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  #31  
Old 02-05-2014, 09:25 AM
rlitman rlitman is online now
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Originally Posted by twomancrew View Post
97 Jeep with the sixer has a solid mounted tensioner. Adjustment is made at the PS pump and not by spring. Prolly most of the 4L I6 Chryslers are that way but I couldn't tell ya for sure. It's not uncommon.
'01 TJ has the spring.

Glad to hear a new belt did the trick. Replacing a failing idler was worthwhile anyway. Belts are not the place to pinch pennies. I mean, now much more is a Gates or Goodyear over an econo belt anyway?
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  #32  
Old 02-05-2014, 10:30 AM
twomancrew twomancrew is offline
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Originally Posted by rlitman View Post
'01 TJ has the spring.

Glad to hear a new belt did the trick. Replacing a failing idler was worthwhile anyway. Belts are not the place to pinch pennies. I mean, now much more is a Gates or Goodyear over an econo belt anyway?
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Our F-250 it was $19 vs $80. We went cheapo route.
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  #33  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:45 AM
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inzane inzane is online now
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13 bucks more for gates belt. I wasnt given an option first time i went to get a belt. Never knew any better anyway. I thought a belt was a belt. Evidently not.. Ive been out all day, definetly noise free!

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Originally Posted by rlitman View Post
'01 TJ has the spring.


Glad to hear a new belt did the trick. Replacing a failing idler was worthwhile anyway. Belts are not the place to pinch pennies. I mean, now much more is a Gates or Goodyear over an econo belt anyway?
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  #34  
Old 02-05-2014, 11:52 AM
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Valk Valk is offline
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Glad you're fixed up!

Side-point:
Is there any point in using belt dressing on a serpentine belt? I'm not seeing the need since the area of contact/grip is completely different...and there shouldn't be any slippage to begin with, right?
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  #35  
Old 02-05-2014, 12:16 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is offline
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Originally Posted by Valk View Post
Glad you're fixed up!

Side-point:
Is there any point in using belt dressing on a serpentine belt? I'm not seeing the need since the area of contact/grip is completely different...and there shouldn't be any slippage to begin with, right?
Sometimes. Some belts have a glazing. Sometimes dressing Fix's it sometimes a shot of lubricant does
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  #36  
Old 02-05-2015, 07:05 PM
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inzane inzane is online now
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how long is a serpentine belt supposed to last? 1 year later to the day, sound was back.. not as bad.. but annoying as all get out. I removed belt brushed off all pully's again.. i had a belt dressing type of stuff in a can i sprayed which made things worse. I broke down and bought one of those goodyear gatorback belts. It did the trick as i'm noise free again. i noticed this belt was much tighter fitting than the old one. I guess they stretch out over time? I dunno much about this. I wonder if i'll be back again in 2016 with the same problem. in any case.. truck sounds better than the day i got it now with that gatorback belt.. I have always had problems with this truck and the squeaky serpentine belt since day one. I took it back a week after i got it and they had changed the belt. i remember that.. IF i have to get a new belt every year to get rid of the noise, then so be it.. but could there be another problem i should look for that is causing a belt problem? the belt i took off that was 1 year old still looked pretty dang new.
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  #37  
Old 02-05-2015, 09:53 PM
rlitman rlitman is online now
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There are three styles of serpentine belt systems.

1) The newest type is a stretch belt. These use EPDM belts (a different rubber than most belts). These require special tools and methods to install, and wear differently. They have no tension system, as the belt stretch takes care of tension, and you need a special (cheap plastic though) groove gauge to tell when they're worn out.

2) Automatic tensioner. These use a spring loaded or hydraulic tensioner, generally with a built in gauge to tell you when the belt is overstretched.

3) Manual tensioner. The old school method. This is probably what you're dealing with.
Either you adjust the position of an idler puller, or the alternator pivots, or something like that.
With a manually tensioned belt, the FSM will list two tensions to shoot for. The first will be the tension for a new unstretched belt. The second will be the tension for a broken in belt. They expect you to start out a new belt very tight, and as it stretches, it gets better. Since the distance between all the pulleys stayed fixed, as the belt stretches, tension drops, leading to squeaks. This type may need tension adjusted after a year (especially if a newly installed belt was only brought up to the broken in tension numbers).
For manual tensioning, it can be difficult to guess the correct belt tension. Manuals may often say that a certain amount of force (twisting or pushing) on a specific belt leg should result in a specific deflection. That's ok, but I really prefer to set it with my tension gauge. Done that way, I have not had issues.

As for belt lifetime. OEM belts should last for years. Cheap belts often fail in under a year. I've had good luck with Goodyear, Gates and Dayco. Nothing else.
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