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#1
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Overseeding Question
As most of us know, if we are going to overseed it is best to do it in fall/spring. the question i had though, depending on the area you live in, what would the ideal temps be when overseeding? because september temps here in missouri could be different than september temps across the country. Also, as i see it there are two good ways to overseed. One, to aerate and then spread seed or two, use a slit seeder. Either way, i see them both being good ways. Another question, what would be ideal for a new lawn that is NOT established? slit seeding or aerating?
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#2
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Google the kind of grass that you want to grow's germination specs.
Ezample KBG needs a soil temp of 50 and a day time temp of 70 for 14 days. So when the 10 day weather forecast says when night time air temp will not go below 50 do you know soil temp can't be colder and day time will be at least 70 you know you can seed. |
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#3
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I sold my slice seeder a few years ago. On an existing lawn we aerate 2 times. We drop seed before we aerate, hit it and drop seed again. Lawns come in the balls!
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#4
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When I aerate thin areas in the fall, I do several passes to really chew up the ground, then I rake it smooth, apply the seed , then rake it in...
when I fix bare areas I use a 'garden weasel', compost and rake the seed in... if I have a large area that just needs seed, I'll get a slit-seeder...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#5
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basically you drop seed, then aerate, drop seed, and aerate again then your done? what about covering up with top soil/ compost? is it not necessary since the aeration put the seed straight down in the holes? and you didn't find that slit seeding works well?
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#6
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Without seeing the lawn you describe as not established I would not want to give you the idea either method would work properly. You forgot to add Top dressing the lawn. Without a soil sample test result you might just be spinning your wheels trying to over seed. First and foremost of any seeding is a soil test then make your amendments to the soil if needed to support the seed you are sowing. On the lawn you describe it might be possible the lawn did not establish itself because the soil was not up to par and just over seeding a lawn does not guarantee the new seed will grow either. Check the soils and make that right first. If this lawn is so thin like I am seeing in my mind Consider topdressing. IMO Slit seeding and aerating seeding is just used primarily to maintain lawns not establish them.
Here in the northern regions and where I live I found that year by year weather has changed enough to play games with seeding. Some springs are hot and dry like this year started out as while other years the fall is colder and wetter than normal. This doesn't help you much I know but take into consideration germination times of the seed your using and go from there. While spring would be more ideal time for seeding as you are coming out of the cold into temperate weather fall or a early fall seeding can also be worth while with a little help from you over seeing the project. Just do not seed so late that you risk a die off from freeze to the tender new grass. I also would consider if the lawn is as sparse as I think it is Hydro seeding it just to help with keeping moisture in the ground. I like dry seeding and raking it in and also mixing seed into the load of mulch. Sort of a double whammy. This method always works great for me. These opinions are just mine I hate to be condemned for a opinion. Ive been doing things this way for close to 45 years or so and yes things have changes and methods too. These ways served me well for all these years and I still will live by them. |
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#7
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I contend that if you seed first--and--then aerate --the soil brought up from the cores will cover the seed with soil. Exactly what the seed needs. And perhaps a bit of dragging will break up the cores and push a few seeds into the holes. (Which may be too deep to result in satisfactory germination.) Do you really want the seed in the holes?
Is anyone willing to try seeding before and after aeration... in a side by side comparison? About how may seeds would normally fall into the open holes? Has anybody ever tried to count? Kentucky bluegrass has about 2 million seeds per pound so... |
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#8
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The problem with aeration vs. slit seeding is , even distribution...
When you drag the plugs, you'll not likely get even distribution, but you will get better coverage(over the seed)... if you don't drag you're likely to end up with the doll hair effect, which may or may not survive the growing season... I must admit that many of my dollhair seedlings from last Fall's aeration, continue to live... if they spread out with rhizomes at the end of this season(even survive), I'll be required to change my comments...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#9
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i drop aerate w/ a 50% overlap, so essentially aerating the whole lawn 2 times, then drop seed again. This is on existing lawns, Im in the fertilization buisness no need for me to topdress. Lawns come out awesome we do it on millions of sq ft in Sept and the lawns rock.
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1-Z-plugger 1-lawnsolutions aerator wb 1-Bluebird 48 tow behind 1-Z-Spray Int 1-Permagreen Mag 4-backpackmistblowers 1-Four Wheeler with 50ft air blast mist sprayer 1-F-250 4x4 supercab p/u 1-E-250 van 1-E-150 van 2-landscape trailers a ton of backpack sprayers |
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