four stroke engines on slopes

[ae lawn and snow]

I was wondering what is the steepest side slope you would operate 4 stroke equipment on. My power equipment dealer said "only as steep as what you would drive your car on." I know a person who used to burn up four strokes each year on his slopes until he switched to a lawn boy two stroke. On the other hand, I knew another guy who has been using a Briggs and Stratton with splash lubrication on STEEP banks for years now. I thought since my Honda motor has pressure lube it would do ok but I want to be sure before I throw a rod from oil starvation. thanks in advance for the help.

[LCPullman]

We run our twin-cylinder Kawasaki engines on very steep slopes and haven't had any trouble, of course, its rarely constant steep slope operation for hours, its on and off, or go one way, turn around go the other way (alternates which side of the engine is up)

[lawnspecialties]

Originally Posted by LCPullman

We run our twin-cylinder Kawasaki engines on very steep slopes and haven't had any trouble, of course, its rarely constant steep slope operation for hours, its on and off, or go one way, turn around go the other way (alternates which side of the engine is up)

Exactly what Pullman said.

I mow a few slopes where the mower is on the edge of tipping or sliding sideways down the hill. But it's typically less than 30 seconds at a time.

Never had a problem with my Kawasakis.

[ae lawn and snow]

thanks for the replies. When i think about it, most of the time mowing the hills only takes a couple minutes and i alternate directions so the oil must be adequitely distributed in the crankcase. Any really steep banks i find it just as easy to mow it with the trimmer and plastic-cut head.

[topsites]

I run synthetic oil, starvation problem solved.

[ae lawn and snow]

synthetic oil clings to the moving parts better?

[360ci]

I run synthetic oil as well in my mowers. I've had my 6.25hp Eager1 Tecumseh (Craftsman) the longest. It gets a solid 4-8hours a week, for the last nine years! I change the oil once each fall with synthetics and it's mostly used on back yards with good hill inclines, as I dare not take a riding mower on these types of hills. I operated it for half an hour once a month on an embankment that's a solid 30 degrees at the minimum, with no problems. I can't seem to kill the machine and am debating painting it as the frame is finally starting to rust.

[360ci]

Originally Posted by ae lawn and snow

synthetic oil clings to the moving parts better?

Yes they do. Most professional race teams run synthetics, not only to free up HP that would otherwise be lost in friction over standard oil, but if the sump ran dry for whatever reason, some of the parts may still be salvageable.

[topsites]

I think the best, most logical explanation I have heard is that the density
of synthetic oil changes little with temperature.

With dino, the oil thickens in the cold and thins in the heat, whereas the consistency of synthetic stays about the same.
Lets remember that no matter the outdoor temperature, once an engine runs for a bit it gets HOT.

And I believe it is this that keeps the engine lubricated during periods of oil starvation, the fact
synthetic oil has not thinned out in the heat allows it to protect moving parts longer.

Which is not to say that you can NOT seize an engine on synth...
But I do believe it takes considerably more abuse.

[topsites]

Other things I have personally noticed...

It would appear synthetic oil does not suffer from molecular decomposition over time.

Dino oil, even if the engine is left sitting with freshly changed oil and it is never run...
After 3-4 maybe six months that oil is gone, even thou at first check it still looks good.
But start the engine and run it to normal operating temperature, then shut it down and check the dipstick: Black as soot.
The oil is no good, it has to be changed immediately.

Synthetic, I've left engines sit for six months to a year and longer before...
They start up, I can run them for hours, check the dipstick and there's hardly any color change.

So it appears synthetic oil suffers only from the usual contamination that comes from running an engine.
Once it gets to a certain color it still has to be changed, depends on the machine.
Thus I also change oil in most of my machines once a year, again it depends on the machine.
This alone defrays some of the cost thou, in addition to the 'insurance' it provides against seizing.