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Old 01-06-2001, 07:50 PM
DwarF DwarF is offline
LawnSite Member
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 30
I was excited to find such a great forum with actual helpful advice! =) I was searching the old transfer case discussions, and didn't see anything about the NP208, so I thought I would start a new thread.

I have an '83 K5. I was experiencing some mild knocking with the stock suspension on it, but like the impatient person I am, I lifted it 4", and put some 35" BFGs on it. Needless to say the knocking got worse, but it is not the U-joints, I am sure of that. Likewise, it doesn't appear to be the slide yoke on the NP208, it is tight as well. But, the yoke has slid out quite a bit due to the lift, and I think that it is slid out past it's comfort zone, and that is causing the knocking. *it only knocks in 1st when you get on the gas from a standstill* In any case, I think I could solve this with a slightly longer driveshaft. Also it has the stock driveshaft that has the cruddy injection molded plastic pins to hold the endcaps on the U-joints, so I would like to just dump the whole driveshaft. That said, I would like to switch to a splicer style for the extra travel now that it is lifted. This will not jive with the NP208's slide yoke (I don't think), so now, after lots of is my question.

Can I just change out the yoke and/or tailhosing on the NP208 and get it to not slide? Do I have to replace the whole transfer case and go to a different model? If so, Should I go back to a NP205 or is there better aluminum options now? I want the "slide" to be in the driveshaft, not in the yoke/transfer case, to give me a straighter line to the rear diff. I also want to be able to lose the rearend and still get home with the front power, but I definitely don't need full time 4wd.

Gracias in advance
Don't take life to seriously, nobody gets out alive.
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