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  #11  
Old 06-19-2014, 12:14 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is offline
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Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You are on the right track, Twomancrew. Larry is right. The vines on trees are fun to kill. Cut the fat woody vines with a long handled pole saw or tree saw. The roots supply water to the leaves. On a warm day when you sever the connection to the roots, every leaf above that point dies in a few hours. Don't bother to remove the dead vines--too risky to the workers. You will probably not see or miss a few vines; go back for a followup with the saw or big loppers. After that the roots will sprout--spot spray those as they come up. Repeat every two weeks.
Any poison ivy in the grass--just mowing followed by a three way will be effective.

Naturally any PI vines in the landscaping or near valuable trees must be treated with care. Roundup will kill anything green--but that includes landscaping and grass.
Would pulling the root out of the ground and soaking that work better than cutting and soaking?
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  #12  
Old 06-19-2014, 05:24 PM
larryinalabama larryinalabama is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
High volatility ester formulas will distill off of sprayed vegetation and nail everything nearby. It is much worse when that 90 degree day is combined with high humidity and no wind. Even low volatile ester will do it under the right conditions. I remember mixing RoundUp and low vol ester to kill out trash underneath some desirable trees before a re landscape job. One of those days I should have been at the beach, in the pool, or under the sprinklers. 90 and humid, no wind. Enough ester vaporized to make the trees curl their shoots. They recovered. More sensitive species would be dead.
That's why I asked, thanks for the info.
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  #13  
Old 06-19-2014, 05:41 PM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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Originally Posted by whiffyspark View Post
Would pulling the root out of the ground and soaking that work better than cutting and soaking?
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If licensed Tordon RTU is a great treatment for anything woody that we cut. It's a pretty blue liquid that gets squirt from the bottle directly to fresh cut stumps. On large stumps a ring around the layer under the bark will be all that's needed. One shot, kills everytime. It's 2,4-d and Picloram. Picloram is a terrible product to use unless great care is taken and directions must be closely followed or it will come back to bite you in the p-two-d. Picloram is a federally restricted use pesticide. Picloram will not harm most turf grasses if used according to the label.

What they are telling me to do is to cut and wait for new shoots to grow and treat the new growth. Young tender shoots love to drink up herbicidesand are close enough to the root to actually do some damage. We are going to rinse and repeat this process and literally wear the plant out until the root is dead. I would be happy with a top kill or burn out, but if I can I would go for a root kill for the long haul. Either one is going to get me paid on this job.

I hope that is all right and correct.
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  #14  
Old 06-20-2014, 03:15 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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You really do not want to apply Tordon in any form near desirable trees and shrubs. Even as a cut stump or trunk injection application, enough Tordon exudes from the killed plant roots to then affect whatever those roots coexist with. If I had to worry about surrounding plants, RoundUp or Crossbow applied as a cut stump or trunk treatment. Arsenal is just as bad about migrating as well.
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  #15  
Old 06-20-2014, 09:42 AM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
You really do not want to apply Tordon in any form near desirable trees and shrubs. Even as a cut stump or trunk injection application, enough Tordon exudes from the killed plant roots to then affect whatever those roots coexist with. If I had to worry about surrounding plants, RoundUp or Crossbow applied as a cut stump or trunk treatment. Arsenal is just as bad about migrating as well.
I never used RU on a cut stump, does that really work? It always seemed to me that RU wants to be sprayed on a leaf. Also I never had much luck killing P. Ivy with it. It burns it a little, but it always comes back later- this is only my experience and I couldn't tell you at this time what rate I applied the RU at. Probably 6 or 8 oz/gal. I get sold a lot of Tomahawk, Buckaneer, and Glystar but it is all 4 lb. of Glyphosate/ gal. Who knows which one I was using.

I'm going to this place today around 3:30 to have a walk with the DNR- what rate Glyph when applied to stumps? I'll do a few up today and see how it works. Please and Thanks.

I can't tell you folks how much I appreciate the help with this. I appreciate this. Thanks.
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  #16  
Old 06-20-2014, 10:20 AM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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I misspoke on Tordon RTU- the RTU formula is not a RUP.
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  #17  
Old 06-20-2014, 12:07 PM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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Met with rep on site this AM and we come up with Tordon RTU on the cut vines and spot and broadcast treat everything else with 1/4 lb. of Dicamba and 2 lbs. 2,4-d per acre. He told me not to let it run off when I spray. He has a nice nurse tank they are going to loan me to mix the Dicamba in because I never put that in mine and it is hard to rinse out after. I put all sorts of it through my sprayer so it won't matter. Normally I add it in the tank when I see clover or other tough stuff in lawns. Oracle is the label name I have. I've had great luck with it at 1 lb. per acre but never around trees like that. That's way off the label I'm doing some small areas at other accounts next week. I'll try to get pics, but my phone likes to fall out of my pocket when I ride anything and if I don't have it on me I won't stop working to go get it.

The comment about 3-way stuck out to me yesterday and the rep today said since I already have Dicamba and 4lb. lovolester to go with that for the money it'll be enough he said. Years ago I bought a lot of Trimec and it seemed a bit spendy back then for what was in it. A high price for convenience I always thought. It used to have crabgrass control of some sort in it too I think. Trimec Classic or something IDK.
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  #18  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:25 PM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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Originally Posted by whiffyspark View Post
Would pulling the root out of the ground and soaking that work better than cutting and soaking?
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I would apply either roundup concentrate or stump killer concentrate to the fresh cuts on the vines.

As for lawns, I would use surge in the hotter parts of the summer, then speed zone in the cooler parts of the year.

I'm a scorched earth type of guy when It comes to poison ivy. Roundup spiked with surge. If grass dies, then it's just collateral damage. Once controlled, it's can be easy to take care of.


....
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  #19  
Old 06-20-2014, 01:34 PM
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americanlawn americanlawn is offline
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Riggle is spot on (as usual). twoman -- do not try to pull poison ivy out by the roots, cuz you won't get 'em all, and the poison ivy will eventually regrow. Wait until more leaves appear & spray 'em again. This will allow the product to translocate throughout the root system.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
You are on the right track, Twomancrew. Larry is right. The vines on trees are fun to kill. Cut the fat woody vines with a long handled pole saw or tree saw. The roots supply water to the leaves. On a warm day when you sever the connection to the roots, every leaf above that point dies in a few hours. Don't bother to remove the dead vines--too risky to the workers. You will probably not see or miss a few vines; go back for a followup with the saw or big loppers. After that the roots will sprout--spot spray those as they come up. Repeat every two weeks.
Any poison ivy in the grass--just mowing followed by a three way will be effective.

Naturally any PI vines in the landscaping or near valuable trees must be treated with care. Roundup will kill anything green--but that includes landscaping and grass.
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  #20  
Old 06-20-2014, 03:53 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Originally Posted by twomancrew View Post
I never used RU on a cut stump, does that really work? It always seemed to me that RU wants to be sprayed on a leaf. Also I never had much luck killing P. Ivy with it. It burns it a little, but it always comes back later- this is only my experience and I couldn't tell you at this time what rate I applied the RU at. Probably 6 or 8 oz/gal. I get sold a lot of Tomahawk, Buckaneer, and Glystar but it is all 4 lb. of Glyphosate/ gal. Who knows which one I was using.

I'm going to this place today around 3:30 to have a walk with the DNR- what rate Glyph when applied to stumps? I'll do a few up today and see how it works. Please and Thanks.

I can't tell you folks how much I appreciate the help with this. I appreciate this. Thanks.
RoundUp concentrate applied to a number of tree and vine cut surfaces will kill them. If applied immediately after cutting.
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