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  #11  
Old 08-01-2013, 09:09 PM
grassmasterswilson grassmasterswilson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oomkes View Post
ProDeuce has worked pretty well for us. Mixed with Finale.
Getting good control at the 3oz per 1000 rate? Finale used to speed up kill? I'm using a solo backpack sprayer.
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  #12  
Old 08-02-2013, 01:58 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassmasterswilson View Post
Doc

In years past I've tried to apply a prodiamine/gly/surfactant mix from a solo backpack sprayer. Now my rates could be off or the ability to cover the entire bed with this mix could be the culprit. Or maybe lack of agitation. I would mix this and spray or spot spray from feb-April while with the mowing crew.

By the time July/aug I start to see nut grass, some crab, spurge, and some broadleafs.

As part of our mowing we include spot spraying beds and it is one of my biggest complaints from people.

So if any of you guys care to share how to make gly "hotter" I'm all ears!! Better yet if you have a tested mix for prevention them that may also save me some money. Could be a very good add on once we can show the results to customers.
Prodiamine is only good for crabgrass, if it is applied at high rates. My preemergent program involves spraying the entire bed with preemergent only against grassy and broadleaves. I switch between Dimension+Gallery, Ronstar, then Specticle. I preemerge every 3 months, 12 months out of the year. I do not want to worry about getting a mix on or near the shrubs. That is applied through a power sprayer with good agitation, volume and pressure. Then, emerged weeds are hit with what will kill them fast. I use diquat for broadleaves, sethoxydim for grass, Certainty for sedge. I found out that Dismiss has been labeled for use as a directed spray under ornamentals this year. I will be trying that out because kyllinga and nutsedge are the only weeds breaking through my preemergent. It would also be good to have another option for weed burndown around shrubs. Sorry to say that weed control in beds is not something I like to see delegated to mowing crews. If good weed control is what is desired, there has to be people on the staff that do nothing but treat weeds.

I just got word from the DOA that there is a grassy weed that is now tolerant of glyphosate. Funny thing is, that I knew about that weed for a long time now. It infests farmland and nursery areas. Ignorant growers use RoundUp for everything.
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  #13  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:03 PM
brown thumb brown thumb is offline
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Last couple of years I have been promoting the practice of fully filling up beds with perennials to help squeeze out weeds. While up front costs can be large, I tell customers it will save on mulch and chemical use.

A good bed won't allow encroachment of weeds, what weeds do manage to show up are reduced to bonsai size as they can't compete with mature sight specific perennials...namely native grasses/forbs/legumes.
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  #14  
Old 08-02-2013, 02:27 PM
Mark Oomkes Mark Oomkes is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grassmasterswilson View Post
Getting good control at the 3oz per 1000 rate? Finale used to speed up kill? I'm using a solo backpack sprayer.
I believe that is about the rate we use. If we are mixing with ProDeuce, we go a little less. Cooler temps a little higher.

Finale--IMHO--is a far better product than glyphosate. I need to take some pics of horsetail that was sprayed about 2 months ago with Finale, still brown as can be. Nice thing is it works on those weeds that plain glyphosate will not, such as horsetail.

Best mix we ever used way back when was Finale and Pennant. Usually had pretty much season long control with that.
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  #15  
Old 08-02-2013, 05:32 PM
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Florida Gardener Florida Gardener is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brown thumb View Post
Last couple of years I have been promoting the practice of fully filling up beds with perennials to help squeeze out weeds. While up front costs can be large, I tell customers it will save on mulch and chemical use.

A good bed won't allow encroachment of weeds, what weeds do manage to show up are reduced to bonsai size as they can't compete with mature sight specific perennials...namely native grasses/forbs/legumes.
This right here. Cheap homeowners or ignorant ones or both will put a couple of plants in a large bed then have weed issues all the time. If more people did what you described, there would be less need for chemicals. Only problematic weeds in a tight bed are water loving ones in which there is
overwatering....namely dollarweed, creeping dayflower,
and dichondra
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2013, 01:51 AM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Oomkes View Post
I believe that is about the rate we use. If we are mixing with ProDeuce, we go a little less. Cooler temps a little higher.

Finale--IMHO--is a far better product than glyphosate. I need to take some pics of horsetail that was sprayed about 2 months ago with Finale, still brown as can be. Nice thing is it works on those weeds that plain glyphosate will not, such as horsetail.

Best mix we ever used way back when was Finale and Pennant. Usually had pretty much season long control with that.
Pennant lasts long enough and works really well in sandy loam with low organic matter. Average daily temperatures also play a role in longevity. In my hot, high organic matter clay soils, Pennant lasts about 45 days. It does do something for yellow nutsedge and other sedges germinating from seed. However, it is State RUP, groundwater pollutant in Hawaii. No Dual Magnum here either.

Only thing that stops me from going Finale is the cost. I get calls to burn down acreage. Reward + Goal is about 1/8 the cost. You need a lot of Finale per acre or per gallon if hand spraying vs 1/2 oz per gallon of Reward, 32 oz per acre.
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2013, 09:17 PM
underESTIMATED underESTIMATED is offline
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This thread is full of wealth and knowledge.

Ive been using ProDuece around my house to kill the tree line and it seems to be taking longer than Roundup QuickPro usuallly did. Even mixed slightly higher than 3oz per gallon.
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