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  #21  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:38 PM
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AI Inc AI Inc is offline
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Originally Posted by Michael J. Donovan View Post
it appeared to me that the OP is a homeowner so I moved to this forum
Interesting and maybe educational topic Mike . Thinking other irrigation contractors may want to see it.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:41 PM
level4designs level4designs is offline
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sorry, didn't realize I wasn't suppose to post in these forums??? or in a home owner one. I just googled, found this forum, found a similar post, thought I would post...

for the pump lowering, that does make sense doesn't it, the water recharging the well is found in that extra 60 feet... Even if the water was there before, not having the pump down below it's level means it was never tapped.

The question I had to them was why was it so high off the bottom of the well.
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Old 07-07-2014, 03:43 PM
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Thing is a typical well store water at 1-1/2 gallons per ft. That 22 should have been available 80 ft higher. Im thinking they did a quicky flow test after installing 5 hp and not a real draw down flow test.
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  #24  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:44 PM
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Michael J. Donovan Michael J. Donovan is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AI Inc View Post
Interesting and maybe educational topic Mike . Thinking other irrigation contractors may want to see it.
yes, I agree (and not to go too of topic) but we "try" to keep things in their appropriate forums and also figure most of you irrigation guys thought the same...anyway, I can move it back to the irrigation forum

thanks all, now back on topic
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  #25  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:47 PM
level4designs level4designs is offline
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Sure, that makes sense... well I do appreciate the help. I did adjust those nozzles and slowed the turn on time from 30 seconds to 1 minute, then 30 seconds to recharge... It's better than what it was.

I am thinking it's just the way it is for a high horse motor... I think looking at a 2 horse when this one does go in 15 years maybe a better aligned pump for my needs.

or I have a creek nearby, maybe hook into that for irrigation at some point...

I do appreciate the feedback, kind of reaffirms what I have been doing and thinking.
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  #26  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:50 PM
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I would stay away from the creek. Maitanance costs can get pretty high using open water.
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  #27  
Old 07-07-2014, 04:05 PM
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Do or have a proper draw down test performed and then the system can be verified.
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  #28  
Old 07-07-2014, 04:48 PM
bcg bcg is offline
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You're not using the full capacity of that pump, you should know how many GPM you're getting and at what pressure and plan the zones accordingly (or renozzle them).

As a quick fix, install a cycle stop valve - http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/prod_csv125.html - and it will stop the pump from short cycling. It will vent water from the pressure relief so if the well is in a pump house, you're going to need to plumb that to drain outside.
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  #29  
Old 07-07-2014, 05:07 PM
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A plastic cycle stop is a good idea, never used one, I know they are cheap. I had no idea it needed to vent. What I always used were: http://cla-val.com
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  #30  
Old 07-07-2014, 05:48 PM
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If you have the access and clearance, you can run an air tube down the well and blow air into it, and by reading a pressure gauge on the air tube, calculate the water level in the well. Even without calculations, the air pressure reading will tell you if the water level is rising or falling, and make it easier to find a steady-state operating point.
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