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  #21  
Old 06-06-2014, 11:40 PM
ArTurf ArTurf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhettMan View Post
while we are on the topic of DC.

I suppose the question of: "how long will a battery last on a node/toro variant?", would probably be a "too many variables kinda question" ?
I installed a Hunter XC at a golf course which just worked one station. The 9V battery lasted the enire summer May-Oct

What I have against the Node is the fact one would have the reach down in a valve box with who knows what in it and the programming is a nightmare for home owners.
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  #22  
Old 06-07-2014, 02:34 AM
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cjohn2000 cjohn2000 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RhettMan View Post
well Mr. Who is an idiot, bc having two clocks on one system is NOT fun.

However, I am glad that he would like to be able to tell an asking customer how long a DC controller's battery will last.
Try having a HOA that is all battery op valves and had no wires run between valve boxes, PITA. On a related note there seems to be a bad run of Hunter DC latching solenoids I had one that would require constant power to actuate a valve and run that would require a longer amount of time to actuate a valve. My tech also had a similar issue.
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  #23  
Old 06-07-2014, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irritation View Post
Only an idiot would install a controller in a basement.
For a tiny-front-yard system costing less than $500 installed (can you tell this was a while ago?) you got an indoor controller and liked it. Besides, times two, there weren't any outdoor electrical outlets, and if there even were any, the in-use cover had not been invented yet.
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  #24  
Old 06-07-2014, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
For a tiny-front-yard system costing less than $500 installed (can you tell this was a while ago?) you got an indoor controller and liked it. Besides, times two, there weren't any outdoor electrical outlets, and if there even were any, the in-use cover had not been invented yet.
http://www.google.com/patents/US8017865
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Cited Patent Filing date Publication date Applicant Title; US2916733 * Jul 26, 1957: Dec 8, 1959: Wilbert Hirsch: Cover for electric Ö
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  #25  
Old 06-07-2014, 11:35 AM
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grassman177 grassman177 is offline
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We used the node from Hunter, so far do good. Just had to program the controller to turn on the master valve in order to use them where I did. One zone left on the clock, no wires left, added three zones
Quote:
Originally Posted by mitjin View Post
Hey guys,
Was wondering what you all use as a solenoid and clock for one zone systems. I have no power so I figure something with a battery will work. I saw orbit and gardena has something but trying to stay away from that.

would like to be able to find something for outdoor real cheap...
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  #26  
Old 06-07-2014, 11:37 AM
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Patent schmatent. Those in-use covers were unknown in the field back in the days of Disco music.

There may be another cost-effective way to work valve control, if battery technology improves, along with solar power tech. Since conventional valve solenoids have some ability to work on continuous DC, a battery-powered solar-recharged control system might become the norm.

Last edited by Wet_Boots; 06-07-2014 at 11:42 AM.
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2014, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Since conventional valve solenoids have some ability to work on continuous DC, a battery-powered solar-recharged control system might become the norm.
DC actuators use a capacitor to provide inrush current high enough to pull the plunger of an AC solenoid up and maintain about 2.5 volts DC to provide holding current if I'm not mistaken. The problem is that they're battery eaters. I'm interested in your solar theory of why one would use an AC solenoid rather than a DC solenoid and what the advantage would be?

Bench testing an Armada pro48 actuator shows me max of 15.3 volts AC and a max 31.7 DC and .030 mA load.
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2014, 01:17 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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A latching solenoid (i.e. DC solenoid) doesn't need a holding current. I'm sure someone will correct me if there are DC latching solenoids where this is not the case.

Boss, I think a better question might be why not just use latching solenoids on all valves? What is the advantage for having an AC solenoid in irrigation valves?
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  #29  
Old 06-07-2014, 01:17 PM
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Weathermatic spec'd their brass valves with the S24B solenoid as capable of 12VDC operation, at 75 psi or less of supply pressure, so the concept of continuous DC operation from a strong battery kept charged by way of solar power, has been around for awhile, and is more do-able than ever.

There could even be circuitry to convert without great energy loss, the DC power to AC power, and to even tone it down from 24 VAC to something closer to the 18 VAC that is the actual spec'd opening voltage for most common zone valves.
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2014, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post

There could even be circuitry to convert without great energy loss, the DC power to AC power, and to even tone it down from 24 VAC to something closer to the 18 VAC that is the actual spec'd opening voltage for most common zone valves.
18 vac doesn't allow for voltage drop so I doubt you'll see supply reductions.
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