certain grasses and weeds from growing) control (Dimension), and a Post-emergent (controls Broadleaf Weeds after they've emerged) weed control (Lockup). This product is best applied to a wet lawn and then undisturbed for 24 hours. It can then be watered in to activate the Dimension crabgrass control.

The good thing about Lockup is that it works by contacting the weeds (if allowed to remain on the leaves for up to 24 hours) and also by being taken in by the roots (Systemically) of the weeds. It works very well if the directions are followed and will control those "hard to control" weeds such as Clover and Wild Violets. On those weeds, a second or even possibly a third application may be needed. If more than one application is needed, space them about 25 days apart and the 2nd and 3rd applications should be done with the 0-0-7 Lockup, so that you're not reapplying Nitrogen with every application. Also, with the 0-0-7 Lockup, you don't have to do the entire lawn. You can use it on those areas that need it and save the rest inside the bag for a later date. BE CAREFUL OF YOUR FLOWERS, BUSHES, TREES, OR SHRUBS as the Lockup will damage those plantings if it comes in contact with them. I recommend buying a cheap bed sheet that you can drape over those plantings so that you can let the Lockup bounce off of them and back into the lawn (or use an edging shield that's attached to your spreader). When done, carefully remove the sheet, fold it up, and put it in the shed for the next time you need it. Don't use it on a bed!

Remember, you cannot prevent Broadleaf weeds. You can only treat them after they've emerged. Once they've been cleaned up, it's nothing to walk the lawn every now and then and pick them out before they get out of control and to the point where herbicides are needed. In my 3,000 sq. ft. lawn, I haven't applied a herbicide in 4 years. Once per week I spend 5 or 10 minutes and pick them out, leaves and all.

Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 05-21-2014 at 04:28 PM.
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  #15  
Old 06-04-2014, 10:16 AM
macani macani is offline
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Hissing Cobra,

Here are some picture of my grass. It was seeded Sept 2012, showing some yellow/orange sports in my back yard, what could possibly be from (none in front yard)? Also is this good progress for grass of almost 2 years from seed ?



Also, my neighbor wants to do his grass in September, here are some pics of his yard, what would be best way to do it,? Where to start with his grass?

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  #16  
Old 06-05-2014, 07:02 PM
Hissing Cobra Hissing Cobra is offline
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Your pictures look pretty good especially for newer turf. With that being said, the browing in those pictures indicates to me that it's suffering from lack of water. It's tough to tell from a photograph but that's what it looks like to me. As for your friend, he needs to determine what type of grass he has in the lawn so that he can choose a mix that will match. If he cannot determine the grass type, he may want to spray Round Up on the entire grass area to kill it off. I know it sounds radical but if you cannot match what is there, why keep it?

With that being said, he can follow this routine later this year.

August 15th - Spray Round Up on existing weeds and grass (only if he cannot determine what type of grass he has).

September 1st - Scalp lawn with mower on LOWEST setting and remove clippings. Rent slit seeder and slit seed entire lawn in both directions with seed of his choice (have him do research on the different types for your area). After seeding, apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or Equivalent.

October 1st - Apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or equivalent.

November 1st - Apply Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer or equivalent.

December 1st - Apply Lesco 21-0-21 "Winterizer" or equivalent.

If your winter comes a lot earlier than ours (we still see temps in the 40's/50's in early December) then he should move the December 1st application of 21-0-21 "Winterizer" up to November 1st instead of applying the 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer on that date. The new seed should begin to come in nicely while the old lawn will slowly decline due to the Round Up spray application as well as the slit seeder tearing through it.

This should get him up and running to have a nice lawn in 2015.

Last edited by Hissing Cobra; 06-05-2014 at 07:07 PM.
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  #17  
Old 06-05-2014, 10:01 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Maconi, Good advice from Cobra.
the orange spots in the fall could be caused by rust fungus. Common problem in fall of new seedings --not serious--usually clears up in a few weeks.

New lawn--you can probably assume the old grass is perennial rye. Nothing unusual. Expect crabgrass to fill in most of the thin spots. The best date to reseed is about August 15, because the soil temperature is at its highest. Under ideal moisture conditions it could be a quarter-inch tall by 96 hours. He is planning to water the grass, right?
Let it get tall--then--mow short to shock it. Rake off residue. If you cannot find a slit seeder or a pro to do it--power rake it a couple of times to expose near 100 percent loose soil. Add starter fert. Sow high quality seed; apply way over the recommended amount if you want to be sure of a thick result. Rake in. Water 30 minutes every day for 30 days.
Typical water cost around here is about a dollar an hour.
Most weeds will be killed by frost in October. Treat for crabgrass in spring--about April.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 06-05-2014 at 10:03 PM. Reason: ps
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  #18  
Old 06-05-2014, 11:51 PM
macani macani is offline
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Here are some close up pics of my grass. Is this some kind of a lawn disease or lack of watering ?

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  #19  
Old 06-06-2014, 08:44 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Knowing that the rains around here have been near zero for two weeks--and judging by the brownness in lawns in my neighborhood, I suspect that dry soil is the cause of the brown color. One way to help determine drought injury, is to examine carefully the sunny areas and compare to shady areas. The shady areas will retain their green color longer, because they are protected from the hot sun.
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2014, 08:59 AM
macani macani is offline
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I really don't have any shade areas. Sun covers my property from sunrise to sunset. I also have sprinklers that have been turning on. I even seen a few mushrooms on my lawn.

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