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  #21  
Old 10-28-2013, 07:16 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
Please, elaborate.........I got time!
Me 4.
I picked a heck of a time to get busy....
Cmon.....learn us up on how elongating the spark plug gap is gonna shorten the life of the plug and the coil....
Man.....to think....I almost missed this mind expanding thread......
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  #22  
Old 10-30-2013, 09:56 AM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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I once had a plug fail on my tiller.

The ceramic part separated from the metal base and could be moved up and down by about 1/8". This was a Champion plug. It wasn't that old but taken out / refitted many times, perhaps I overtightened it.

The engine made a weird hissing/pinging sound but ran.
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  #23  
Old 10-30-2013, 10:11 AM
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Ditta&Sons Ditta&Sons is offline
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It took more time to read this thread than it would take to actually change the plug....just change the damn plug
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  #24  
Old 10-30-2013, 10:29 AM
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jkilov jkilov is offline
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Agreed for trimmers and mowers, but it's also true that some cars, trucks and other machines may have plugs that are very very difficult to access.
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  #25  
Old 10-30-2013, 11:04 AM
rlitman rlitman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkilov View Post
Agreed for trimmers and mowers, but it's also true that some cars, trucks and other machines may have plugs that are very very difficult to access.
Sure, but the original question was, is it ok to inspect the plug, fix the gap and put it back into service.

What you're saying is, can you just increase the plug change interval if you can't easily get to the plugs. The answer to that is platinum, or double-platinum, or iridium, etc.
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  #26  
Old 10-30-2013, 11:54 AM
herler herler is offline
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I never "re-gap" a plug, matter of fact I rarely pull one knowing I'm just going to put the same plug back in.
Doesn't make no sense, I see a lot of people doing it but why pull an old part just to re-install it?
Way I see things I'm already involved in the labor of removing and installing it so I might as well put a brand new one in.

Simple rule: If I pull a plug, I replace it.

But I do gap them .005 short so if it calls for .030 I gap it .025 and that makes them last as long as it can.
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  #27  
Old 10-31-2013, 10:09 PM
dboyd351 dboyd351 is online now
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This thread is the most amusing thing I've seen all day.
Don't forget about the spark plug seized in the head. Sounds to me like the OP is very worried about stripping out the threads and that's the real reason he doesn't want to change the plug.
Perhaps some advice on using a torque wrench is in order, since the "educated wrist" seems to be missing from this equation.
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  #28  
Old 11-02-2013, 02:00 PM
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rob7233 rob7233 is offline
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Okay, I'll say it. I for one was impressed with his answer.
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  #29  
Old 11-02-2013, 02:17 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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I change them regularly as it makes the engine start easier. Less aggravation and less wear on starters and recoil assemblies.
Posted via Mobile Device
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  #30  
Old 11-14-2013, 12:29 AM
updara updara is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herler View Post

But I do gap them .005 short so if it calls for .030 I gap it .025 and that makes them last as long as it can.
I heard that you can fry your coil by having them to close together? just something i've heard, wondering if anyone else had any input on this. only thing i have that is lenient is my weedeater, which says gap between 24-28, so i just play the middle and pick 26, but i've always put it at 30, if it says 30, 45 if it says 45, etc. because i've heard, what i mentioned above. i can agree with you're saying, because it's closer, therefore meaning their is more of it to be "eaten" away before it gets to what it's supposed to be, in your case 30, you've got the .5 for it to "eat" through till it gets to the 30, meaning longer run time.
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