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  #11  
Old 08-24-2013, 11:21 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Next 3 days close to 100 degrees with only heat related T-Storms as a possible source of moisture... I won't be able to irrigate much, if at all and the sandy terraces have me nervous... but I've done all I could and now we'll see the survival rate... The fertilizer was put down about 3 weeks ago now and the color has been getting progressively darker with each watering along with the cool nites and pleasant days...

No seed has been started yet,,, so only the fertilizer was off to an early Fall with NO adverse consequences,,, yet...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2013, 01:04 PM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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Reminder: raise height of cut or skip mowing altogether this week. I am sure you know that. I find verbalizing it helps keep one calm as the plan for the week ahead develops. Think of me: I need to persuade a guy who has been mowing the same football field for FORTY years to raise his deck not just this week but from now on. And, yes sir I *did* notice that you did not raise it from 2 1/4 from last week as promised
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2013, 03:15 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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I didn't mow last week in anticipation of this coming week so right now it may look long and kind of shabby... We'll see what's left by Wednesday morning...

Good luck with the football field...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #14  
Old 08-29-2013, 05:17 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Well the heat is winding down but still not great... no irrigation at all, due to an affliction and our rain amount is just over 1/2 inch that came later last weekend...
As noted earlier the lawns weren't mowed,,, even though they looked a bit shabby at this time last week,,, and today do not look as though they need mowing at all... Not brown, yet not growing either,,, just shrinking back and conserving water in light of the heat and rather tough sunny days and dessicating winds at least 5 of the past 7 days...
These surviving lawns have received apps of both organic and synferts, at the proper time in their growth cycle... Nothing , by way of ferts,, early in Spring or approaching the heat of Summer... mulch mow only with a rather thick layer of dead thatch building up on the turf... molasses was applied during the heat of Summer and I think another app of that would be called for when I put down the Milorganite , next week...

The Squirt&Fert Lawns would not come close to this level of survivability w/out automatic and constant irrigation... I'm surprised that the organic forum doesn't have more to say about growing mature lawns this way... Oh Well...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #15  
Old 09-15-2013, 09:49 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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We finally got some real rain and it is likely that the intense heat is over... Lawns w/out irrigation yet had the full programs of Squirt&Fert look terrible... although many of my lawns have had the sickly bluish tint due to dehydration I don't believe many areas have actually died...
Next step is to Spread the Milorganite for some lawns and a synfert Winterizer for others,,, and mowed short for easy leaf removal and overseed...
No special organic products needed,,, except I do have one lawn that is so sandy that grass doesn't grow with water,,, moss does... It is a high traffic area,,, so no other plants will work and they'll play on the dirt if necessary... compost has had limited success and focused sprinklers don't do much... next Spring annual ryegrass will be used to fill-in these troublesome areas...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #16  
Old 09-18-2013, 08:50 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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In spite of all the heat and lack of adequate moisture the grass ended up with ONLY 2 small areas that allow CG in... I will take care of those 2 spots with a bit of compost and a small amount of seed... Otherwise I believe that I am looking at a mature lawn that is able to live in the shade with minimal amounts of survival sprinkling...
Next Step AFTER the "Bridge Program" is full time organic maintenance...

In late Spring,,, an app. of 1/2 lbs of N and broadleaf Spot Spraying,,, before the Summer heat... After Summer Heat another 1/2 lbs. of N... Now that Fall is here 1 lbs. of N ,,, from Milorganite,,, and some additional Spot Spraying until the turf is full enough to prevent new weeds... That is difficult with shade but some areas have stopped weed germination already...

The natural development of mature stands of turf is what "Organics" should be about... We seem to have gone into the notion that "Organics" means buying organic products, that are more expensive while being less reliable... not for me...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #17  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:41 AM
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foreplease foreplease is offline
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On your side is that crabgrass does not grow well in the shade. Pre-emergents for CG are not recommended in heavily shaded lawns or sections of lawns.
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