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  #31  
Old 06-15-2014, 07:29 AM
mizzman mizzman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mid MO
Posts: 12
I've priced their cup holders online and at the dealer. They must be made out of gold! I think I'll rig something up on my own for now.
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  #32  
Old 06-15-2014, 08:06 AM
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southerntide southerntide is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Alabama
Posts: 1,768
Quote:
Originally Posted by alancamby View Post
I am going to pick up my FX850 61" Cheetah tomorrow. the month payments will be $227.67 for 48 months.
So my total with tax is $10,928.16
I am spending $300 extra to do the 48 at 0%.
All I have to do is sign tomorrow. I thought I would have to put $1K down or something.

Seems like a decent deal and with me putting 40 to 50 hrs a year on the mower, I hope to get 20 years if not more out of the thing.
I just hope I will be happy with that FX850.
Get the valves adjust as recommended don't go to steep on hills burn one cylinder up running dry just seen close to 20 units come in for rebuilds because of people doing this.

Keep the oil changed and all filters and hydro change as specified do not listen toy our dealer if he tells you hydro never needs to be changed its a scam for them to make money off the labor and parts this seems to be increasing with some shady dealers.

I got the FX750V on my new JD love it Kawi's are pure power unlike EFI's.

Due to hour range we put in on them I will be trading in from now on @ 500 hours leaving it with 700 of warranty and pick up new units in cycles instead of buying for life.

I was sick of working on my gravely (high hours) so much, bolt breaks here there stuff wears out then it consumes to much time repairing when you should be relaxing, now motor is shot.
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2014 JD 920M 7-Iron Pro 48" 23.5 hp Kawi
Echo - 210, 225
5x10 (upgrading winter)



All truth passes through three stages. First, it is ridiculed. Second, it is violently opposed. Third, it is accepted as being self-evident.
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  #33  
Old 06-15-2014, 02:06 PM
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puppypaws puppypaws is offline
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Location: Marshville,NC 28103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southerntide View Post

I got the FX750V on my new JD love it Kawi's are pure power unlike EFI's.
What in the world does this statement mean???
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  #34  
Old 06-15-2014, 11:04 PM
handcuff handcuff is offline
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 20
Haven't posted the results yet - my boys have been at scout camp and got a 2 day break before heading out to Philmont. I've spent the weekend preparing them rather than mowing. I DID drain my oil, though, for the first 'break in' oil change (almost 13 hours on the clock). I assumed that I'm supposed to change the filter also, but it doesn't say to do so for the 8 hour maintenance change in the manual. I'm getting a filter tomorrow and changing regardless of what the manual says. It's drained now, so I just have to change the filter then fill it back up.
I've read that sae 30 is better for this engine than 10w-30, correct?
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  #35  
Old 06-15-2014, 11:32 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Straight 30W does work better IME with my FX850. Always change the filter with the oil, especially at beak in. A filter is actually cheap insurance IMO.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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  #36  
Old 06-16-2014, 12:09 PM
handcuff handcuff is offline
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Louisville, KY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin' Green View Post
Always change the filter with the oil, especially at beak in. A filter is actually cheap insurance IMO.
That was my thought also. The filter is ~$10, and the break-in process is supposed to weed out any minor issues and allow the seals to seat. That being the case, the chance of particulates in the oil are larger now than other times...changing the filter seems like the prudent choice.
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  #37  
Old 06-16-2014, 12:13 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Most manuals are very specific about changing both at the break in change, and do so for the reasons you just stated.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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  #38  
Old 06-16-2014, 01:18 PM
ztman ztman is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: mountain pa
Posts: 787
Quote:
Originally Posted by handcuff View Post
Haven't posted the results yet - my boys have been at scout camp and got a 2 day break before heading out to Philmont. I've spent the weekend preparing them rather than mowing. I DID drain my oil, though, for the first 'break in' oil change (almost 13 hours on the clock). I assumed that I'm supposed to change the filter also, but it doesn't say to do so for the 8 hour maintenance change in the manual. I'm getting a filter tomorrow and changing regardless of what the manual says. It's drained now, so I just have to change the filter then fill it back up.
I've read that sae 30 is better for this engine than 10w-30, correct?
Do yourself a favor and order a case of OEM filters on line. It is about half the price of buying one at a time
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  #39  
Old 06-20-2014, 04:51 PM
mizzman mizzman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mid MO
Posts: 12
I thought I'd post my question to this thread since it has great review, and give it a bump, rather than starting a new thread. My biggest gripe so far with the Cheetah is the deck bumping up to the transport position and staying there until you grab the release lever. This usually only happens when I am mowing at 4.25" or above on rough grounds. It seems like I am looking more at the height adjuster to see if it has popped into the transport mode than I am my line! Does anybody know how prevent this? I know "slow down" but it is very hard to tell where the bumps are in an area I used to cut with a bush hog.

Other than that, I am really liking this mower. I just put in Royal Purple 30 wt synthetic at the 25 hour mark. It is difficult to find a straight wt. synthetic, and I got a good price on the RP.
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  #40  
Old 06-20-2014, 07:40 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Try loosening the tension on the deck lift assist spring (if you can on that machine).
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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