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  #11  
Old 10-12-2000, 10:20 PM
John Allin John Allin is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Erie, PA
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Hey Chris...

Chuck has some really nifty toxic paint you should try.....
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2000, 11:36 PM
diggerman diggerman is offline
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Location: Iowa
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You know there are more uses for that toxic paint then I even could have imagined,its almost better than duct tape.
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  #13  
Old 10-12-2000, 11:50 PM
BRL BRL is offline
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Location: Somerset, NJ
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Oh no! Is the so called "wit" leaking into the other forums now.
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2000, 04:42 PM
Captkaos Captkaos is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 88
JCurtis:
The frame was sandblasted and then painted with POR15, then after about 30 or so minutes of drying time I top coated it with Gloss Black enamel. Reason: POR15 is UV sensative.

Chuck:
Well for a while there I couldn't find the forum. The link on you page didn't work the couple of times I checked it, so I gave up. The links I had were dircectly to the Chevy section and they became bogus. Plus the fact that I have changed jobs 3 times, bought a house and 3 other trucks since then, I have been busy. I am finally in a job I can play on the 'net at night and work on the trucks during the day, so I will be sticking my head here often. Thanks for the thumbs up on the website. I appreciate it. I am working on a page that has pics of the year model differences. Not sure when I will get it up completely, but it will be sooner now than before.

What is the story on the "toxic" paint?
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  #15  
Old 10-14-2000, 02:40 AM
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Chuck Smith Chuck Smith is offline
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Nutley, NJ
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Is no place sacred!

Chris,

What my hecklers, errr ummm, fan club is talking about, is Master Coat silver. Maybe you've heard it mentioned on other forums. It's MCU, Moisture Cured Urethane. It's sold at swap meets all over. They (my fans) call it "toxic paint" because it has isocyanates in it. Paint stripper won't remove it, brake fluid won't soften it, battery acid can't even dull it, air craft stripper will soften it after soaking for 12 hours+, it's high temp proof up to 600 degrees, comes in a clear version that can be tinted with any color pigmnents you want, fuel proof..... It can seal pinholes in gas tanks, you can pour it into leaky windshield frames, you can paint cardboard with it to waterproof it permanently.... You have to put a piece of plastic between the lid and the can when sealing it up, or the lid will be "welded" on permanently. It passes a 16 day salt spray test easily. It really is good paint. You have to wear rubber gloves, and a respirator when applying it. You can brush it or spray it. The first coat of silver should be brushed on, the be sure of good coverage. Then spray away!

The silver is a primer that can be applied over rust. All you have to do is wire brush loose scale. Sandblasting is best though. It is a high build finish, so it will fill pits and dimples in a chassis nicely. It contains aluminum, and you can actually "scrape" it from the bottom of the can, and spread it as a filler.

It also comes in chasis black. The clear is a good top coat, but like I said it can also be tinted. It's the paint we used on the 4wd 77 Monte Carlo on my pages. Here's the chassis all done in black, with 2 clear coats on it.

<img src="http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com/images/monte8a.jpg">


The red is cheap Krylon, but it has 3 clear coats on it.

I'll tell ya, try to share a great product, and NEVER hear the end of it.

~Chuck Smith a.k.a "Toxic Paint Guy"
http://www.chuckschevytruckpages.com
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